A10 1st-2nd upshift
 

I scoured some of the other A10 threads but didn't see any specific about my particular questions.

1. In full auto, I notice that the car under full throttle will short shift 1st-2nd not mater the mode. Haven't put a cam on the dash to get the specific point, but it never will take it above 6k rpms.

2. In manual mode, I will hit the rev limiter even if I hit the paddle to upshift 2-300rmps before it.

Is this typically behavior of just the 1st-2nd upshift? The rest of the shifts happen at redline in the 1/4 and 1/2 mile.

This has been discussed several times actually. The general consensus is that the A10 short shifts 1-2 simply becuase the revs come up too fast for it to happen any other way without hitting the redline. This is evidenced by the fact that you say you can't even make the shift in manual mode without hitting the limiter.

I know from older aggressively geared high torque engines like old Pontiac 455s, I ran faster short shifting 1st and getting to full load sooner in 2nd. Those engines didn’t like to rev tho

Try manually shifting around 6k rpms, see if it'll shift before hitting the limiter. I've seen videos of the short shift and it looks like it shifts around 5k. I wonder if managing to shift any higher would be beneficial at all.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cFsK4qgeg70

Is it spinning when it does this short shift? Mine will do the same thing with the A8 on the street, even at the track with slicks on if it spins too hard it will short shift. The track issue has only happened a couple times if its on a questionable track.

Forum member posted BMWM.D. Posted this up awhile back. He was showing us what the stick shift points are.

“This is obviously just one of many. If my math is right, if the transmission shifts at 6200 on the 1-2 shift as the stock table implies, that would result in the revs falling to about 3950. This thing has a big RPM drop on the 1-2 shift, which is actually really surprising to me considering how close many of the gears are. It would seem a 6500 RPM shift out of 1st would help with this.”

That's pretty much what I see out of mine when it shifts for me. Also got a 3.6 0-60 and wondered if the claimed 3.4 was being done manually, but I could never get it to actually without hitting the limiter.

There is no reason on earth the engineer's cannot program the 1-2 shift to happen at 6500rpm. Now, what the tach reads is a different story. Typically the tach reading is behind the actual engine rpm by at least 100 rpm, maybe 200 rpm. The engineers probably are trying to protect the trans from shifting at the optimum horse and torque going into 2nd gear .. to protect 2nd gear. For all out performance, each shift should be at 6500 (engine rpm) That would piss me off if I bought a 8 speed or a 10 speed and the 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 shifts were all short at wot leaving it in drive.

If the car is in fact programed to shift 1-2 at 6200 rpm, tach is probably showing a shift at 6k. Any good tuner will automatically raise the redline 200 rpm ( for a guy that is seeking every ounce of power and shifting as close to the redline as possible with out hitting the fuel cut off in a manual trans car)

But the 1-2 shift doesn't even happen at 6200 or anywhere near it. From that video, it looked like it happened just above 5k rpms.

I short shifts 2nd to third also, just a little higher but still under 6k. Maybe that's why none of these zl1s will get into the 10's. My A8 shifts at 6350 on the button everytime.

Just went back and looked at my logs at the track. One time it spun the slicks and short shifted at 5900 and then 6350 on all the wot shifts.

Mine shifts around 6200-6300 on the 1-2 unless the car spins.

Use the shifter to make the shift not the paddles. My A8 short shifts auto mode, but I can hit the 1-2 perfect using the shifter in manual mode. I know you are referencing the A10 but it should not be all that different in this case.

The commanded Shift rpm is only 1 of the variables. The shift mph is the 2nd variable. Most competent tuners set the shift mph low enough to give the ECM enough time to make the shift by commanded RPM. The 3rd variable is the part throttle shift mph. The last 2-3 cells in the part throttle should match the WOT mph shift tables.

My A8 is set to shift 1-2 @ 6400rpm, but the commanded mph is set clear down at 19mph, the shift actually happens around 5500rpm everytime. Which tells me the shift mph needs to be 25-26mph. I do not want to void my warranty so I have not tuned it yet...so for now I manually shift using the shifter and not the paddles. It works well, but I am sure with the ECM properly tuned it would be even quicker.

Fwiw, There is absolutely no reason why the A10 can not hit its target shift point properly. My anemic 4l60e with a shift kit hits its shifts @ 6800rpm on time everytime in my 4th gen. This is GM's bandaid bullshit to help cover thier ass on Warranty. Torque management out the ass combined with short shifts on the 1-2 to help reduce warranty claims.