**startup VID** SBE LLSR with FED custom TFS262cc..it begins
 

****Startup vid at page 2****

New build started! I had nothing better to do, so I started my build early in Winter instead of Spring!


I had decent results with my 231-236 TSP cam, which I loved and I would choose the same cam if I had to do it over again. Ended up making 519rwhp on a dynojet (595bhp). Trapped 123.6 mph best mph but never could do better than 2.0sec 0-60, tire and track conditions were far from optimal, 3900ish RW. 11.90 best E.T. Too bad I couldnt try to beat that, but heh life goes on, need more hp! :bonk:



Current mods;
-Vararam DRX with air scoop
-2inch SW headers&HFC with NPP
-stock H pipe
-U/D pulley Powerbond iirc
-Tick .105 wall 7.4 PR with Ti retainers and their 660 springs
-Mini Spec clutch (18lbs)
-Goertz1 short runner intake, 102mm BBK TB
-remote Pat G tune
-melling hi pressure pump


The new setup;
-changing for a Fluid Damper 25%; not bought yet
-1209x springs; seats, retainers and shims to determine
-I have the good fortune to get a free Cam Motion 239-253 680-680 lift from a very knowledgeable gearhead haha
-1.8 T&D rockers (720 lift baby haha)
-TFS 255 custom designed by FED and end up as 262cc, 67cc chambers
-0.40 MLS Cometic gaskets which will get me to 11.33 CR
-Isky EZ solid roller lifters
-ICT billet 1/2 spacers for valve covers
-IWIS C5R chain from summit
-new cam bolts, retainers plates/bolts
-Meziere WP(shortbelt)
-91oct :(
-PR size will be the biggest I can fit



Recently I read about oil pressure problems with solid rollers that got me worried, but with very good quality lifters, it seems its not a problem. I decided to put on a new retainer plate as it can lead to possible lower press if the gasket behind the plate is cracked/damaged. 12$ worth it! Now the engine at idle is 49-52psi and rev to 6800-7000 got me 60-62 on the dashlogic. It was really cold outside around 23F. Running Amsoil Zrod 10w30, since the cam swap.


I aint got no worry for timing chain, but I decided to step up to Iwis C5R, which is 89$ instead of 140$+ for the other brand.



I ordered everything to degree cam, measure springs heights(1.800 for the 1209x), measure lash and what not. might need shims for the springs but I gotta measure 1st. Gonna try to use the 1209x with the FED seats and retainers they came with. I might go with a steel retainer instead too.



I installed my 1st cam 3 years ago and it has been a blast. For now, the lifters look brand new with almost zero scuffing. It show how good those engines are; 3 years cammed with 640/615lift on stock rockers and lifters and its all good. I havent inspected the valves tip, but last summer they were perfectly fine when I put the 660 springs.



HP GOAL

As for the goal, I am shooting for 590rwhp! Call me crazy :D This is on a dyno jet, and I'm confident with all the extra that I can reach this. This should go to 7800 on the dyno. Shooting for 129-131mph and 10.9.


I might buy a crank scraper before the summer but for now I have enough invested.

Thoughts on the solid roller setup;
Price..
I think I went the most expensive way because I'm gonna turn more rpm and requires more quality parts; better lifters are more than twice the cost of 'basic' solid lifters(400$). Adj. Rockers cost a bunch and I didn't know Harland had some adj. Version around 900$. Cheaper than 1400$+ T&D/Jesel. Springs are reasonable though, for now.

Someone could run a lower lift cam(660ish) on stock shimmed rockers, use a long runner intake with a decent sized solid cam and that would make a killer setup for cheap. Even with stock heads. Save 1400 on rockers, save 400-800 on lifters, save 1000-2000 on int manifold and keep stock heads and maybe bump up the compression!! 1sick_eg got 550rwhp/500rwtq out of a setup similar but with ported heads on a plastic manifold, unported!

I thought about keeping stock heads and even bought some ported stickers. I was ready to flycut. I decided to invest in cyl heads and let go of the flycutting idea, mostly to save the work.

I still have a LS3 int manifold ported & rod mod that I will test at one point too...I am curious to see what kind of power it'll make.


BUILD PROGRESS; 1 head removed

As for the build, i always refer to Robert's way! I found a very good video too on youtube; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clovrv1NOR8&t=631s


as for lash there is a bunch but heres one I liked ; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uVbBEMK0re8


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6dMldzy-768 Cool old guy explaining shimming and installed height.



I read 1 million threads on ls1tech and here too. I read Josef Potak ls book which is really a must have to begin. Got a nice advanced mechanic math book that was really good too.



Gonna post some pictures soon.


The bad news is that I wont dyno the car until spring, unless I trailer it, which is a possibility...

Sounds killer. Check out Improved Racing for a crank scraper. It is a quality piece.

That's what I want!!

I got one. It's a nice piece. Easy install. They make so many different fitments. If your going that high with the rpms, I would definitely get one.

Awesome cant wait to see this thing go! Wish you could get 4.88 gears its gonna need it.....

You can, it just costs 6 grand lol.

+ the TH400...

Yeah it's gonna be slow for the HP on a track for sure...roll monster though!

Haha...maybe less if I sell everythang!

Niiiice! Gonna be fun once you get all this done, and looks like you have a solid plan! Can't wait to see what your results are with all of this :thumbup:

Ohh yess..I hope to do the job correctly !

Here's a trick I did to extract My ASP or other brand UD don't remember; with UD pulley the puller can't grab the inside and the metal rods aren't long enough in the kit. I used a long 3/8 ratchet extension to pull it out and it worked like a charm! I have insert the extension in the crank then used the smallest rod in the kit.

Here's some bad news; the retainer plate with the recessed bolts is POS!! I broke 3 torx bit in the bolts and chew the top of 1 bolt. 2 are off and 2 can't be removed.
Gonna have to drill my way out of this situation!

My advice; replace your retainer plate by an old one with regular GM bolts or ARP. I found those 3 part numbers for the old ones;
-12589016 gm (newer style is 12556437)
-MAHLE B31822
-Victor Reinz B31822
-ARP 8740 GM LS Cam Retainer Plate Bolts 134-1002 (I suggest that you should validate those bolts PN with your shop, did a quick search and that's I found)


Be careful; dealer will send you the newer style one even if you ask them the older 'NOT recessed" ones. You need to buy the older style bolts. Trying to find a PN for the old bolts.

As for the rest, removed the other head and a dowell fell of somewhere but I was lucky just to pass the magnetic stick and catch it without seeing a thing! More coolant on this side and it fell in the head bolts holes so cleaning is gonna take a while. I duck taped a straw to my shop vac and suck the coolant out and it worked ok! Probably need bigger straw, like the McDonald's ones. I found that the head bolts were kinda loose, but some were harder to remove. Just a 1/2 breaker bar will do the trick and a longer 3/8 to finish.

I used my jack bar to get the crank bolt loose and I could see the 1/2 breaker bar flexing!! It did not break but almost I would say!!

if you have air compressor blow the bolt holes out, as far as the stripped heads go take your torx bit with an extention and tap the bolt with rubber hammer or dead blow to see if it comes loose. back in the old days we used a hand held impact to break bolts loose. I always give bolts a crack with the proper tool . I helps break things loose before you turn

Good thanks I'll give it a try. My friend told me to heat up those bolts with a mini torch.


So as a general advice, heat up those before trying them or /and hit em with a rubber mallet. them drill em...