Car died while on tuning run
 

I should know better, but while going through the tuning process I stopped at Target with the kids, ran in and came out to a dead car. The accessories all came on, but the car wouldn’t even try to start, the check engine light was on.

I let it sit, powered off and tried again. One push turn on accessories. Next, press start button with brake pressed to start the car...the gauges looked like the engine started and I could even move from Park to drive, etc...but the car didn’t even attempt to crank.


Left it in parking lot and will try to swing by in the morning. . .most likely having it towed back home.

The only thing I see on the HP Tuner is the IaT’s were up to 172 sitting in parking lot...ideas before towing?

Did you check the error code? It will be helpful to post it here. You can read the error code on hptuner scanner.

And can you hear any cranking sound? Tictic?

Wow, sorry to hear that Russ.

Going back in a few. We made a ton of changes, so I just need to work through things...not my first rodeo, so I get it.

It almost sounded like there was a priming noise...did not hear clicking. No audible sound for cranking. Checked DTC codes and saw nothing.

My first thought was battery. Except
A. I just stopped driving...seems unlikely.
B. Could be we have something wired wrong and pulling charge while stopped.

Next, because I know things didnt seal right on the exhaust...that is my next area of concern.

Will be back there in a few and will get a picture of the codes.

So did the car actually die while it was running? Or did you shut it off then it wouldn’t start after? The check engine light will come on with the ignition on and engine off anyway as it will do a bulb check. If it died while running you can pretty much rule out things like low voltage and starter. Unless the alternator isn’t charging for some reason, in which case it would run until it drained the battery down.

That IAT seems very very high though. One thing to remember is that while these cars are moving, the heat gets extracted great. But while it’s sitting there idling, especially with a blower and headers, it’s going to get very hot. I don’t like to leave my car running unless I plan on moving shortly after. (Not that this is the situation here, I don’t know if your car was running or not, but just for future reference.)

Keep us updated and good luck!

Yeah I'd be curious if any codes were thrown. It seems almost like a ground wire came off on the starter or something but Im sure it's not that simple. Maybe after sitting overnight it will fire right up.

172 IAT is no big deal for a car sitting...especially with headers and blower. I have seen my car show upwards of 150 onnthe scanner sitting and not running after driving it....afterall the coolant temps get up around 200 anyway, so if no air is flowing to cool it off the engine bay will heat up the IAT sensor.

CEL always comes on in accessory mode...no big deal there.

Check for burnt wires where the harness runs next to the header primary and around the starter. Also check electrical connections.

Make sure you are turning the car off, or if you want to be sure... disconnect the battery.

The car has a sleep mode that will give the same symptoms you are describing, if the ignition is left on too long.

Went by this morning, no luck. Will head back after golf.

It was running. Shut off to park. Wouldn't start after sitting 20 minutes.

My son drove my Camaro for one day cause I forgot why but something was going on with his car. It was 110 out and he works and manages Domino's Pizza chain (college job). Anyway the car was cranking slightly slow for about 1 month, only the driver would notice this as it was subtle. He was making store to store runs so lots of stopping and then hot starting. At the end of the day the car was broken in the parking lot with what you describle. NO SOUND from the starter, not even a click of a relay. The starter was just "frozen". I swapped starter, wrapped the starter and about 1 foot of the header (two close tubes). spray with silver silicone heat wrap protector.


So once again, "the car won't even try to start" aka won't crank, and in my case for sure there is no relay click or at least no audible one above all the other stuff that is going ok. It is just press the button and no crank... The starter wrap looks better.. sorry. and no don't want to get into a debate on why or why not headers should be fully wrapped.. I personally don't like any wrap, but in this case a partial wrap for heat is a must. Looks better with more coats of silicon heat wrap spray.... so DON'T beat me up

Ok. Thinking about this, it doesn't really make sense that the battery is the problem because if it was battery, I would expect to hear the car trying to start. Going back now. Will try disconnecting the battery and also checking fuses.

Part of the problem in troubleshooting is that we just made so many changes...more to come.

I'd start investigating the starter. With that much heat under the hood that thing could have went out on you. After driving on hot days they definitely get heat soaked and I hear mine struggle to start up again but thankfully I have not had it break on me. I have the stock exhaust manifolds, long tubes I would imagine only make it worse. I've seen quite a few modified 6th gens complaining of starter issues. I hope you get to the bottom of it soon!

We have the problem solved, kind of...


1. I got a new battery. I didn't think that was the fix, but as @OLDMAN described, I had noticed some slow starts over the past month (especially if I shut the car down and forgot to turn the AC off first).

2. After the new battery failed to start, we went into the fuse box and switched the starter fuse for the wiper fuse...BAM the car started.

3. As soon as I got home, I turned off and tried to restart...nothing.

4. Went and picked up 40a fuse (instead of 30a)...car has now stopped and started a half dozen times with no problems.



That brings me to a couple questions:
1. Did the changes we made legitimately cause the amp requirements to increase so the change makes sense?
2. What fuse is in the ZL1? Figure I am running the ZL1 fuel system, a bigger blower, BAP, etc. . .for the starter does the ZL1 have a 30 or 40a fuse.

The best news is that I got another tuning run in and had the updates to Ted. Back on track. . .now if I can figure out the exhaust. I think that I need to get a different mid-pipe, but I need to get on a lift to get pictures. I looked like a monkey f%*&ing a football this morning...set the camera on a board and turned on a video sliding it under the car to try and see what was there. Ridiculous.