Ethanol question
 

I’ve got a Kong x port, headers, 103 throttle body, 2.3” upper pulley, running on 93 octane. If I went back to a 2.5” pulley and added a jms boost a pump, would I be able to run any appreciable amount of ethanol with that and the stock high side? I’m at about 700 feet elevation.

I believe maybe e30-40 but you’d really just have to log it or have your tuner verify it on dyno. There are a couple guys on here that probably have direct experience and can give you a more accurate prediction.

Agreed, always best to start with low concentrations and data log it keeping a careful eye on:
Low side fuel pressure
High side rail pressure
Injector pulse width

Or, just ask KingLT1 since he probably knows the numbers off the top of his head. :smiling1:

Did you do all the mods yourself or have a shop do the mods&tune? If so, who did the work and what numbers did you hit? Thanks 🙏

Thanks, I’m trying to figure out it if would be worth doing. I don’t have a flex fuel sensor yet, either. Maybe this winter I’ll do injectors and big bore pump like you? I’d rather do that than a cam, but my car is in the dreaded oil pump failure zone. Might make sense to go the cam and oil pump route?

I did the work. Had it dyno tuned. It’s an automatic. Made 644/614 STD on a dynojet. I believe it was run in 6th gear. No baseline, unfortunately.

It’s a hard call with you being in the oil pump fail zone. I’d be tempted to do cam and pump first. Having said that, the flex fuel sensor, Big Bore pump and injectors are a pretty simple, easy project to do at home in the garage. Either way, sounds like you are exploring the right options to me.

If I go cam, I’d have to take it to a shop, which I’d rather not do. Don’t really want someone tearing my car apart. I guess it’s all who does the work. I’m in eastern Ohio. Haven’t found a good shop recommendation yet. I’d think Columbus should have some good shops? I hope the pump doesn’t make the decision for me, though.😛

Unfortunately mine sealed the deal for me, although I actually had all the parts ordered including oil pump. This is probably obvious but make sure you thoroughly research any shop taking out the engine if you go that route. Some apparently forget to put the small, obvious stuff back on. Ask me how I know :bonk:

I live in Columbus and I can tell you the number of GM performance shops is awfully lean for a city of this size. Carlyle Racing and CIA Performance are two that come to mind. I have no experience with either. Carlyle Racing's FB page hasn't been touched since last August. If I were in the market for performance mods, I would probably checkout WeaponX in Cincinnati. I know several owners that had builds done there and they seem pretty satisfied.

If you're in eastern Ohio you might check out CSP. It might not be that much farther a drive to their shop as the drive to Cincinnati.

A lot of it will depend on the target AFR. I could make the fuel system handle full E85 with those mods if I targeted a lean AFR. However I don't believe that is the best approach. Targeting a safer AFR(.83-.84) you would probably be limited to E40 which is still going to net you good gains and more consistent power since the spark correction vs manifold temps can be adjusted to allow higher temps without pulling timing.

If you did XDI +30' and a LPE hpfp, you could get up over E60 with a stock pulley.

We are running a Kong standard port with 2.17 pulley on E60 with the fuel system above. Has all the other supporting bolt's...headers, cai, 103mm tb...etc. It made 700/660 SAE on a Mustang Dyno that reads about 5-6% lower then a Dynojet.

And I agree about having somebody tear apart a perfectly well running engine. Which is why I would rather spend money on fuel system to run E over doing a cam and 93. You don't really need a cam to make good power with these engines anyway. Not saying a cam is a bad choice because at a certain point it is definitely needed. But for builds under 800whp it's not. Full bolt's, fuel system, E, Xport or bigger supercharger, will make more consistent power then you will hook on the street without a full drag pack on a prepped surface anyway.

The 1000whp shit is just for internet/local car club bragging rights. I have timing pulled out through the mid range on my brothers H/C 2650 Z06 M7 . It made 900/780 on the same Mustang Dyno with 3 mph of wheel spin. Took 6 pulls, lots of stripper glue, and other tricks to get it from 21mph wheel spin to 3mph. First pulls was 760/780whp spinning. That was with a Hoosier race tire. The thing is nuts and he wants to turn it up more. lol

Thanks for the info! The pump/injector route is preferable to me. First I’ll get a wide band hooked up. Maybe do the flex sensor and boost a pump this summer.

On a mustang dyno with LT's, 19% lower, bg, kooks and 45% e and a jms we were making 688whp.

Made the mistake of going to e60, leaned out 2 cylinders and boom.

It would have been much cheaper upfront to address the fueling than rebuilding the engine. Expensive lesson.

Ouch! That sucks!