Replacing 6x9 front door 1SS non bose speakers
 

I just picked up the Kicker 41KSC6934 speakers https://www.crutchfield.com/S-a0jN0u...41KSC6934.html Any reason I should exchange them for the Alpine SPE-6090? http://www.bestbuy.com/site/alpine-6...?skuId=1807206
I'll be using stock power for a while, but would like to find a nice 4 or 4 channel with sub out later that will fit under the trunk tray.

Why not get components and put the tweeter in the dash?

I'm gonna get a separate tweeter to replace the dash one. Also have some MB Quarts to go in the rear, but I believe they will definitely need some power.
You know, I may look for some 6x9 separates with or without separate tweeters. It does look like two tweeters would be a little overbearing. Hopefully there's something good/decent at the same price as I paid for these ($75)

Well, based on a test of the 6x9's by another member ctrlz , per his pretty accurate tests, the freg range in the doors are limited to about 40-200hz, making 2 and 3 way 6x9's rendered useless..no top end freqs will get to them...

Dang, looks like I should return them. Thanks

The Kicker KS is a far better speaker than the Type E alpine. Unless you bypass the factory amp, it will only play bass. Component speakers are best. I used infinity kappa perfects and bypassed the factory amp.

Where does above 200hz go? The tweeter?

He tested on Bose. This thread is for non Bose.

Correct.
My method was pretty primitive and can be easily repeated for the non-Bose.
I used an android app on my phone called ToneGen (freeware). It has a bunch of preset tones. I played them over Bluetooth and used the balance/fader control to isolate some of the speakers. Frankly the door 6x9's are the easiest to isolate because you can open the door and there are no other door-mounted speakers, so you can really hear what the door 6x9's are getting.
You can isolate other speakers by throwing a pile of magazines over them, if you want to hear, for example, what the front center is getting compared to left/right.
None of this is as accurate as using a good SPL meter or oscilloscope, but car audio is loaded with compromises to begin with. The listening environment is obviously noisy, to the point where circuit manufacturers can tolerate relatively high levels of distortion compared to home audio stuff. ST Micro chips are probably in our cars (very common) and their car stuff runs at 10% THD.
http://www.mouser.com/new/stmicroele...da-amplifiers/
So I think my ear test method is probably good enough, and the price is right!

That is a good test! I can almost guarantee the fronts are getting a full signal in the 1SS non Bose because there are only 4 wires coming from the factory amp to the fronts. They are:

Pin 5 BU Left Front+
Pin 6 YE Right Front+
Pin 13 BN/BU Left Front-
Pin 14 YE/BK Right Front-

On the 1SS non Bose there is probably some sort of crossover at the speaker that send lows to the woofer and highs to tweeter. Component speakers should be the way to go. On the Bose they have either done the same thing with a crossover or they have sent a separate set of speaker wires from the Bose amp to the tweeter and separate set to the door woofer with the amp sending 40-200hz through the woofer wires and highs through the tweeter wires.

We need somebody to write up a DIY for a complete speaker replacement. Front and rear. I'm ready to do mine but seems like nobody has done it yet.

I agree. If only 4 wires there is probably a crossover somewhere down the line. Don't be surprised if it is just a capacitor series-wired with the mid/tweeters on the dash.
On the bose there is a separate pair of wires running to each speaker from the amplifier. And on the bose, we know the signal from the head unit (mylink) is already digital. So the crossovers can be done in the digital domain with no worries about power-handling.