Anyone use Stainless Steel Brake Pistons in OEM Brake Calipers?
 

Good afternoon!

I picked up a 23 ZL1 1LE and am planning on tracking it. I have a fair amount of track experience in other cars (C6 Z06, GT350R, Civic Type R, 350Z, Mercedes 190E16V, RX8)

I am trying to do everything possible with the OEM brakes so that they can hold up with extended track time at Road America (My home track)

I have already purchased GIRO DISC front rotors and Hawk DT70 front and DTC60 rear brake pads. I plan on using Castrol SRF Brake Fluid with this setup. I also picked of Titanium brake shims for the front.

I stumbled across Racing Brake SS Brake piston upgrade (Remove factory brake pistons & seals and install these SS direct replacements) for our cars and I am wondering if anyone has used them and what the results are?

A couple benefits advertised with the kit I purchased:
1. SS Pistons (Stainless steel transmits heat at a rate of 10% v Aluminum)
2. The pistons are vented (Better heat dissipation)
3. High Temp Brake seals are included

I understand the factory brake setup is very good...just trying to help it cope with track time without issue. I think anything you can do to to keep excessive heat getting into the calipers is going to help...

Any feedback? Good idea? Bad idea?

If there are any negatives that I am missing, please let me know!!!

I don't have zle experience but the ss 1LE brakes are more than capable on the track. Just SRF fluid and carbotech pads I've ran 1 hour long sessions at VIR north driving hard without a single issue.

A few things to consider...

- With Girodisc rotors, you need to use the SS 1LE shape pad. The ZL1 pad will not fit due to the larger rotor hat on the Girodisc vs. OEM rotors
- Most folks run the vented pistons from the Z06. Part number is 19207043
- People have good feedback on the Racing Brake seals, but brake fluid is corrosive to them which turns some folks off. The OEM GM seals are very cheap and easy enough to swap that I see more folks replacing with OEM rather than the RB seals.

I ran the vented pistons in my stock 4 piston calipers and I also have them in the ZLE caliper now. I would say go for it. Road America is KILLER on the brakes so anything you can do to help.

Thanks for the responses everyone! I do have a set of the OEM vented pistons (19207043) sitting in the garage. I ordered the GM 19207043 vented pistons before I found these Stainless Steel pistons from Racing Brake. They are Stainless Steel and vented with High temp seals...I am hoping these are an upgrade even over the 19207043 pistons.

https://racingbrake.com/bz-61bsp/

I am going to try them in the ZL1 1LE and my Civic Type R (They make set for the Civic as well). I ran a 2021 FK8 Civic Type R last year at roughly 8 events and the brakes get very hot for a number of reasons. The front calipers chew through pads and get very discolored from the heat. I am picking up a 2023 FL5 Civic Type R which uses the same calipers as the previous model. I will install these SS pistons in the Civic and give it a try as well. I run both cars at Road America...

I will not be able to give any comparison vs. stock on the ZL1 1LE, but I hope they keep the brake fluid and calipers just a bit cooler...we will see. I will update if I have any problems. My brother runs a ZL1 1LE as well and has the stock caliper, set-up. I may put temp stickers on both of our calipers and see if there is a difference...

Also I would not recommend using 70s on fro t and 60s on the rear. Brake bias is already forward, and now you’re straining front calipers/rotors more. I’d recommend same compound on both.

I haven't heard of this before...every car I have tracked I have done a more aggressive compound up front than the rear. Is this specific to the ZL1 1LE? Or Camaros in general?
I will definitely look into this...
I guess I don't understand how the rear brakes would get hot enough to move a higher compound if the fronts are working so much harder?
Either way, thank you for the advice!

I have read multiple threads is that is the combination most guys are running.

I was going to swap them out also but the high temp boots had me thinking not a good idea snice they do t like brake fluid. Not like you should have fluid on them but when assembling if you just get some on them there done.

I disagree with this. There are LOTS of folks running DTC70 DTC60 combos and it works GREAT. 70% of your braking force is handled by the FRONT BRAKES anyway. You ALWAYS want the fronts to effectively engage PRIOR to the rears. In this case, the initial BITE of the DTC70 pad is a little bit SOONER and HARDER than with the DTC60 PAD .

If this is actually true, I would not recommend using the Girodisc rotors because the surface area of the SS 1LE front pad is smaller than the ZL1 front pad which would likely work in the opposite direction of your stated goal.

Ok Pad size is only ONE factor in an efficient braking system. The heat efficiency and weight make a huge difference as well. The Girodisc rotors disperse heat much better than stock ZL1 rotors and are 4 to 5 pounds lighter. The girodisc rotors I know for a FACT are beneficial. I did have the concern at first about the pad size being slightly smaller but I talked at length with one of the engineers that helped design the girodisc rotor. I decided I would give them a try and I am glad I did.

My SLE has ZLE front calipers, Giro rotors and stainless lines. I use Ferodo 3.12s in the front and 1.11s in the rear. Absolutely phenomenal brakes, zero issues. How good? When Randy Pobst drove it he said the brakes were "Incredible".

Ken

That was my point also. By increasing friction in the front and not in the rear you deposit more heat in the front rotor/caliper. And since the rear has less friction it’s more stress and heat for front hardware. Gyrodisc rotors help, but still something to consider for frequency of caliper rebuilds.