Anatomy of a VERY QUICK Dual Purpose Car
 

UPDATED 5/6/22

I post this up with the hope it will help somebody that wants to do some road racing and maybe needs a little help with their set up or whatever. This is my DAILY DRIVER and is also a TRACK CAR. It started out as a 2019 SS2

While these parts choices are my own based of course on my personal opinion and experience, I KNOW this works and along the way I KNOW what doesnt work. These parts are WAY too expensive to be guessing especially for some of the guys on a budget. Best MOD and it doesnt cost anything other than track rental is of course if the DRIVER.

Modification List 2019 SS2

Suspension/Chassis/Brakes

SG3 Suspension (84203549 from www.sdparts.com – cost 1333.51) Note: NEW PART NUMBER is 86773565
UPDATE: I replaced the above with KW Variant 3 Coilover system
BMR adjustable Sway Bars front and rear (SB052 for BOTH bars, Cost 429.95))
BMR Billet Steel Bearing Holders for FRONT Sway bar (SBB010 is a SPECIAL Order part from BMR NOT in catalog, cost is around 300.00))
BMR Adjustible Sway Bar End Link Kit (ELK015 for both front and rear cost: 349.95)
SPLPARTS rear toe links with Eccentric Lockout (SPL RTAEL CAM6 cost 429.00)
SPLPARTS Bumpsteer Adjustible Tie Rod Ends (SPL TRE CAM6 cost 299)
UPDATE:I no longer use the part above as it was UNNECESSARY
VORSHLAG Camber Plates (cost around 695)
ZL1 1LE brakes front and rear (BREMBO pads for Daily Driving) (DTC-70, DTC-60 pads for track)
NOTE: The Front ZL1 brakes have NOW been replaced by AP Racing set up with 390MM Rotor and Ferodo 3.12 pads
GOODRIDGE Stainless Steel Brake Lines (cost 196.00)
GIRODISC Titanium Brake Shields (FRONT D1382 at cost 100.00)
UPDATE: I NO LONGER use these brake pad shields above
Hi temp brake fluid (WILWOOD EXP 600 PLUS 16.9 oz – 2 bottles at 36.00 each btl)
GIRODISC Front Rotors A1-211
UPDATE: I replaced these with AP Racing 390MM J Hook Rotor

Track Brake Pads Part Numbers:
Front: HAWK DTC70 HB649U.605 (Note: these pads are slightly narrower than what is used on a STOCK ZL1 Front Rotor because of the GIRODISC smaller width )
Rear: HAWK DTC60 HB194G.570

UPDATE on Front Track Pads. I now use FERODO 3.12 compound pads

Daily Driving Brake Pads (stock BREMBO)
Front: 25940447 (Again these are slightly narrower in width to use with GIRODISC rotors)
Rear: 89047744

UPDATE: I now use FERODO 2500 pads for street on FRONT

Tires/Wheels

APEX SM-10 19 x 10.5 ET22 wheels (4) with MS 4S 305/30/19 tires (daily driving)
APEX EC-7 18 x 11 ET25 wheels (4) with Pirelli Slicks 305 660 18 (track set up) OR Michelin Slicks 30 65 18 N3 compund
200TW set up is Azenis RT660 315-30-18 tires (SQUARE) with 8MM spacers on the front

ZL1 Parts 5MM front wheel spacers (use with track wheel set up with SLICKS)

Engine mods

KOOKS 2inch Headers with OFF ROAD pipe
MAGNAFLOW Mufflers
GM Black Exhaust TIPS
FLEX FUEL sensor
ROTOFAB Air Intake
AMP 160 degree thermostat with housing
LT2 Manifold
UPDATE: Now use MSD manifold
LT5 Throttle Body
UPDATE: Now use NW 103MM TB
AMP spec’ed Heads with .660 springs
AMP Custom Spec Cam

UPDATE ON ENGINE 5-27-22

The car is NOW be powered by a FULLY forged LME 416 with AMP ported Heads and GWATNEY PERFOMANCE CAM (will post video of DYNO when this is completed) Also has MSD manifold with NW 103MM Throttle Body

