Anyone tried Speed Engineering Stock Manifold X-Pipe?
 

Anyone one tried this Speed Engineering X Pipe? I know it was talks about something like this a long while back.

https://speed-engineering.com/collec...16-6-2l-engine

There is a thread in the ZL1 section where a few have used it. You will likely have to remove the cross brace or shim it so it doesn't hit. Not a huge deal...

Thanks King. I haven't been in the Camaro Pages as much since my ZL1 got totaled almost a year ago. I'm back in the Vette forum as that was the replacement.

I ran it on my C7 but it was with their 1 7/8 long tubes. Love them.

Our cars come with a factory X-pipe....whats the difference?

I just got this system. I'm planning on installing it Monday or Tuesday. I'm taking recordings of my current system (stock everything except second cat delete from muffler shop) for a record of sounds change. I'll try to post videos and/or recordings. I'll let you know how the install goes.

Sending you a PM

That would be perfect, please do. Also let use know if there are fitment issues and what not.

Sure will buddy. 👍

It eliminates the secondary cats, the AFM valves and the crushed area and is 3 inch pipe versus 2.75 pipe.

Looks like the same kit as Borla stopped making- the 60606. I’m in. If anyone has pics of the first connection point please post up….thanks

Tests were done online with a Dyno cutting out the crushed area and replacing it with round pipe. Had no increase at all in performance.

So I started the install of these pipes. I started this afternoon and worked on it for about an hour. Then had to take my boy to the tutor. I then started at 8 and stopped at 10. I got everything linked up, but I'm going to finish bolting all the clamps up tomorrow. I'm tired. However, if I started in the am I would have finished it today.

Side note-Speed Engineering sent me the kit for the headers instead of the manifolds, but I got the 2 manifold delivered the next day. Although they initially shipped the wrong kit, but immediately shipped the 2 pipes before I knew they messed up. I won't hold it against them. Since now I have the pipes for when I get their headers, when the wife says I can. HaHa.

I did this install myself in my garage on my back-ouch I'm hurting. Here are the things I did that worked and didn't work.

Removal of stock exhaust.
I backed my car up on ramps and jacked up the front with 2 jacks, then used 2 stands.
1. I unclipped the o2 sensor and then unbolted the sensor.
2. Take the nuts of the 2 bolts on the passenger side by the cat.
3. Unbolt the 5 bolts holding a bracket in the middle of the exhaust system.
4. I then cut the pipes by the muffler-I cut it under the metal cross member right in the middle. About half an inch to an inch after the crushed pipe. I first tried the sawzall, but i was only able to cut a little since the cross member got in my way. I then tried a Dremel which worked 80% around, but again the cross member was too close to the pipe. I then rented a exhaust cutter from advance auto. And bought hanger pliers. The exhaust cutter took minutes to cut both pipes.
5. I used the exhaust cutter and cut the pipe on the driver's side by the cat--I had a shop weld on pipes to delete the second cat.
6. Then used 2 other jack stands I have to hold up the driver's side pipe and the middle of the exhaust.
7. I then used the hanger pliers and removed/unclipped the exhaust from them. Either hanger will work.
8. I then used a jack to hold up the muffler and unclipped those hangers too. I let the muffler drop a little and hang just below the pipes where I cut them. This allowed me to move the whole exhaust back to get the passenger side out from the bolts by the cat.
9. Dropped the exhaust and removed from under the vehicle.

Install of Speed Engineering pipes. DON'T TIGHTEN ANY CLAMPS, KEEP THE PIPES LOSE FOR FITMENT
1. I first made sure everything fit together without difficulty. Everything did except the passenger side manifold pipe to the x-pipe. I used a flat head screwdriver in one of the 4 slits in the pipe to get one edge over the pipe. Easy peasy. Bolt the O2 sensor onto the passenger side pipe.

Note: you may (probably) have to loosen 6 nuts in the back of the muffler behind the rear bumper to allow movement of the whole exhaust to the rear to get all the pipes into their connecting pipes.

2. I jacked up the muffler and hung it on one hanger for now.
3. Put the connectors onto the muffler pipe with the 2.75 inch clamp. There are 2 of these and 6- 3 inch ones.
4. Put the 2 pipes with the hangers on them into their respective spots with the 2 clamps and hang them on the hangers.
5. Put the driver's side pipe on with the included clamp-i think it's 2.5 inches, but I'll check tomorrow. I used a stand to hold up the opposite end of the pipe to not stress the connection by the cat.
6. Put the passenger side pipe into the x-pipe(this was the one I had trouble with fitment, but again I used the flathead screwdriver and it took 2 seconds).
7. Put the x-pipe into the 2 pipes connected to the muffler and push the whole system back to get the front of the passenger side pipe to align the holes with the bolts. --SEE NOTE ABOVE--
8. Then put the driver's side pipe into the x-pipe.

You should now be connected from front to back. This is where I stopped tonight and I will clamp everything up tomorrow.

I'll probably start with the 6 nuts behind the rear bumper to get the muffler back to where it was before. Then put the nuts back on the passenger side. Then clamp the driver's side pipe and then the rest of them. I heard a tech with Speed Engineering say to REALLY tighten the clamps, so I'm going to wrench on them hard.

Tools you may need:
Hanger pliers
O2 sensor socket
Exhaust cutter from auto store
13mm-bracket in the middle of stock system
15mm-nuts on passenger side by the cat
16mm-bolts to the clamps from S.E.
As many jack stands and jacks you can get, I used 2 jacks and 4 stands.

I'll post again tomorrow. Hopefully with some pics, but Camaro6 does not have the best system for unloading pictures.

Night guys.

That may be true, but overall a 3 inch mid pipe section that eliminates the secondary cats , the AFM valves and the crushed area will out flow the OE mid pipe section. At some point, more flow equals more power.

True but they didn't eliminate the AFM section just the crushed section. If you measure the AFM section is actually the second smallest section of the exhaust next to the entrance on the primary cat pipes. So deleting the crimp section wouldn't gain anything if the section of pipe ahead of it is more restrictive yet.