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Elite Engineering · 02-15-2018, 03:57 PM

To properly seat the low tension rings ALL new engine come with, it is essential to do so in that first 100 or so mile, if not, you stand a good chance the hard glaze will set in covering the abrasive cross hatch hone pattern cut into the cylinder walls and you will join the "Why is my new car using oil?" crowd.

GM's instructions for techs and replacement engines is the correct way, and the only reason you are told to take it easy is the liability exposure and has nothing to do with whats best for your engine. So, here it is:

After several heat cycles the first 50 miles, driven varying RPM's, you check all fluid levels as well as for any leaks, you want to SAFELY on a back road from a roll in second gear (approximately 20-25 MPH, do NOT lug the engine) and full throttle to 4500 RPM and allow the engine to brake the car back down to the rolling start MPH and repeat to 5,000 RPM 4-5 more times. The rings will now be seated as good as possible as it it is critical these first miles to load the piston rings evenly through both acceleration and deceleration. Change oil and filter as soon as possible and only run a good full synthetic from this stage on. NEVER leave the factory fill oil in more than 500 miles as this oil is full of assembly debris, iron and other metal filings from ring seating, and a higher than average amount of raw fuel as this accelerates wear and as many have read or seen, rod bearing failures may result.

Also, the very thin weights of oil the owners manual states are NOT the best for your engine. They are only specified to allow the specific vehicle to meet CAFE fuel economy standards. As is the case with all GDI engines, there is many times the raw fuel wash-down that enters the crankcase contaminating and further thinning the oil and a heavier weight oil will help to offset the fuel dilution and better protect the moving parts.

Adding an Elite E2-X catchcan system that provides full time crankcase evacuation will remove most of this before it has a chance to settle and dilute the engine oil. Want to do a simple test to see for yourself? Pull the dipstick and smell your oil shortly after shut down. Smell that gasoline? And why is it so strong? The fuel in a GDI engine is introduced at 2,000-3,000 PSI and this forces far more past the piston rings than past port injection engines with the fuel introduced at 45-55 PSI. Now install the E2-X system and drive a few days and do the same. Where did that fuel contamination go? Drain the can and it is trapped in our 95% plus effective separation design. You will find the average make up of what we extract from your PCV vapors that otherwise would be ingested is 17% water and acids. 23% raw fuel, and 7% oil saturated with abrasive particulate matter.

The oil we recommend? Amsoil 5w50 Signature Series for all GDI engines, especially those that will be run hard.

Take these steps and watch the results.

02-15-2018, 03:57 PM	#17
Elite Engineering Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Denver Posts: 1,383	To properly seat the low tension rings ALL new engine come with, it is essential to do so in that first 100 or so mile, if not, you stand a good chance the hard glaze will set in covering the abrasive cross hatch hone pattern cut into the cylinder walls and you will join the "Why is my new car using oil?" crowd. GM's instructions for techs and replacement engines is the correct way, and the only reason you are told to take it easy is the liability exposure and has nothing to do with whats best for your engine. So, here it is: After several heat cycles the first 50 miles, driven varying RPM's, you check all fluid levels as well as for any leaks, you want to SAFELY on a back road from a roll in second gear (approximately 20-25 MPH, do NOT lug the engine) and full throttle to 4500 RPM and allow the engine to brake the car back down to the rolling start MPH and repeat to 5,000 RPM 4-5 more times. The rings will now be seated as good as possible as it it is critical these first miles to load the piston rings evenly through both acceleration and deceleration. Change oil and filter as soon as possible and only run a good full synthetic from this stage on. NEVER leave the factory fill oil in more than 500 miles as this oil is full of assembly debris, iron and other metal filings from ring seating, and a higher than average amount of raw fuel as this accelerates wear and as many have read or seen, rod bearing failures may result. Also, the very thin weights of oil the owners manual states are NOT the best for your engine. They are only specified to allow the specific vehicle to meet CAFE fuel economy standards. As is the case with all GDI engines, there is many times the raw fuel wash-down that enters the crankcase contaminating and further thinning the oil and a heavier weight oil will help to offset the fuel dilution and better protect the moving parts. Adding an Elite E2-X catchcan system that provides full time crankcase evacuation will remove most of this before it has a chance to settle and dilute the engine oil. Want to do a simple test to see for yourself? Pull the dipstick and smell your oil shortly after shut down. Smell that gasoline? And why is it so strong? The fuel in a GDI engine is introduced at 2,000-3,000 PSI and this forces far more past the piston rings than past port injection engines with the fuel introduced at 45-55 PSI. Now install the E2-X system and drive a few days and do the same. Where did that fuel contamination go? Drain the can and it is trapped in our 95% plus effective separation design. You will find the average make up of what we extract from your PCV vapors that otherwise would be ingested is 17% water and acids. 23% raw fuel, and 7% oil saturated with abrasive particulate matter. The oil we recommend? Amsoil 5w50 Signature Series for all GDI engines, especially those that will be run hard. Take these steps and watch the results.