Brake Pad Repalcement
 

I was thinking of replacing pads myself.

Is it anything more then removal of the old, compressing the piston then inserting the new pads?

Does the system need to be bled after? Do the factory pads use stop squeak or whatever that stuff is I remember putting on back the last time I changed pads on a car?

Dont mean to sound ignorant but I do track this car and can do the work but dont want to overlook something and have a problem that could have been avoided.

Thanks
Pat

I just replaced my front pads a couple of days ago. Took me about an hour. Didn't encounter any difficulties. You will need a 1/2" socket to remove the bolt holding that middle bar and a punch to release the pins. As I removed the old pad, I just push it against the pistons and that usually gets them back in. If not, there is plenty of room to get your hand in there to push them back.
No requirement to bled and I did not use the anti-squeak.
When you put that middle bar back in, make sure the bolt is fully seated. There should not be any gap between the bolt head and caliper.

I always syphon some fluid out so that when you compress the pistons to make room for the new pads, you do not overflow on the back flush. (Same as I do when I hit the track...I never keep at the max level to allow for expansion when the fluid heats up). Never have had a overflow yet. I would say that its not a bad idea to full flush... or at least semi-bleed with a Motive anytime you are doing pads. (I also do it before any track event.....).

I found this helpful when I did mine, Good luck!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=siPG...ature=youtu.be

Much appreciated everyone!

Thanks and have a Merry Christmas all.

Pat

The "bridge bolt" is actually 13mm but of course 1/2" fits fine. Get a small punch to gently tap the retaining pins and reverse the procedure to reinstall. Use the old pad and a large screwdriver one at a time to replace pads. Don't remove both worn pads before depressing the pistons. Put one new pad in place then repeat for the other pad. The master cylinder siphoning isn't necessary unless the reservoir is filled nearly to the top. Crack the top on the master cylinder before depressing the pistons. Easy procedure, you can handle it!

Absolutely agree with Stephen. Do one side at a time!!

Sounds good. Ill order the pads and do it.

Thanks again.

Scoggin-Dickey had them on sale for a great price a couple of weeks ago. Check and see if they still are. Not going to get them any cheaper.

Dumb question maybe... do the pads wear evenly on the ZLE? In other words, do you need to replace all pads front and rear at same time, or do the fronts wear out quicker?

Most cars front pads wear faster, just physics really.

I have always felt that if you replace one set, replace all of them for piece of mind. I did it to my 17 1SS and 2012 RAM 2500 CTD, all I can say about replacing the fronts if your going to do DIY and turn the rotors, be prepared to spend a lot of time trying to loosen up the bolts that hold the calipers, it took me a day on each side to get them off so I could the rotors turned.

No need to replace all 4 at once unless you're switching compounds or the rears are wearing as quick as the fronts are. Just extra wasted money.

I ordered everything and am going to replace them this weekend.

Whats in the tube for the rear brakes? Is it anti squeak? If so does it go on the plate or directly on the metal part of the pad?

Appreciated
Pat

Also Part #s for front and rear in case anyone needs them.