Throttle closing during burnout
 

At the strip this week i had this happen 5 times. With TC off, id rev to 5k or so, dump the clutch and hop on the brake pedal. Id have my foot on the gas and could feel the throttle close before i could get the tires spinning. Then id depress clutch to prevent it from dying, and roll out of the box and would wheel hop a bit on top of everything. This fiasco combined with 2.0 60s on hoosier DRs ruined the night. What am i missing here?

Are u holding the button until stabil is off too? Make sure they’re wet and dump it in 2nd

if you heel toe it won't do that. if the car is moving at all, i think it is stability control cutting power.

Thank you both. I have held the button down for 7+ seconds and the message didnt change. Maybe the LT1 has a different/lesser stability control? Ill have to try the heel toe, never done that before. The rolling forward combined with spinning does make sense as far as upsetting the cars nannys. Id practice in a parking lot, but my R888Rs were more than the Hoosiers. I appreciate the input.:thumbup:

You wont get a message, just both the traction control and stabilitrac lights will come turn on.

I held the button with my street tires and did get BOTH lights on my cluster, never with my radials on 17s. Wonder if the TPMS sensors had something to do with it.

I heard you have to have all 4 sensors or none or things can get wacky with just two.

Wow, that is a great solution. Are the sensors glued to the inside, or simply placed in there? I may copy you, id like to put this issue in the rear view. Thanks for your input.

Heads up, I’ve had a PVC tank like that explode with similar pressure. Not constant either.

I’d recommend using slip couplers (don’t have the stop ridge in the middle) to reinforce the pipe. Spread the glue on the pipe & push the couplers on.

I also recommend pre-drilling the cap circumferentially & use self tapping screws to prevent the end caps from coming off. Put PVC glue on the threads to prevent leakage.

Another safety margin is to also reduce your pipe diameter to reduce internal surface area. A 1.5” pipe should be quite adequate & would be exponentially stronger.

Schedule 40 PVC waste/pressure pipe has a rating of 260 psi, so that exploding is damn unlikely. If you’re still worried, just use Schedule 80 PCV/CPVC. :)

Most Sch 40 waste/ drain has notices to not pressurize. So much so I have not seen pressure rated pipe at any supplier around me, Menards, local hardware stores, etc.

Doing some searching I see you are correct. I’ll have to order some of the higher rated stuff.

Go to a real plumbing supply house and you’ll easily get pressure rated SCH40 PVC. On anything important I specify SCH80, and if there is any temp involved (consistently over 120 degrees) I’ll specify SCH80 CPVC. Might be overkill, but have never had an issue.

I’ll be the first to say don’t use pvc for air pressure. It is unsafe at any pressure above head pressure which on a normal house rough in is about 10-15 psi. Which is common practice in house plumbing. Testing is done with water pressure. Most case quanity boxes for fittings like charolette brand says on the box Do not test with air. I’ve seen a lot of air pressure lines for compressors run with PVC. It’s all good until it shatters from somebody hitting it and takes shrapnel from it. IMHO galvanized or brass would be a better choice. If tech at the drag strip here saw that they would flag it for sure .

I cross the border regularly to race... I think I will skip carrying around a pressurized pipe bomb looking device. =P