2016 Camaro Fuel pump Voltage
 

I have a 2016 Camaro 2ss A8 with the zl1 low side in tank fuel pump. I have been seeing where a boost a pump is being installed to increase voltage to increase pressure. I came across an article that stated HP tuners can now increase voltage via tuning. Is this true? If so how and where is this found in HP tuners? Would you be able to command a higher normal voltage then as you go wot raise the peak voltage currently in the stock tune? That way you don't get the fluctuations. Also be able to use zl1 pump more effectively. I already have fscm trans and ecu credits in HpTuners.

There are tables for this I think under the fuel system tab but I don’t have it in front of me. I changed mine to command higher voltage but never logged to see if it helped. When I get home I will post up what tables I changed so you can try it and let us know if it helped.

Thanks parish8

System/General/fuel system voltage min

Seems like I did see a difference but it just went a little over 15volts better than dropping to 13 but not as good as the 17volts a voltage booster would get you.

I would be curious to know your before and after results since I am kind of foggy on how well it worked for me.

maybe go back a little farther on the change and do the 127 and 159 cells

Do you have the zl1 in tank pump? Is this the only place that needs to be adjusted?

I do, no idea.

Another member posted that increasing the voltage helped on his setup.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...94&postcount=8

Exactly as he posted above & change the min fuel pump voltage to this:

Why 15.5 not 16.5?

I used the values from a 2018 Zl1, that's all. I run 93 (10% ethanol) and I don't lose pressure at all. If you're running E85, maybe you will need 16.5v. I haven't had time to put the flex fuel sensor on and dial it in yet.

Do not get the 2 solutions confused.

Your alternator is controlled by the computer and you can force it to charge all the time but will cook the battery in the process.

System voltage is varied based on the state of charge in the battery we see 11.8 to 15 volts.

Since system voltage varies widely we recommend a FPVB for every build.

A fuel pump voltage booster regardless of system voltage will put out a constant 14.5 volts then when you pass 50% throttle it jumps to 17.5 volts.

Ted.

Ted, good point on the battery, but I don't think maintaining 12-14v is going to cook it. It was interesting when I did change the voltage, the car became instantly better with the A8 shifting. It was not smooth if you were easy on the gas. Something I complained about on my 2016 I had before my 18. It is smooth now and when you step on it, the shifts are nice and firm. It's all I did before putting the s/c on, so I know it fixed that issue and 12.5v is when it became smooth. GM should have the computer system maintain 12.5v, let the battery be 11.8-15, and fuel pump capable of a constant 14-17.5v.

On the computer control, I had an understanding that there are different output terminals from the alternator. So I command the battery to stay at 12.6v-14.4v and the fuel pump gets 15.5v max when needed. Looking at past logs, the voltage only goes past 14.4v when I'm 55%+ throttle and 3k rpm. I found it to be directly linked with PE Enable. Thinking the actual voltage delivered also takes into account for the needed fuel supply. Mine sits at 15.2v when PE is active even though it is 15.5v in the chart. My assumption is that the control unit knows I'm not maxing the LT4 fuel injectors or LT4 supply feed and there is no need for more voltage (15.5v). Do you have a different understanding of the computer control system?

I agree the fuel pump booster is much different and if someone needs 17.5v constant power for the set up, go with the stand alone power booster, and don't even read anything about this conversation. For guys that just need a little more out of their system to be on the safe side, pressure drop only after a long pull, tune the oem computer to your liking is my thoughts. I've put over 4k miles on my 2018 since mid July when I did the s/c and I've been very happy with it. I leave my house in the am, returning in the afternoon, and turned it off only a hand full of times today which is more than usual. Literally, the car runs for 5-7hrs day with a 5-10 min turn off here and there.

Thank you for sharing your experience and test results, I find this very helpful as I am sure others will also.

Batteries can get very hot if you constantly put 14.5 volts in them this is why charging rate tapers off as battery comes up to full charge.

You can test this in your garage if you have a battery charger where you can command a certain voltage and monitor the battery temp it will continue to get hotter and hotter.

Battery chargers start high the move to low as the battery comes up to full charge just like the alternator in our cars.

I agree where 12.5 volts would be better than 11.8 as far as any electrical device solenoids and such.

The fuel pump voltage booster does not put out a constant 17.5 volts unless you set it up to do so they are programmable, we set them up for 14.5 then after 50% throttle they go to 17.5 this isolates the FPCM and makes the pump run better than ever.

Ted.