Tires w/ High HP Applications
 

Hello guys, its been a while since I posted here so I've lost track of basically all the builds and convos in here. I'm sure this has been asked before but couldn't pinpoint a way to search.

Anyway, I'm curious to see what people are driving around with for setups that are over 900rwhp and 900rwtq.

Let me explain... I have a drag pack... however; I'm not looking to race, nor want to be driving to car shows or long drives on them.

I know people suggest R888's but all I've seen is tires are super loud and rain performance is still bad anyway so in my view I might as well drive on the micky's. (Which I really don't want to).

I currently am on PSS 4s, had also the cup2's... nothing is even close to hold. I lightly press gas in second and the car immediately goes snap sideways.

So, I find myself just driving super slow and in fear of even overtaking another car since, basically can't press on the gas.

Anything new out there that I may have missed in the 2+ years of been out of the game?

I run R888R on the street… hate running a drag pack on the street. Others love the NT555R2 which I haven’t tried yet.

Honestly, get yourself a Smoothboost. Simply dial down the boost for street use and dial up full kill at the track. No brainer.

It seems you're on track with those Toyos. It sounds like if you wanted to run on the OEM wheels, you could also try the 20" MT ET SSs, too. I've heard those are pretty good. Maybe some DRs on the OEM wheels are worth trying.

I'm not near your power, but on ET Street SSs and a drag pack, doing digs on the street just beat those tires up. I learned that they tend to ball-up doing that too much, and traction goes out the window (which I verified). Subsequently - the fix was just finding some clean concrete (e.g. my driveway, lol), and doing a minor burnout, which cleaned the balls-off, and traction improved. I still couldn't go WOT from a dig, and I still had traction issues from a 40-roll in 4th gear, but it was better than OEM GYs...

I think there are guys on Nitto DRs (King') and OEM wheels that like them.

MT ET Street R 325/50R15 w/26#

My Toyo 345/30ZR19 are useless on the road below say 60-70 mph

Hey Josh, it's been a while. I was just reading and catching up on your build which I see you're 3.0 now!

Smooth boost is new, never heard of that before. Will look into it. Sound like the boost controller of some sort.

I just love how quiet the Michelins are but its way to dangerous.
All I hear about the toyo's is how loud they are and last my OCD doesn't want Michelins up front and toyos out back,

I already have MT ET'R's on my drag pack. Im trying to stay away from that.

Oh I know that feeling, when I was on my LT4 setup 700whp i got caught by florida storms on a 1:30 drive on my Drag pack... Manage to make it home, but I said never again. but then again in Florida it always rains in summer so you never know.

Yeah, I already have a drag pack w/ drag radials... I was just looking for something that doesn't make the car completely useless while on the street setup while also staying away from the noisy Toyo's.

Anyway, Afterall this time, it seems like the "best" option is still the nittos or toyos, and still will be not good enough on these HP levels but im sure definitely better than the Michelins.

Alas, the tire industry has not been able to keep increasing per-tire traction, so cars moved to AWD for very high horsepower applications.

One either compromises severely on the street beyond 700-ish rwhp by running crazy drag tires or slicks, or if not, adding more horsepower simply reduces usable accelerator pedal travel...

Yeah always upgrading something my friend. Welcome back to the board. :happy0180:

I think you’re better off scaling down the power a bit on the street and the Smoothboost is perfect for that. I usually run around 750-800 WHP on the street and the R888R is surprisingly good there (but louder than many would like). I think you’d like the 555R2 (NOT G2!) honestly and will give them a try myself at some point. But if you’re at 900 WHP on a Whipple 2.9, then you’re spinning it pretty hard and the drawback will be nasty midrange torque on the hit that you really cannot control…ask me how I know. :lol:

Agreed! :thumbup:

Both the Toyos and the Mickey's have terrible traction in the wet. Both are terrible below say 40°. But the Mickey's have much better traction in the dry. It all just depends on how you use the car.

I would go with the 555r2's over the 888's. Much nicer driving tire with similar traction capabilities.

I have liked my Atturo az850dr tires so far. I have never driven my car in the rain but have left a car wash and they definitely don't like water. I may try the 555r2s next... however, I am not a fan of the available sizes or lack of rim protection. Those are the main reasons I went with the 850s this go around.

Regardless of the tires, I recommend strongly staying out of boost in any degree of wet conditions, better yet, leave it in the garage if there is any suspicion of it getting wet....

Having said that, with what you have invested already, it's only a small expenditure (relatively speaking) further to get some form of quality traction control. I ran ProEFI on my 5th Gen, and it was amazing.... My street tires were the Good Year Eagle F1 Supercar G3's and I never had any issue on the street.... Granted, I couldn't put anywhere near full power down... It would dump boost, pull timing, or whatever it had to do to keep the fronts and rears spinning at the same speed.

There are other systems out there, but it is impossible to put full power to the ground on an asphalt roadway, not at your 900/900 power levels...

An option if you wanna harass with LEO's is the Hoosier Road Racing Slick I ran at the mile, with over 2000 RWHP. They are DOT stamped, though there is no "tread." Concrete track and I was still spinning at over 200 in 5th gear.... We loosened the traction control the faster we went to free up the power...

The trade off of big power is limitations on the street.... It isn't worth it to get sideways and end up wadding your car up.... I cant recommend a traction control device strongly enough...

Interesting, it looks like a great product, but I'm trying to understand how it's working.

Having a quick look at the SmoothBoost website, all I can see is that it's electronically controlling the (previously vacuum operated) bypass. As we know the standard vacuum bypass is operating only at lowish revs (say up to 2000 rpm).

So to 'dial down boost' is the Smooth Boost now partially opening the bypass across the whole rev range? Doesn't that reduce volume in bypass rather than boost pressure? And what does Whipple think of this? Any issues for S/C operation/durability?