Maintenance Videos: Pad Change, Diff Fluid Swap, Trans Fluid Swap, Brake Fluid Flush
 

Hey everyone,

I've been making some short videos on some key maintenance items for the Camaro. Check them out and let me know what you think:

Pad Change:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M2qZqAJep9s

Brake Fluid Swap:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwcNOH-XPMk

Diff Fluid Change:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8dhUt5Ievzs&t=2s

Transmission Fluid Swap:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5n39L8s0-Q&t=82s

Great stuff man. Way better than waiting 5 min for someone to plug their like an subscribe follow me everywhere and here's my sponsors you tube vids lol.

Concise and clear with a good view 10/10

Really good videos. I came for the DIFF fluid swap, then immediately turned it off when I saw the car on 4 jack stands and you crawling under it. I don't have the balls for that, therefore my dealership will be getting my $100 bucks for that project each time. :)
I'm not cutout for potentially be crushed to death, much respect for all you guys and gals that do this daily.
Great videos, much appreciated!

Thanks! I am not on YouTube to make money, just a side hobby I enjoy making videos and sharing my track vids.

I'm glad you liked the video.

I completely understand that. I see you are in the Minneapolis area. If you don't have a preferred dealer, go see Keith R. at Wayzata Chevrolet. It's worth the drive. Keith is their performance tech and does the work on all Corvettes and Camaro's. I had my alignment done there and he got it to the exact spec I asked for and even let me sit in the car while doing the alignment for best accuracy. Top notch dealer.

Thanks for posting these! They would have made it easier for my first time doing these tasks if they existed a few years ago and I'm sure they will help others.

Notes/Feedback:
The service manual doesn't mention using any grease/lubricant on the front pads like you do in your video but it probably won't hurt anything and it does say to use it on the rear pads in the same spot you showed. The Permatex ceramic extreme 24129 that you used is the only product that I found with a high enough temperature rating for track use...the green Permatex stuff I tried before got too hot and disappeared after a track day. You should also add a reminder to the video to pump the brake pedal a few times until it gets firm at the end of the video so someone doesn't forget and hit something if the pedal goes to the floor on their test drive the first time they try to stop!

Also in my experience, removing the brake fluid cap makes it easier to press the pistons back in (not mentioned in the service manual) but make sure to leave yourself a note to put it back on and twist it afterwards so you don't forget. And watch out because it may pop off and fall into the engine bay when you push on the pistons if you leave it sitting loose on top of the reservoir!

The service manual says you need to drain 8oz of the OEM transmission fluid after you fill it, or measure the level at 1/8" below the fill plug with bent mechanic's wire. You should update your video since you are currently instructing people to overfill the transmission fluid. This was edited into the DIY photo thread: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=492814
This may not apply to other non-ATF fluids if they don't expand as temperature increases: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...6#post10870206

The service manual calls for using sealant on the manual transmission fill plug (Genuine GM Parts 12346004 - Liquid Teflon Sealant 50cc Tube). This Permatex Hi Temp Thread Sealant 59214 seems to be equivalent. I have done it without sealant in the past and found no leaks after a few track days...maybe the extra leftover sealant on the threads did the job. Torque is 20 lb ft for the transmission fill plug.

Like you mentioned in a comment on YouTube, the service manual calls for using the transmission fluid temperature sensor (right below the fill plug) as the drain plug instead of the actual drain plug. It is less messy that way. Torque is 20 lb ft for the transmission fluid temperature sensor (need a deep socket [15mm I think] or crow's foot wrench) and the service manual says to use the same sealant I mentioned above before reinstalling it. I used loctite blue 242 last time and it was not leaking when I checked after a few track days. Mine had a loose purple plastic piece with slots for the electrical pins that fell out from inside of the connector when I unplugged it last time so watch out not to lose that and tuck the connector away facing up so it can't fall out while you drain the fluid. I think it is supposed to stay in place when you unplug it though. If I remember correctly, you can also use a 1.5" long 3/8 extension to loosen the fill plug without unclipping and moving the cooler pipe hard line, but the service manual says to unclip and move it.

Wow! Awesome notes! I was planning on updating/changing the videos next time I do the maintenance flushes. Putting the videos together is a bit of work, so next time I do these I'll be sure to have specific notes I want to talk about, and I will for sure use these.

Circling back on this, the transmission fluid temperature sensor requires a 22mm wrench (or crow's foot), not 15mm. 1/2" drive 22mm deep socket doesn't have enough clearance to attach the ratchet or a wobble extension and regular depth isn't deep enough. Maybe a medium depth or 3/8" drive 22mm deep socket would work instead of the wrench but I don't have those. There were no leaks using the sealant above but it was harder to loosen the sensor next time with the sealant. I had to use a 1' breaker bar on the 22 mm wrench to break it free. I also previously used an adjustable crescent wrench to loosen the sensor but had to buy the 22mm wrench this time because of the extra force required to break the sealant free after the crescent wrench started to round the edges of the metal off of the sensor.

The purple plastic piece fell out again (this time when I was about to plug the connector back into the sensor) but thankfully it just fell onto the ground and not into the transmission fluid since I tucked the connector up before draining the fluid and moved the fluid catch container our of the way after it finished draining. I don't think it fell out the time before that.

Also I have been using a small handheld manual fluid transfer pump with hoses for in and out but I probably should switch to a pump style that screws into the bottles because it is easy to accidentally tip the bottles over and spill fluid while pumping with my current pump.

This is correct but I had to unclip the pipe in order to get the fill plug started when reinstalling it because the pipe blocks your fingers. I probably could have put my fingers on the extension after pushing it into the fill plug to get it started instead but didn't want to drop it and contaminate the sealant if the extension came apart from the fill plug while trying to tighten it.

Also torque for the eLSD drain and fill plugs is 24 lb ft according to the service manual and no thread sealant is called for. I have been using this torque value since I got the car with no issues like loosening or leaks from those plugs.

For sure! I’ve decided I’ll have to make an updated Trans fluid video in the future. I’m almost at the 15 hours of track time on the trans fluid so when I do, I’m going to make another video calling out all the torque specs, and using the sensor plug to drain. I appreciate the feedback on the sealant you used. I may just buy the OEM stuff in the future.

FYI. When I changed my tranny fluid I was intrigued by the 1/8" less than the fill plug that GM says in the manual.

I called tremec and they advised me not to worry about the 1/8" less than the fill line when refilling. That was years ago and I have had no issues with my tranny when I filled to the plug then let it run out to the line.

Same here, but if I am going to remake a video on this, I'll make sure to follow the OEM guidelines so that there isn't any question or risk.