3rd engine
 

So I now have my 2nd engine in my car needing to be replaced due to piston failure in cylinder 1. The first time this happened was at 2400 miles 2 months after I got the car. Now it just happened again at 44k miles, but the dealer is saying they wont cover it under warranty since I'm tuned, even though the service manager told me to my face that my tune and mods had nothing to do with the failure. So I've had some great luck with my car so far

Sorry to hear about your trouble. As it's the 2nd time you need engine replacement, I'm sure GM asked or will ask for the tune status and deny your claim, and if that's the case, I don't think the service manager has much leverage even if he wants to help.

Why did you get the car tuned? Do you have some power adders, were you trying to get rid of the A8 shudder or for some other reason? I'm only asking out of curiosity, since you didn't list any mods in your sig.

Same piston failed ? Same tune ?


Gotta pay to play.

Who tuned your car?

Real classy.

I believe he has basic bolt-ons supposedly first blown engine was 100% stock. A better question that needs to be asked is this. If it's the same cylinder 1 piston both times and there is no cylinder wall damage wouldn't it be cheaper at this point to just go forged considering the near $8500 a stealership would charge to just replace an engine you could probably get away with having it forged at a speed shop for half that. Also getting rid of the A8 shudder would only void the transmission and i'm willing to bet GM will soon be outed for this supposed tuning fix in 2019.

Engine 1 was stock (tune wise)
Engine 2 was tuned (i'll let Snowolf disclose info, don't wanna overstep boundaries)

I was telling him yesterday on IG; some of these LTGs are mint and have no problems whatsoever and some of them are crapping out for no reason. That really sucks man. I would find out, like Kevin said, if there is scoring or damage to the piston walls. If there is, unfortunately you're out of luck.

That $8500 is at least half for install and removal of the engine(s). If you can get away with grabbing some forged internals if there is no block damage, and if you wanna keep the car, go that route and it will save you some skrilla.

If same piston failed, i would load check wiring harness, specifically fueling side AND have injectors flow tested.


Reason being, you have one hole that was starved of fuel = melted bits, or opposite, too much fuel and wash down = failed rings.

I can only hope and pray my car makes it too 45k as it sits with the way I run it ROFL! OFC, I accepted that possibility when I tuned it with 6k miles on the clock. My thought was, and still is, catch "probable" LTG failure early with regular monitoring, go forged internals if no significant damage. There is a bright side too! Its really nice to change everything in your shopping cart built from a quantitiy of 8, to a quantity of 4 (throws me off everytime haha) When your pushing almost 200ft/lbs per liter, things are kinda high strung, and the LTG already has a hit or miss reputation. Id say you did pretty well:) Good luck with whatever you decide!

p.s. I won't say much on this forum for obvious reasons, but there is a recent trending issue with off the shelf crate LTG's. If you decide to get a new crate engine, make sure you don't get old stock, get it from the source. :)

OMG stop plugging your decent can with bad routing for the LTG.

Omg... Lol. I knew this was coming. "Your decent can with bad routing." I'm dying over here.

Happy i could brighten your day. I mean most people use the right oil or just default use the Mobil 1 most of the time.

I know right. Who gets the oil wrong? Thank you for the laughs. I like how you give him credit for the correct can Lol.

What oil were you running when the engines blew? Also, what component broke? ex: rings, piston crown damage...