Exterior Mods

ZL1 1LE style REAR wing
ZL1 1LE style front bumper extension (EOS)
EOS Carbon Fiber Side Skirts ZL1 style
ZL1 Parts Tow Hook Straps (2 front, 2 rear)
ZL1 Parts Lift PADS
Carbonaddons Rearview Mirror Cover (black carbon fiber)
Carbonaddons Door Handle Covers (black carbon fiber)
DIODE DYNAMICS LED smoked running lights

Interior Mods

Carbonaddons Door Spear on inside door panels
Carbonaddons Window Switch Cover
Carbonaddons Door Handle Cover
Carbonaddons Top of Dash Piece on top of instrument cluster
Carbonaddons Left and Right Steering Wheel Switch pieces
Carbonaddons Center Horn Button Switch
Carbonaddons bottom of steering wheel Center Piece
Carbonaddons Console Cover around Shifter
Carbonaddons AC Vent piece around CENTER AC vents
Carbonaddons Four piece lower dash pieces
Carbonaddons Cup Holder Piece
Carbonaddons Ignition Switch Cover
Carbonaddons Dash Piece AROUND the ignition switch cover
Carbonaddons Piece around entertainment center console
Lloyds Floor Mats *ULTIMAT with SS LOGOS
Weathertech Truck MAT
Blacked OUT Front and Rear Chevy Emblems
DEBADGING of all other GM emblems
GM Front and Rear color coded mud flaps
SPEEDFORM Racing Seat for PASSENGER (using stock seatbelt setup for now)
SPARCO QRT Performance Racing Seat on DRIVERS side
Planted Seat Brackets

Preferred Vendors List (alphabetical order)

ADVANCED MODERN PERFORMANCE (www.advancedmodernperforance.com)
APEX driving Academy (www.APEXHPDE.com)
APEXRACEPARTS (www.apexraceparts.com)
Bimmerworld (www.bimmerworld.com)
BMR (www.bmrsuspension.com)
CARBONADDONS (www.carbonaddons.com)
DIODE DYNAMICS (www.diodedynamics.com)
DOGHOUSE PERFORMANCE (www.DHPMSR.com)
GIRODISC (www.girodisc.com)
GM (www.gmpartsdirect.com)
Lloyd Mats (https://www.lloydmatsstore.com)
MUFFLER KING Garland 214-328-4669
SCOGGIN DICKEY (www.sdparts.com)
SPLPARTS (www.splparts.com)
Vorshlag Motorsports (Vorshlag web store (vorshlag-store.com)
Wildhammer Motorsports (www.wildhammermotorsports.com)
ZL1 ADD ONS (www.zl1addons.com)

What I would do DIFFERENTLY

You CAN NOT get enough track time in if you goal is to get better at road racing. Currently I am doing 2-3 track days a month. All along the way my instructors emphasized the importance of this but I never really bought into it. Then I took their advice and noticed an ever so gradual improvement in my driving ability. The BEST modification is the DRIVER.

The SPLPARTS front bumpsteer parts I have decided were NOT really necessary because I didn’t really have that much bumpsteer with stock setup anyway.

The preferred FRONT sway bar would have been HOTCHKIS but they were having supply issues. The BMR did work out OK but it requires the use of a special order part for some BILLET BEARING holders because the stock ones that come with the bar standard are POS and make the bearing split under very high load forces.

I tried to use as many SPLPARTS as I could but they as well were having supply issues hence the use of the still VERY GOOD BMR parts.

After screwing up the front EOS carbon fiber lip spoiler THREE times road racing I decided to paint it SATIN black so that I could easily paint it when it got scuffed or scratched. So the use of carbon fiber parts like the front lip spoiler and side skirts while are visually very attractive I would NOT do on a track car. I do have carbon fiber outside mirrors and door handles and they hold up fine since there are not near the road surface.

I was running the stock REAR spoiler for some time and reluctantly replaced it with the ZL1 1LE wing. I should have done that MOD sooner as it DOES help.

I have a SECOND set of wheels and tires specifically for the track (APEX EC7 18 x 11 with Pirelli Slicks 205 660 18). I probably SHOULD have done that SOONER than I did.

