ZL1 Addons Lift Point / Quick-Jacks questions
 

I have a set of ZL1 Add-ons Lift Points for my 2020 2SS I plan to install soon.

I know they go on the pinch weld and have set screws to hold them in place, I have a few questions:

1. Should I use some Loc-Tite? If so, which one? (I assume blue (I think))

2. Since the set screws are going to dig into the pinch weld (and scratch that paint off) should I put anything in that gap to keep it from corroding/rusting? (sealant of some sort?) If so, what is recommended?

I plan to install these to use with my Quick-Jack BL-5000SLX, I have the extensions for my 5000SLX so plan to put these blocks as far forward as I can and spaces them as far apart as I can.

3. When lifting with the Quick-Jack I assume just use one of the black rubber blocks and center it under the lift point? Any other concerns or things I should do to make things as stable as possible? If the flat rubber block the best choice?

Any advice is appreciated!

Thanks!

1) I'd suggest using blue. That reduces the risk of dropping one of the blocks as you drive down the road (bad day for your rear tires) and will be able to be removed easily, unlike red, if you ever have to remove the blocks.

2) I wouldn't mess with any sealant. If it's not a perfect seal it'll still let moisture in and likely accelerate the corrosion because it's holding moisture at the point that's unprotected. Kinda like how imperfect sealing coats on truck frames accelerate corrosion because it essentially forms pockets to keep what's corroding the steel right against the seal. IMO your better off sanding then using touch up paint if you see corrosion starting to pop up.

3) If using quick jacks, I think you'll have to use the "middle" and rear pinch weld cutouts. I don't think quick jacks are long enough to reach the front most cutout. I'm not familiar with the extensions, but when I've used quick jacks they didn't reach the front most cutout although that didn't have any issues with lifting or stability or anything like that. And yes, the single flat rubber blocks are best to use with the lift pads.

I agree with all the above. I, however, didn't use thread locker when installing my lift points and the hardware remains tight after 15 months. :smoking:

Many thanks for the feedback... That is what I was thinking on all accounts (especially #2)... Glad someone else reinforced my thoughts...

I'm hoping to be able to use the furthest forward area of the rear lift point and the very front lift point (as I have the extensions for my 5000SLX that make it a 5000EXT) but I'll certainly measure before cranking them tight to make sure what I can do... I've lifted my car many times from the center and aft lift points without the extensions (using pinchweld blocks) and it was fine, would prefer the front points if I can make them work...

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/pictu...ctureid=164205

I just make sure the gas tank is nearly full (also thought about buying a 50 lb bag of sand to throw in the back of the trunk for extra security when lifting...)

1: I lost one on my last car so I use loctite red (permanent) but in all honestly blue should work fine, just use something on the threads

2: the ends of the set screws are flat so it wont dig in to paint unless you use so much force you bend the allen wrench

3: have only had my SS vert a week and haven't had my car on my quick jacks yet so cant tell you the best way

Here's a couple pics of the jack pads installed

Thanks!

When you lost one, did it do any damage? That is my big fear about leaving these on, but I know a lot of people do without issue (I will certainly use blue Loc-Tite)

I have a QuickJack 5000EXT on order so can't speak from first hand experience, but I have read all the treads here I can find on Quickjack related to use of the pinchweld mounting points and reach dimensions of the 5000EXT (or 5000 SLX unit with the added extensions). The 5000EXT should be just long enough to reach the far front pinch weld points to the rear-most. For a bit more info, read-on:

If you mount the ZL1 Addon jack mount blocks as close together as possible (rear wheel block as far toward toward the front of vehicle as possible; front wheel block as far toward the rear as possible), they will be 66" apart. I've confirmed this is the case on my SS, with the ZL1 blocks added. The maximum lift-point block spacing on the Quickjack 5000EXT is 66", so it should just reach the ends of the ZL1 Addon blocks. One or two other forum members have reported this to be their actual experience, so sounds pretty solid.

To be clear though, there isn't going to be much room for error; you will need to carefully center the Quickjack frames front to back so the lifting blocks are perfectly positioned. If that proves to be too much of a pain in the ***, then I'll likely revert of using the middle and rear lift point as others are doing with their 5000SLX models.

Thanks, I have only lifted my 2020 2SS once with the extensions but the block I have don't allow me to place them in the proper positions, I've lifted my car multiple times with the "center" and rear lift points without issue...

I did buy the lift points so I could use the extensions and use the maximum spread lift points...

Nope, didn't even know I lost it until I went to lift the car and saw it was missing

ZL1 addons was great, they sent me a single replacement at no cost

Capt, I wouldn't worry about adding weight to the rear when using the rearmost front location. I have a 5000SLX and had the rear cradle out, w/ jackstands under the motor - just in case. The car did not shift any weight to the stands. I was pleasantly surprised.

Just out of curiosity, Captain, why did you remove your rotors? I can't imagine that you're having brake issues this early on.

I made a new pinch weld access forward of the rear access. I had to dremel out a tiny piece of plastic body work (not visible) to relocate my rear zl1 addon points. Now I can get my quick jack 5000 slx on the front lift point and not have so much unsupported front end hanging out.Attachment 1052152 This is with the jack points in the old position (and ugly winter wheels)Attachment 1052153 This is with the rear points moved forward (and still ugly winter wheels).