Random blinking check engine light (solved)
 

I did a cam swap about a month ago, its been on base tune waiting for my dyno appointment at vengeance racing. I have driven it maybe a hand full of times babying it and testing the upgrades with no issues. Not doing wot or anything and keeping rpms low, like nothing over 4krpm. So car has been running great till last night. I drove for about an hr no issues. then random cel light would just flicker so quick i barely noticed it. it done this a few times in 15 minutes completely random. Now seems to do it more frequently but still random. sometimes after flickering cel light stays on for like a second or 2 then goes out. It idles fine when i start even to temp no cel light. can drive maybe a few minutes. then slowly flickers happen but like a split second, as i get to 2nd or 3rd gear happens more an more frequently, when i push in the clutch they stop completely. shift and give it some load then flickers like crazy consistently, so i immediately pull over turn her off, let car sit for a couple of minutes. start again. idles fine no check light whats so ever, it can sit all day idle no cel. So again warm to temp, no cel, drive 2 or 3 minutes then same thing again. after this happens smells like gas, so like its unburnt or something. Coils seem to be connected fine (they are stock though, with the amount of upgrades im thinking i need to upgrade), all my grounds attached. Only thing i can think of is the gas has been sitting in the tank with fuel line on the engine open for a few months. Maybe fuel is starting to go bad? thanks ahead of time

upgradres:
tsp cam vvt-3 headers and cam
borla exhaust
rotofab
springs/7.850 pushrods

Sounds like its misfiring. Could be spark plug wires got melted by the headers.

Did you move the wiring harness under the coolant reservoir away from the headers?

What code is it throwing? Check all your plug connectors around the TB

Ya, i ordered new ones as i was planning on replacing them anyways cause boot touches the headers on a few cylinders. Was going to do resistance check on the old ones when i get a second. work been crazy lately. Ran a compression test every cylinder seems to very healthy. hitting between almost identically at 180. Manual dosent say what good compression is, but old lt's were usually 180 ws very good. Have not tried leak down test... been kinda holding off while i do other test first cause i'll have to rent one from autozone or something. Plus with very good compression, almost feel like leak down test not necessary. Usually do leak down when you have bad compression. But will do as last resort if everything else checks. like maybe the valves are just barely not closing all the way or something. But i would think i would notice drivability issues. Which none to report. Honestly compression test was only thing i had time for and only did it cause was up late last night doing it... wouldn't be able to sleep till i know engine was still healthy. lol. Put this out here for sugesstions while i wait to get some time to test some things out. ty.

Absolutely no codes. but im just using a autozone reader. don't have a shop reader that gives more info. But my reader at very least will tell if consistent misfire is happening, which it does not. I'v been also wondering if this is just tune related, being it just has a base tune ( mike at vengeance in cumming ga, did the base and he's one of the best) and can be smoothed out once i can get to my dyno appointment at vengeance.

I say -get those plug wire boots off the headers and get that thing to Mike at V and you'll be Ok.

I figured out what the problem is. Base tune making car run extremely rich and gunked up the spark plugs with carbon preventing continuity to ground. Hince the gradual increase of cel light. Swapped spark plugs ( although I could of just wire brushed them) and she is back in fight. Going to just keep her in garage till dyno appointment cause how rich she running. Thanks for the suggestions and help.

You can't run with the base tune and a cam.....