Clutch Pedal Getting Stuck After WOT
 

My clutch is getting stuck/very stiff after a 2-3 wot pull where after going through the rpm range in 3rd, the clutch pedal is almost to the floor and pulling it out of 3rd takes some effort and a few pumps to get the pedal back to normal. The car drives great and normal at all other times. Clutch feels perfect at all other times. The only time I experience this problem, is after a longer gear wot pull (3rd or 4th) as it lets me shift into 3rd from 2nd fine and as fast as I want. Clutch is a monster triple that I've never had a problem with up until what happened in the backstory. Also have the billet release bearing that goes inside of the slave, so I know that's not the issue.

Backstory:
I pulled my motor a while back and while it was out, like an idiot, I pressed the clutch pedal causing it to push the small seal off the slave. Because of that, some fluid leaked out and I had to crack the bleeder on the slave to push it back down and put that front ring seal back on.(the seal I am referring to is the one you would take off to install tick/monster billet release bearing) Once the car was up and running again, it took quite a few pumps to get the pedal from sticking to the floor. Slave is also brand new since this incident with about 2500 miles on it. It has been bled some as well from the slave cylinder itself with 2 bottles of brake fluid put through it, but the line used off the slave bleeder did not really seal too well on it, so wasn't really able to tell if there was a lot of air in the system, or if it was just air being pulled from the bad seal on the line to the bleeder valve.

All in all, just wanted to see if anyone has had a similar experience with their clutch pedal and what the solution was for you. If you were to bleed the system, would you pull all of the fluid out of the reservoir with a vacuum bleed setup or, get a better line for the slave cyl bleeder valve and pump it until my leg comes off?

Does it have an adjustable pressure plate? The one with the small springs mounted sideways?

Back in my mechanic days, some of the hydraulic clutch systems were SUPER hard to bleed. The Ford Ranger comes to mind, the instructions were to pump the pedal as fast as you could 10-15 times to get the air bubbles to move out of the master cylinder and into the reservoir line, then hold down and bleed and repeat. This would take several attempts to get all the trapped air out. What you are describing sounds like you still have some air in the system.

I believe monster utilizes an oem flywheel if I'm not mistaken.

That's what my buddy and I are thinking. Just wanted more opinions to get an idea is all! Thank you for your input! Will be attempting to bleed the slave more thoroughly soon.