Planned MODS to go EVEN QUICKER

Heads and Cam Install should make power level 575-600 RWHP (still naturally aspirated)
UPDATE: This has been done with install of LME 416 Stroker Motor (580 RWHP)
APEX VS-5RS Forged Wheels (4 pounds lighter)
GIRODISC Front Rotors (4 pounds lighter)
UPDATE: Replace the item above with AP Racing 390MM J Hook Front Rotor
Change to MICHELIN Slicks (soft compound)
UPDATE: I did the above

I will update this as I go along. I have no doubt I have forgotten something (LOL)

PLEASE NOTE that I am actually running NOW -3.8 to -3.9 degrees camber on FRONT. I use the settings on for BOTH track and daily driving.

BADASS MACHINE!!!

I'm all in on the driver mod as well.

Nice breakdown, and totally agree. Driver mod is KING. All else enables a bit more speed, once the driver knows how to maximize the mods and convert into lap time.

When I had my Mustnag I went down the rabbit whole wilt mods. This time I'm keeping the car stock, except for brake pads/fluid, and PURELY focusing on driver mod.

After 3 track days in this car I am currently 3rd fastest at one of my local tracks according to the best lap list. Driver mod is working, and I can't get enough :thumbup:

P.S. In addition to car mods, safety mods are also very important. SA2020 helmet, Hans, good restraints and at some point seat/cage and extinguisher. These cars are plenty fast!

BMR Sway Bar
 

Is this a fix for destroyed front sway bar bushings? I tried their stamped and billet brackets without success.


BMR Billet Steel Bearing Holders for FRONT Sway bar (SBB010 is a SPECIAL Order part from BMR NOT in catalog, cost is around 300.00))

Well YES it is. I havent had an issue with it. But like I said if you can get your hands on a HOTCHKIS front sway bar then that would be better. Recently someone posted up one for sale. In fact here it is: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...=hotchkis+sway

That SBB010 part was developed specifically for those that actively compete with their cars. That was what I was told by the tech support guys at BMR. I have used it for about six months now.

Please keep us posted on the results. I was one of the guys that kept tearing up front sway bar bushings.

YEP I remember that. OK will do.

I'm shocked you don't have one of the most important mods for this platform, ZL1 1LE solid cradle bushings. No gain in NVH as long as you dont mess with diff bushings, and you gain a ton of cradle stability

ZACH,

The general feedback I was getting was that you get ALOT more NVH with that MOD and I didnt really want that since I do daily drive the car. The MAIN reason I got rid of my ZL1 1LE after three months is that it rode like a DUMP TRUCK on the city streets down here which are fairly decent compared to most places.

But, I am more than willing to try it if it will make the car faster on the track without a harsh penalty to daily driving it.

im pretty much at the same point as you lol i want more engine mods cam heads e85 msd but im in cali so everything is hard to get and pricey and hard to deal with all the smog shit

Yeah its hard to believe that HOT RODDING got its start in CALI and Now because of REGS SMOG CHECKS and such it is probably one of the hardest states to have a hot rod in.

I feel very fortunate that I live in TEXAS. We certainly could use your weather though!!! LOL

haha yea weather is awesome we track here year round shit sunday is going to be 85 in febuary! pool time haha

OK Just had a nice talk with the BMR techie guys and they have a kit that they recommend for a dual purpose car in regards to the rear cradle bushing kit. The stock number is BK063 and it is not entirely solid mounts in that it DOES have some DELRIN bushings along with some aluminum bushings.
This KIT is called a REAR CRADLE LOCKOUT KIT. I think I am going to try this kit. NO INCREASE in NVM (Noise, Vibration, Harshness) is what they are claiming.

UPDATE: I went ahead and ordered BK063 today. I should have it installed prior to my next track date which is Feb 19th. I will feed back HERE my impressions.

The other choice for more of a track oriented ONLY car would be their part number BK062 which is basically identical to the ZL1 1LE set up. That set up has ALL SOLID bushings and has a very noticeable increase in NVM like what you have in the ZL1 1LE. So thats a NO GO for me.

BMR link is HERE:
https://bmrsuspension.com/?page=prod...=121&catid=472

I have the bk062 kit installed, and I can say I saw absolutely zero increase in NVH. Absolutely zero regrets installing it. Just my two cents ...