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Full cradle bushing swap DIY
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Since I couldn't find a write up or anything on installing a full replacement bushing I figured id go ahead and make it. Something about paying twice the price to get the cradle insert that deliver half the performance just didn't sit right with me, so I took a chance with the bigger job of a full replacement and it turned out to be cake. Its easier then expected and id recommend saving your self the $170 difference and going with a more solid product.
First off these are the directions and they arent much help. I used motivation from the 5th gen video someone posted on youtube, this is the same process. Attachment 971583 First step is to remove your exhaust system from the rear subframe area, muffler too if your still stock. I have the speed engineering mid pipes and headers so the muffler was left in place. I was working on my friends alignment rack for this so from the floor jack perspective you will have to improvise a little. I then removed rear wheels and the front portion of the splash guard( bend it out the way). I then removed the lower shock bolt on the right side along with the brackets and front and rear main subframe bolts. (one side at a time) Attachment 971584 I then placed a small block of wood on the side i am not pressing such as the rear and wedged a socket wide enough to cover the metal portion of the front bushing. ( i think i used a 32-34mm) Attachment 971585 I then applied pressure to the subframe in a location that it wouldnt slip off, this was a simple hand twisting shoulder jack, i didnt use any special equipment for this. Attachment 971586 You want to load it up with as much upward force as you can to the socket and then apply heat evenly around the loaded bushing until it smokes and begins to slide out(I used MAP gas for about 2-4 min but propane should work just takes a little longer), keep adding and adjusting upward force to the subframe. The bushing will come only about half way out and then you can pry it the rest of the way. Attachment 971587 As seen in the pics there is no metal sleeve, these are just glued in bushings. Now switch the wood and socket and do the rear bushing, once cooled I cleaned the opening with a wire brush and solvent, wipe till dry and remove all residue. Attachment 971588 New bushings will then just pop in, lube the tubing and use C clamp to drive it in, install large washers and bolt it up but dont fully tighten yet. Attachment 971591 Now repeat process on the other side, dont burn the abs line running around the rear left bushing area. once all 4 bushings are complete fully tighten to supplied TQ specs. Use a TQ wrench its pretty high and you don't want to break one of these bolts over killing it or under tightening. I needed a 2nd person to help align the bolts due to the removed slack in the new sleeves and the supplied rear bolts are not tapered. Reinstall shock bolts, exhaust and splash guards. As seen in this picture you remove a lot of free movement in the bolt sleeve as well which is very good, under high load these open areas are known to move even properly torqued. Attachment 971590 Attachment 971589 I don't think I missed anything but let me know if I did or if anyone has any questions about it. This has to be my 2nd favorite mod next to the headers at this point. I have always done reasonably priced subframe inserts on previous car models with good results, but this is a huge difference and a way better value for performance then inserts in this cars case. Much less squat and no more dancing around turns in the rear if you're a circuit guy like me. It feels like you some hard springs were installed in the rear but over all it feels like it matches the front more now. |
Awesome, this is what the forum needs more of. DIYs w/ pics
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Mind if I ask why you decided to go the Poly route instead of the GM aluminum 'bushings'? I know Poly is about half the cost, just wondering.
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Poly will still give you the smallest bit of compliance, where you get zero from the ZL1LE bushings. When you have MRC, even the Touring setting is stiffer than the soft end of the gas shocks of non-MRC cars and the compliance factor of the factory arms and bushings all pitch in to smooth out very minor road imperfections that the MRC shocks won't react to.
OP, you're a brave dude for getting in there. I believe the factory cradle bushings are installed chilled to allow them to slide in and then stick to the cradle as they expand (yay, rubber). There might be a couple stripes of glue on the bushing before it goes in, but that is probably temporary adhesive while the bushing warms and seats itself. |
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noticed you didnt remove the calipers. looks like your stretching the hoses quite a bit. probably should remove them for anyone reading this. what about the ABS wires? dont want to pull on them either. What about the driveshaft? that has to be removed too.
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Ill be doing GM ZL1 1LE-spec 84341929 scord a set at shopchevyparts for $378.50 with newyear discount code. comes with all the torque to yield bolts including alignment bolts. https://www.shopchevyparts.com/perfo...-92298179.html
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got email 60 days the national backordered
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They are worth it though. |
it will put me just befor my vacation so no biggie. good time to install them.
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Why would u remove the drive shaft? You can remove the calipers if u want but they didnt provide much resistance to me or the abs lines because you only come down a bit and majority of your force is going upward.I had no issues, damage or warning lights after the job but people are welcome to add extra steps or add time to the job. This is just an outline for people who dont know what to expect. Sounds like your ready to make your own writeup since you have done the job already �� lol. |
Nice job and an aid to the forum, I use BMR cradle lockouts and 4pt. front brace w/Steeda bushings. BMR Rules!
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