Balancer Bolt Torque
 

I can't recall if the kit comes with a new crank bolt. I believe it does as it's not recommended to reuse the old one but either way its 240 Ft/Lbs.

I received a new bolt with my blower kit, but I don't think the cam kit included the bolt. I looked on Ted J's website and the parts list for the cam kit did not list a bolt.
The balancer/pulley bolts on modern vehicles are somewhat of a mystery to me. I cannot understand why they are all torqued so damn tight. Old school big/small blocks used a 3/8" bolt and they never seemed to come off. Ford always used a big ass bolt, but it was only torqued to a hundred and something ft-lbs.
I think I'll just order an ARP bolt and be done with it.

I believe the Stock balancer bolt is TTY and not re-useable because the threads stretch.

Due to this post I have added the ARP Crank bolt to our cam package along with the phase limiter tool.

Our kit does come with a GM bolt but I prefer you use an ARP.

It was an oversight on our part we are sending you a crank bolt no charge.

Thank you for your business.

Ted.

This is why I buy nearly all my stuff from Ted! Phenomenal service before and after the sale.

Ted, my kit did include the phase limiter tool

Sounds like your making progress.

the crank bolt is not designed to be used twice. obviously many people do without any issues; but that's up to you!

two different style crank bolts with different torquing procedures. see the pdf from pace performance for all torque specs.

Crankshaft Balancer Bolt – New Bolt with Flanged Head
• First Pass: 120Y (89 lb ft)
• Second Pass: Loosen 360 degrees
• Third Pass: 80Y (59 lb ft)
• Final Pass: 125 degrees

OR

Crankshaft Balancer Bolt – New Bolt with Retained Rotating Washer
• First Pass: 120Y (89 lb ft)
• Second Pass: Loosen 360 degrees
• Third Pass: 80Y (59 lb ft)
• Final Pass: 200 degrees

https://paceperformance.com/files/pd...rque-specs.pdf

Thanks for the link, hitmix! All I i really need, info wise to finish up is the torque values. You saved me the $15 daily service manual rental fee!

Yeah, slowly but surely. I managed to get the shortblock back together. Planning to dry fit the heads, check valve clearances and lifter preload if i can find a spare couple of hours today. The machine shop removed a total of .020 from the block & heads getting everything squared up. I'm pretty sure I'll be ok, but better safe than sorry.

If that is accurate I would be looking at a 0.020 thicker than stock gasket to retain stock compression.

Of course if the pistons are the same CCs.

Ted.

Did you do stock compression? If not Ted is right, that would give you a higher compression rate that might be a little to high for boosted. I did a 10.5 motor

Pistons are -6cc. reduced volume in the cylinder based on 4.06 bore & .020 reduced deck height works out to -4.24cc so my CR should be right at stock. Even so, I would feel more comfortable with thicker head gaskets. Do you guys have a source for custom gaskets, or off the shelf gaskets that are around .071 (I miced the originals at .051). BTW the machine shop had to deck the block to remove a small divit at the edge of the no 2 cylinder. I have no idea how it got there. I wrapped the block in a blanket and transported it in the back seat of my truck to the machine shop.
Do you guys have a recommended source for thicker gaskets? I miced the originals at .051.