Quote:
Originally Posted by Anti_venomSS
Aw man I don't want to be a ricer with a loud bov  Thanks for the response! What do you mean it caused knock?
Also, 2 questions - Has the catch can helped with the oil issue? Why did you go with 1 7/8 and not 2" LTH? |
I wouldn't say it sounds like a ricer by any means. Imagine a lear jet taking off when you're 2 or 3k RPM and holding. Then floor it and the bypass snaps shut and all you hear is the exhaust and the procharger spooling. Let off and it opens the bypass and that rushing lear jet sound returns until you drop down below 2k RPM.
The other alternative is just go with stock procharger bypass valve. That one is quiet but just be absolutely sure about it. Research it, etc because many have regretted they didn't go with the race bypass.
So regarding the KR I was getting. I have a smaller 3.7 pulley on my P1 so my boost was almost 11lbs at redline. Not sure how efficient the P1 is at that boost level but I bet if you went with the D1 you'd be starting off on the right foot. I believe the way it works is the additional boost creates more heat and so my timing had to be dialed back quite a bit to resolve a few degrees of knock at the top. My tuner said if I eliminate the cats it will drop the boost down a bit but the LT's would more than make up for that with better timing and better efficiency in getting the air in and out of the motor. They really woke up the top end very noticeably.
I went with the 1 7/8's because I wanted 600-650 and felt the 2in were just overkill for my power level and also didn't want to run into any chance of rubbing the steering column. I also wanted to retain a little low end torque. If my goal was 800+, there would be no doubt that 2in is the way to go.
The Oil catch can is a must once you see the amount it catches and be sure to either go with a metco valve cover breather or a vented catch can so you don't blow out the front lower crank seal.