Maximum power on stock motor & rear end
 

Has anyone bolted on a power adder with minimal or no other mods or upgrades? If so, please chime in on your experiences.

I would like to add a supercharger without building the car. Its a 2019 2ss with the A10.

Thanks for the knowledge and I apologize if this topic has been discussed before. I am fairly new here.

Thanks.

more of a traction issue vs a power IMO of course. Anything with DR OO wear rating you risk busting sumpting.... vs 1000 HP on stock drivetrain and stock tires, I don't think will every break.... tires will wear out.

The thing is you'll need to do a cam swap also to get more fuel out of it vs making some good power and still running the AFM/DOD lifters that can fail down the road.

Just get lt4 supercharger, read up.......
I'll get you started
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528126

Most important part is having someone tune it who's good.

You can buy a Whipple kit use there can tune and be fine. As long as you get the kit it's all you need unless you wanna make big power. But if you were then you wouldn't be asking what the bare minimum is.

I personally didn't use the tune I got with my Whipple. I had it Dyno tuned. Just know the ring gap on my SS was pretty tight.

Mine made 713 on stock motor, it broke a couple ring lands. I still have stock converter, trans and rear. Now with the new forged motor I'm at about 800 rwhp. I have replaced the driveshaft but the other drive train components are stock. I'd say 650 is safe, but so many factors need to be covered to get there safely.
We have 2300 Magnuson Heartbeat that gets you to 550 with ease on all stock parts. Do your home work and figure out what you want to do with the car first, street, drag race, autocross or whatever. Don't waste money and don't believe everything you read or hear.

As laynlo15 said. Check my sig for mods, I did something very similar to what you are after, the bottom end is completely stock. The car put down 560 rwhp @ 8 psi, tuned by Jannetty Racing. It's a beast on the street, drivability is better than stock, Ted gave me a great tune for the Maggie, the A8 and the LT5 throttle body, and there is relatively little risk of breakage at this low boost level.

Thanks!

Thats exactly what I wanted to hear!

You limiting factor is fueling. Your current situation is limited by the fuel pump in the tank (referred to as the "low side" pump). It will only feed enough fuel to maybe 550hp (depending on what you have available locally for fuel and elevation).

From there if you change the low side pump to a ZL1/1LE pump, you will then be limited by the mechanical fuel pump on the engine (referred to as the "high side"pump) to around 625hp.

From there you would be looking at a LT4 high side pump or doing a cam swap with a modified fuel lobe to get more fuel.

This is why all the s/c companies limit out at about the same power because the LT1 fuel system from the factory can only feed so much.

This is all on premium pump gas by the way - E85 will require more fuel flow.

The problem with the lt1 bottom end is the ring gap. Incase you’re not aware if the ring gap is tight, and you heat up the rings, they expand and they have nowhere to expand to so they crack the pistons. It’s not so much as a power issue as a heat issue. Well with power comes heat obviously.

So a lot has to do with the tune, and most importantly how you drive it. The longer you’re in boost the hotter the piston gets.

The way I see it, lt1’s and their internals are a dime a dozen. It’s not a $30k porsche engine. If you blow it, it’s just an excuse to build the bottom end. It’s usually not much more expensive to build the bottom end after you blow it vs doing it beforehand. In some ways it almost makes more sense to not build it, drive it for 10-40k miles, then build the motor.

I have a Whipple with 8-9 psi, LT4 injectors, LPE DI pump, LT4 low side with a JMS booster. I run E85 which will help keep them stock pistons happy being how effective it is at pulling heat out of the cylinders. My fuel pressures both low and hi are solid. I also have Roto fab, LT5 tb, CA delete pipes and a axle back.

On the street with a 305/35/20 dr it hooks pretty good from a dig. Might need to turn speakers up so you can hear it launch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pYoTgQVvC7w

Do you think if you had headers and exhaust with less boost it would still be alive and have made similar power? I though you were running stock exhaust on 12 + psi?