Making amp rack in spare tire location
 

I’ve seen other people take out the foam inserts and make a wood amp rack in that location. I am planning on doing this too. Was wondering if anyone has had any problems doing it this way? Mainly lack of airflow or amp heating up too much in the summer time. I am planning on mounting a Pioneer GM-D8701.

That amp looks like one where the lid is the heatsink. there aren't too many warnings in the manual, so I bet the risk of overheating is low. it doesn't even tell you not to mount it sideways or upside down.
if summer heat is a concern you can always wire in some hard drive cooling vans to push air across the vents.

I had the amp and the fuse box moved...used the entire compartment...going on 3+ years...never had an issue with heat



https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=497975

Do you have pics of where you move the fuse box and the factory out?

Sorry i do not...amp was moved to left side behind the trim and mounted to wheel well...fuse box to the right side..to the left of the battery and mounted to wheel well

I relocated mine too for a nice clean slate. Amp moved right and fuse block moved left. used Riv-Nuts for securing them. Haven't had any issues.

It's been a little over 2 years and it hasnt overheated yet. Hasnt even really been too hot to touch either, no matter how hard I crank it. I'm sure the load on your amp may make a bit of a difference.

I really want to do this but I've got a few questions,
1. Are the factory cables for the Bose amp and the fuse box long enough I don't have to cut anything or extend anything
2. Can you still remount the fabric side panels after moving everything. Amp and fusebox
3And can it be mounted without having to make extra holes

1. The factory cables are long enough. in fact, the amp cables almost naturally want to fall into position here. not sure why GM put it in the middle.

2. side panels fit as per stock, no modifications necessary.

3. The Amp I am sure you can get away with Velcro strips. I went overkill. I only added two riv-nuts for the fuse block to secure the bottom. the top is free standing. more than enough in my opinion.

Well ,,,i bit the bullet and tried it..the left side was a breeze..i used sheet metal screws..didnt hit anything under..but close the opposite side was a little harder..theres the fuse box and some sort of sensor..im guessing its for the rear sensor.. nothing is touching the battery . it is securely attached by zip ties..now to make templet for amp rack..im planning running 2 amps going to individual subs..

looks good!

does your floor liner sag with weight on it due to the foam thingy not being there to support the middle?

I'm planning on installing two amps do I need to do 100 ANL fuse per amp since that's what they call for and then do a 200anl fuse from the battery to the distribution I'm having a hard time finding information on this also the guy that posted asking about the second bottom I was just going to get like a support beam that goes across it that's a solid piece of aluminum or something really light and what did you use for the base on your wooden amp holder cuz I want to make one that fits the whole bottom inside it looks pretty sharp though

I'm planning on running zero gauge from the battery to a distributor and then four gauge to both amps fused on the zero gauge and on the 4 gauge also running a distributor block minus fuses from the ground which would be a zero to two smaller 4 gauge wires that would be the grounds for the amps Will the LC i2 remote start both amps