Possible Shudder Solution for 8L45 - Lubeguard?
Came across this: https://www.lubegard.com/wp-content/...ll_sizes_2.pdf
I know transmission shudder is a big issue for the 8L45. I, thankfully, have not experienced any shudders, even under WOT. That said, thinking of adding this as a precautionary measure. That said, curious to hear if anyone has tried this already and what their experience was. |
I read about that too, but I have my doubts on it. Mine has the 8L45, and I had the latest fluid and flush procedure done about 30,000 miles ago, and it's still doing great
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IMO the best precautionary measure is having a dealership properly perform TSB 18-NA-355 on the car that is known to fix it in every case I've heard about and thus certainly as effective in preventing it as possible (see related poll here). You don't even have to prove any shudder condition anymore.
Picture dumping Lubeguard in, getting the shudder nevertheless and then the dealership charging you for the flush despite the car being under powertrain warranty, simply because of the use of this aftermarket additive they may be able to detect. |
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Thanks, you make a good point. I'll talk to the dealership about getting it done this weekend then. As it turns out, I had the car in for servicing this past weekend and they ended up scratching the passenger door AND leaving a mist of white paint... so they are already giving me a loaner while they fix that anyway. |
First, the shudder happens more with low engine load. Not under WOT.
Think, cruising with very little throttle (but still some). That's when you'll experience shudder. If your automatic transmission has fluid from before the 1st quarter of 2019, it's not a question of IF you'll get shudder. Just when. It's not a question of IF you should get new fluid put in, but how much do you want to procrastinate biting the bullet? There are additives that will help mitigate the problem that the old fluid has with attracting water due to the low temp the trans fluid generally stays at and it's natural hydrophilic properties. These are not real fixes though and will only buy you some time. A full fluid flush with new blue label fluid is the only way to fix the issue. If you wait until the shudder is very noticeable, you run the risk of causing perm damage to your torque converter due to the varnishing effects of the slipping and cavitation of water boiling in the fluid. You should do the new fluid before you feel the shudder if you are fairly sure you're currently using fluid from before Q1 2019. if your car was made after q1 2019, then you already have the new fluid and should not experience shudder ever unless you have an unrelated issue. |
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If they can't do simple service without ****ing something up, I wouldn't trust them at all with something complex like the fluid flush. And remember that fluid flush doesn't include a filter change. And as I understand it, the shudder is from debris in the transmission fluid. |
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To their credit, this is the first time I've had any serious issues with them. In the past, their work has always been stellar, so I'm leaning towards chalking this up to whatever bonehead they had working on those two weekends as opposed to the whole dealership. I'm going in today and I'll be speaking to them about the transmission flush. I'm still under the powertrain warranty so I believe it is covered, but if they give me the run around on that, I'll just take it to the family mechanic. I'd rather try with them first though because at least I'm getting a loaner and not paying for a rental out of pocket. |
Quick update on this.
Finally had to take it into for the flush after getting a warning light. Took a month and got it back just yesterday. Have to say, the flush makes a big difference in how smoothly it drives now. Weirdly, the dealer also removed my wiper fluid for some reason. They claim they didn't but, just before taking it in I had JUST refilled the reservoir. This is the second dealer to pull some weird, petty nonsense with me (first took my aluminum valve covers and suggested I had removed them myself before dropping off the vehicle). I don't understand why people can't just be honest about minor things anymore. |
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I told him I didn't care how much it cost and it was a matter of principles and reported the dealer to corporate, highlighting EVERYTHING ELSE they did to screw up both my vehicles in a month's time. Resulted in tons of calls from the dealer and tons of messages that I never bothered responding to. This second dealer I went to for the flush were pleasant enough but I have no idea why they would drain my windshield wiper fluid. Unfortunately, in my area, one guy is basically buying up all the Chevy dealers, so it's getting more and more difficult to avoid them. |
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Competence or lack thereof is obviously a problem, but these "ethics" are an order of magnitude worse, an absolute dealbreaker and you're doing well to make as much noise about what happened as you are. |
2017 Camaro SS2 Shudder
My Camaro (2017 SS2, automatic) also has shudder. I have three questions:
(1) How can I tell what transmission I have? (2) What causes the shudder? (3) Until I can get my car to the dealer, will I cause any damage if I continue to drive it? Looking forward to your replies and guidance. |
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As far as I know it's 8L90E (2) What causes the shudder? Torque converter lockup clutch slippage. (3) Until I can get my car to the dealer, will I cause any damage if I continue to drive it? Maybe... I took mine in as soon as I felt the shudder at around 10K miles. They did the flush... was better for about 10-15K after that now its back again around 25K miles. Granted, I put a procharger on it, but lockup clutch shouldn't be affected by that as it only applies at light to no throttle. It's kinda hit or miss whether it will get perm fixed by the flush. But general consensus is get it fixed as soon as possible to minimize damage, but it may already be too late. Personally, I plan on putting in an aftermarket TC over the winter most likely. Great car... but this issue has really made me angry. |
v6 and 4 cylinder get 8l45, v8 go the 8l90.
You need to make some changes in the tune. turn off afm and disable the TCC slip tables in the TCM. The problem is due to mainly tuning and partially the original fluid used. I thought I mentioned this already in one of your threads? |
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