Collapsed lifter, again
 

This is a 2015 SS, Auto - L99

Wondering if anyone has any suggestions on what could be going on. A few months ago the number 6 cylinder had a collapsed lifter so I went ahead and replaced all of them. Last week, the number 1 cylinder had a collapsed lifter. After I took everything apart and finally pulled the lifter holder out, the lifter was the normal, expanded height. I replaced the lifter anyway and put the engine back together. The car starts up but always has a bad rattle sound upon starting and when initially stepping on the gas. The car does have long tube headers and no cats - although the cat sensors have never been turned off.
Also, the car went through about 3 quarts of oil in 2-3 months.

Could the new lifter have been defective? Could the AFM be faulty and that's why the new lifter was collapsed? Does the exhaust have any internal parts that would rattle badly if the cats were removed? Besides the headers it's a stock exhaust.

Man you went thru the trouble of tearing the heads off of it 2 times And replacing all the lifters once and didn’t do an afm delete? I’d delete it and be done if it was me. Is it the afm lifters giving you trouble or the normal lifter?

It's the AFM lifters. Gas mileage is a big issue which is why we kept the AFM.

Mama always said if you don’t have anything nice to say, don’t say it at all. But I never listened very well anyway. If gas mileage is a “big issue”, why ‘ell are you driving an SS Camaro? :facepalm:

My car gets better mileage with the afm off honestly.

I don't watch my mileage but man I've sure been a lot happier since plugging in the Range AFM Disabler.

:word:

I drive an auto as well. The first year I didn't do anything to the car just in case but after that had it tuned and AFM taken out and removed. With AFM I was getting 22 mpg and after having it removed I was getting 20-21 mpg with the same driving style. AFM does not improve mpg as much as you think.

I don’t always pay attention to it but when I do it’s normally 22ish. With the AFM on its normally around 20-21. I drive it in manual mode for now to disable it until I cam it and get afm deleted. My car doesn’t get babied, I drive it like an SS not a Prius. I honestly wouldn’t care if it got 10mpg like everything else I own, the skinny pedal is worth bad gas mileage to me.

Yep! That's why I bought the car. To drive it in the manner it was designed for.

I get 18.2 mpg with FBOs, 3200 converter and 3.91 gears...

Damn, I get 9.9mpg

And I am totally fine with that! Car go vrooom.

6,000 ft of elevation helps me out a lot with fuel mileage. No air, thus not as much fuel. I got 27 one time when I was coming back to New Mexico from Salt Lake City. That was with a couple 110+ mph romps between I70 and Moab. The 27 was calculated not from the DIC.

I can get good highway mileage but that's not how I drive anymore. The car is strictly a local around town ride now. When I was driving (uncammed) 120 miles round trip every day I was getting average 18mpg. But now I am rarely ever in 6th gear, or even 5th for that matter. TapShift 100% of the time doesn't help either.

I guess what hurts the most is when I fill the tank up and my Distance Till Empty shows 190 or less miles.

So no suggestions? I didn't mean for this to turn into a discussion on whether or not the have AFM.