[oldman]

For a DD, my general guidelines are 100K miles with minimum maintenance, drive like I stole it, less than 10% chance of critical failure. As an example, I'm on my 3rd set of rear tires in 16K miles. I don't "burn out", this wear is all from WOT thru the gears. I estimate I've done 1000 thru the gear runs, and 4000+ 1, 2nd, 3rd blast.

I know for sure that my stage 1 cam should have: new trunions and pushrods now, and every 20K I should check and / or just replace the valve springs. Call me paranoid but I lived thru the LS1 valvetrain issues, don't want to repeat them here.

Given my expectations, under the conditions listed, I would say the stock short block is marginal even at my 7 PSI build (low boost but a fully modified engine in terms of air movement). 600 WHP (about).

Same would go if I want the stage 0+ to stage 1- NA route. 6800 RPM, a VVT compatible cam, ported heads, maybe something like the OEM LS7 spring, I would say is the limit for the short block for my above DD. For a stage 1+ or bigger cam say to stage 2, 7000 to 7200 RPM, I'd change the rod bolts. For stage 2+ to stage 3, I would only consider a fully forged and blueprinted short bock. I'm also sure the vast majority of people out there with stage 2+ cams are on the factory short block 7000 + with NO issues.... for me I would at least do the rod bolts, probably because labor is free to me and they are not that hard to change.

Yes very conservative. But I've been building and driving street cars for a long time. A factory powdered metal rod is not something I'd put over 700 WHP on, and even there I honestly think it WILL have a higher that 10% failure rate over 100K miles the way I drive.... I know I should just get a stock ZL1 and have Chevy provide me the warranty... LOL