Hardwiring radar in the vert?
 

Hey all. Anyone have any success hardwiring a radar detector in their 6th gen convertible? I bought a mirror tap off of Amazon but can't get the overhead console removed per the instructions over in the DIY forums as it's not in a headliner like in the coupe but instead is fully surrounded by plastic. Thoughts?

subscribed.. need an answer, too.

Yes, I've done this for a dash cam... I'll try and take some pics tomorrow to go along with what I remember. You have to loosen the A pillar trim first, then you can loosen the trim piece that runs the width of the windshield header. I couldn't figure out how to completely remove the header trim piece because the mirror prevents it from coming all the way off, but you don't need to actually pull it completely off.

Well, I'm not pulling the trim apart today, but I took a couple pics of the first couple steps to get it apart.

1. Flip down the sun visors and remove 4 little tabs to access screw heads and remove the screws. The picture shows one of the tabs. You can pry the tabs out by pushing a thin flat blade screwdriver in the outboard edge of the tab and removing it. Try not to drop them, as they are easily lost!
2. Use a trim removal tool to gently pry the A pillar trim loose as shown in the second picture. This trim piece doesn't need to be removed completely, as it will be held in place at the bottom end. If you want to remove it completely, you can pull it out, but it's a little hard to get it back in place, so I would say leave it dangling. Do this for both A pillars.
3. There is another screw on each side holding the header trim in place. Once the A pillar trim is loosened, you can access those last 2 screws and remove them.
4. With all 6 screws removed, now you can use your trim removal tools to pry the header trim piece loose. Work carefully, and eventually you'll have the whole thing free.

When I did this, as I mentioned before, I didn't completely remove the header trim piece; the rear view mirror keeps it dangling there.

For power, I tapped off the wiring harness in the passenger side A pillar for +12V DC. You can unplug the harness and probe the contacts to find the correct wires to use for ground and switched +12V. My dash cam requires USB 5V power, so I got a little power converter and stashed it behind the trim at the top of the A pillar.

Here's some of the stuff I used to get this all working:
trim removal tool kit
hardwire USB power adapter
Edit: I don't recommend using the above power supply with the Rexing cam, as the camera shuts down intermittently when powered by this device. Need to try a different one...
Rexing V1P dash cam

I have the rear camera mounted next to the OEM backup camera, but haven't gotten around to routing the wire for that rear camera all the way back up to the main dash cam unit yet. I'll need to remove a bunch of trim in order to route that cable, so I'll take some pics next time I tear it all apart again. ;)

Good luck!
Matt

This is very useful. Thanks!

Did you put an inline fuse behind the A pillar as well as the power adapter for 5 volts?

The hardwire kit I used included an inline fuse on the 12V side. So yes, that's stashed behind the A pillar trim also.

Finally got around to doing this today. I've attached a picture of the screw behind the passenger-side A-pillar (driver-side is a mirror image).

All screws involved are Torx T20. Took a good bit of force to get the clips for the header piece popped out, and a second set of hands to help light up the area behind the console to get the airbag light undone to tap into, but overall once I followed MattDinOC's instructions it went pretty smoothly. Sadly the hardwire kit I used is a tiny hair shorter than I would like in combination with the mirror mount I am using. It works and fits but there is zero slack in the cord. I will probably remedy this with a phone cord extender at some point in the near future, but for now, it looks a -ton- better. Thanks MattDinOC!

Awesome! Glad you got it done and that I was able to provide some help. :) I forgot those are Torx heads. Kind of an important detail. LOL

thanks

I’m going to hardware my radar to the very soon. This is very helpful guys!

This thread should be stickied or somehow merged into the Guide: How-to Hard Wire Radar thread so other convertible owners will have a one-stop place to hard wire their dash cams/radar detectors.

I finally got my top trim piece loosened enough that I'm now looking for the best place to tap into for 12v power.

By the way, Rexing makes a hard wire kit that will step down the voltage from 12v to the camera's required 5v. Used one in my wife's Escape (I'm jealous she has an in cabin fuse block) and I'll clip the ground spade and fuse tap on mine to tap into a power source.

So could one use mirror tap for a radar detector with this access?

How?

I wired a camera that required a switched and unswitched power line (standby mode). It also has a line that goes to the rear camera. Here's a few pictures that may help. Use the method above to pull off the A pillar and top center trim pieces. A note of caution. The driver's side a pillar has the Bluetooth mic behind the small hole. It will pull loose easily. Only held in by a clip and some rubber cement. Check it before putting the trim back on. On the passengers side, there is a slot in the pillar that you can fish the wires through. I used a piece of steel wire as a fish tape.

Attachment 941619


I ran the wires to the rubber plug that is just above the top door hinge. Cut a small slot and pull the wires through. The wires can then be run to the fuse box or the auxiliary buss bar behind the box. Easy way to get to the power and not go through the firewall. I put the wires in split plastic conduit and ran it through the fender over the wheel well. Hope this helps.

Attachment 941620