I swore I wasnt but ordered a Heartbeat Supercharger system What are the must haves??
 

Well I couldn't pass up the deal and decided to bite. My car is my daily driver and I absolutely love it but didn't want to compromise the drivetrain warranty but oh well. So with that said What are the must haves. Off the top of my head I am thinking:

ported TB
catch can
intake
gauge pod with boost and wideband

Front and rear main seals, aftermarket pistons w/ better rings. Other than that, the only other thing I would say would be a must, is a catch can. Everything else is dependent upon how much power you're looking to make. Injectors, fuel pump, etc., etc.

That's crazy talk man. LOL I am making over 650RWHP on my C7 with stock internals. I am not looking to make no more then about 525RWHP on this guy. I want a fun reliable car. If there are small mods that help or support the system I will invest.

As per JRE, you only need a front crank seal and a fuel pump voltage booster for that safe power level. And the supercharger, of course :laugh:

I have a catch can, too, but it's mostly for peace of mind, I'm not 100% sure it's needed, but it cost next to nothing compared to the rest of the build, and the original powertrain warranty is gone anyway. (Magnuson does provide a fairly good, free 3-year limited warranty with the blower that covers engine and transmission as well.)

You shouldn't need a ported TB.

#1 is a good tuner.

Teddy, glad you ended up with a Magnuson. Pm me if you need any info or help on anything.

Teddy, as you already know, it depends on boost. On your C7 it's the same motor. The stock Maggie running the 98mm pulley will put you at about 530-540whp @5 psi. If you go with the 95mm pulley it will be 7 psi and between 550-575whp (a8) and you should be solid on the stock fuel system.

a) The voltage booster might not be a bad idea only because it guarantees you will have the same voltage supplied to your low pressure fuel pump. If you look at some of the threads I had when we were going through testing and upping the boost, you can see that the voltage booster did make a big difference. I think that Ted Jannetty also has a great thread where he actually shows how our cars sometimes start up with different voltage supplied and thus the fuel pump behaves differently. In my opinion, it's kind of a low cost insurance option. I personally didn't add this until well after the initial install, but after seeing the difference it made...as others pointed out, probably a good option.

b) The catch can and intake make sense too.

c) The gauges are cool, but I would say that the boost gauge is kind of a waste because with the Maggie you will be at full boost from smash till let off. I have found that I prefer to use HP Tuner to see all of the data, but I like the way the gauges look and the af gauge seems useful. If I had it to do over again, I probably would opt for the HP Tuner nGauge for the driver side vent. It is just much more versatile.

Funny, I am going the opposite way. I have my Camaro ready to roll as my fun car and my C7 is my daily driver. I am planning to keep the Vette in the 550-600whp range as it's my daily driver. I have been looking at the different options: Maggie, Procharger, LT4, and A&A Ti - Vortech.

Which blower do you have on the C7?

1) Good tuner
2) LS3 crank seal
3) JMS voltage booster
4) LT5 throttle body

Hardly. Just because you can and have in the past, doesn’t mean that you should continue to do so. I’m of the mind that if I boosted a LT1, I’ll do it once and do it right the first time. I’d like to think that I learned something about these engines by browsing the forums and one thing that I’ve learned is that boosting the stock engine is a roll of the dice to which the odds are not always in your favor.

Granted, you could say that modifying an engine or engines in general are inherently prone to failure but, there’s an acceptable margin of failure that I’m willing to have. You clearly have a wider margin that you’re willing to accept. From a mechanical standpoint, that’s what I would suggest as a minimum to do it right and have it live a long and happy life. From a software standpoint, obviously your tuner will make a world of difference.

Also, if that’s all the power you’re looking to make, it’s completely possible to make that naturally aspirated and not have to worry about the mechanical bits I mentioned.

Since you live in California I would just stay with Magnuson Handheld tuner and you'll make that 525 that you want. Especially if you want to have the Magnuson warranty. You'll make about 6 lbs of boost or so and you can blow the rear tires off anytime you want and that keeps it Carb Certified. If you don't want the warranty and want to have it tuned that's up to you. I use the Roto-fab intake as most do with the Heartbeat.

If you go with the 98 or even 95mm pulley, the ZL1 low side pump is a more cost effective option than the JMS and should provide plenty of fuel. You can always add the JMS at a later date if you decide to crank up the boost.

First and fore most, The purpose of the JMS is to maintain consistent voltage to the low side pump due to the fluctuating voltage on these cars.

Second they do work for getting more out of the fuel pump if you choose to up the voltage.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=15

I agree a ZL1 pump is low cost effective upgrade but I didn't mention it because I could not find any information stating if that pump works in a C7. At that point it might be worth investigating to see if the 19 ZR1 in-tank pump would fit.

or just add a aux low side pump if you don't mind tapping the fuel tank.

Congrats. Nice choice.