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One can spend tons of $ without making much difference and even making things worse vs better (been there done it). Then things become complicated in a hurry, while your wallet gets thinner and new parts get sold off at 50 cents on a dollar :) Frankly, you could put a red stripe on a hood and go a second faster. In other words, a driver putting a really good lap together and gaining time with mods not playing any role in the outcome. So, there is that to consider, especially if you cant reliably FEEL and hence judge each mod. Going forward, you'll have a faster car due to a bigger blower and slightly different weight balance (I assume). This will bring new challenges of faster speeds from which to start corner entries, etc. Albeit on your track this may not matter as much, due to its config. PS Note that GM recommends 2.5F and 2.0R for ZLE. So not surprised they gave ya this rear camber if you asked for ZLE values, albeit i think most ZLE owners run a higher F camber. Bottom line, i would judge its effectiveness based on tire wear and since you haven't commented on this subject per se, i assume it was alright? |
spl parts just announced they will be doing a black friday sale 20% off if anybody wants to grab some!
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Yes there’s definitely trust that SPL knows what they are doing but I don’t think it’s a far-fetched assumption either. They also said that their tension rods would give me the ability to increase caster, independently of camber, to somewhere between 8.5 And 9.5 which is what they claim a lot of guys tracking the Camaro are at. Apparently without this product the caster is tied to the camber which is why I am now at 7.6 up from my original 6.9 because I’ve increased the camber to -2.5 |
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Is there a code or something? |
i saw it on facebook they said keep posted for more details
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He said he would send me and/or my alignment shop the specs on how much adjustment was needed. |
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Using the stock adjustment, I don't see how setting camber using the factory adjustment could change caster. That doesn't really make sense. On my 1LE, going from the as-delivered -1.4/-0.9 (left/right) camber to -2.7 on both sides using the stock camber adjustment didn't change my caster one single bit. It read 7.6 and 7.3 before and after the camber change. That's what we'd expect. Also, it's not clear that normal alignment machines can accurately read caster or steering axis inclination because there is no single pivot point defined by a single lower ball joint. Instead, there are two ball joints (one for each link) and a virtual pivot point defined by their instant center. But the problem is that as the steering is turned, that virtual pivot point moves...a lot. We could define static caster using the virtual pivot point. However, an alignment machine infers caster from the change in camber as the steering is cycled through its range, and that would not be accurate for our cars because that pivot point is moving. This all boils down to: I'd be interested to know the basis for measuring the caster that track drivers are using. I'd also be interested to know why more is better. Typically, the benefit of extreme caster only matter with extreme steering angles, such as autocross use. More than 7.5 or so is starting to get into the extreme range. So what benefit does 8.5-9.5 give on a road course? |
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I'm quoting what the guy from SPL said, so I can't comment on whether or not he is right. My track has 19 turns in a 1 minute and 20 second lap so it is corner heavy and technical. This could all be a waste of money but only one thing is for sure, he definitely wants mine! |
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PS GM sells a lowering kit for a non 1LE SS without any specs re changing caster. PSS By design, the more caster the less responsive steering, the less responsive car = the more understeer. No race cars run such high caster, unless they are mid/rear engine cars. To the contrary, they usually run less than our stock caster to make them as responsive as possible. |
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And good to know! Thanks They also offer a rear Toe lockout kit that apparently stops the alignment from getting out of whack and causing premature tire wear |
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thats the only spl part i have so far but will be getting more in future! |
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I also forgot they offered lowering kits from factory without roll centre correction. |
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Speaking of tire wear: increased caster can cause it, due to delayed responses (on the front of course). Cheers! |
I have Vorshlag camber plates and run -3* in the front. There are two caster settings on the plates, Stock (7.2* measured on mine) and more(measured 9.2* on my car). so it seems that it's a 2* difference.
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What exactly are you trying to fix handling wise? You knocked off a tremendous 3 seconds of your laptime with stickier tires and improved driving alone. Given your track config, i would not do anything that - even remotely: 1) reduces responsiveness of the car 2) increases tire wear Remember, fix has to be based on what a driver feels, not what some guy tells you, that sells parts. I suspect if he sold shocks he would insist you swap those as well, to match the springs. Etc, etc. If you start listening to others vs yourself, the list will be infinite and your car at an ever changing state of flux. And eventually you may start taking parts out, because it doesnt feel right anymore. If you want more camber, just get camber plates! Those and rear toe lock out make sense. However, if ya run 2.5 and 2.0, adjust up based on YOUR tire wear and do it in small increments (on the front, obviously) lest you can ruin a pair of F tires in a day (ive seen it done first hand). More is not always better. It all depends on a venue, driving style, tire, etc. So, thats another thing YOU must pay attention to as a driver and adjust accordingly. Not "some guy" that has never driven your car and/or your track. Bottom line: it is your wallet. But even if ya have plenty of spare cash burning a hole in it, spend it wisely and spend it on items that will give ya best return on investment. My cents anyway. Cheers! |
GMG, i had mentioned this before: if i were you and since laptimes are your obvious focus, i would seriously consider ZLE DSSV suspension (on sale now, see link).
This would lower your car, give you many benefits of coilovers design and Trans Am tested racing solution from one of the top shelf pro racing houses on the planet. Zero guessing here. Sure, your DD ride quality would suffer, but then again id imagine tons of ZLEs never see a race track and folks do street those cars successfully. Not only this, but this would position you perfectly for another future go faster mod: aero (which requires much stiffer springs and shocks to go with them). For the price of all the parts that you are being recommended to purchase (more or less), you can do a wholesale, complete and proven suspension upgrade designed for the car. Plus position for the future. Food for thought. https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/84352121.html |
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I too run high load tracks and personally 2.6F works great for me. Having said that, i also run a stock G3 tire. Cheers! |
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Agree re corner balancing, but none of the cars being discussed here have coilovers so it is a moot point. Cheers! |
SPL just went live with their Black Friday 20% off and free shipping! I ordered toe Links with eccentric lock out.
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nice ! you will love them |
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But seriously, can somebody translate SPL statement that eccentric lockouts MUST be accompanied by adjustable lower control arms? |
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haha nope just support the ones that support me and especially nice usa made products!! and i have them on my car and i dont have the adjustable lower control arms why would you need both? |
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But, seriously, that's what their website says: you MUST have adjustable control arms. Hence my original request for somebody to translate it. |
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some stuff free some stuff discounted it pays to work in the auto industry... and i think thats a misprint |
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Maybe contact your buds there and ask them to remove it then? Or explain it. Either one... |
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