Quote:
Originally Posted by IH8WNTR
no Bose system. Its a 1ss 1le so no amp to tie into or anything. I got constant power from the battery with an inline fuse but the fuse tap would be easier if i was to do it again. Remote power/signal for the sub comes from the line output converter. The spliced rear speaker wires are tied into the sub harness and the loc.
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I have a 1LE as well, after doing mine you may want to change up your install slightly. The rear speakers are crossed over and run a reduced range, the front door speakers are the only ones that received a full range signal. I tapped into both of those and ran them back to the trunk for my Kicker amp.
I did the same thing as you, removed the foam piece and mounted a piece of board to the floor and the amp to that board, used a high level converter to pull the signal down and am powering a JL Audio Stealth sub.