Interchiller performance 60-130
 

So I know this is going to stir up some shit as usual, but for the people questioning if an interchiller is worth it I went back in my 60-130 times (and there’s a lot). I went through every one and picked ones that had the same temps and DA with and with/without my chiller. Out of 25+ runs, I used the ones that were the fastest given the DA, temp, humidity etc.

Now I have faster ones, and slower ones but those wouldn’t be fair to post as the air wasn’t the same. So here are 2 of my 60-130 runs as closest as possible to ambient weather. Also, no fuel or any other changes were made.

In the 5.52 run notice the 60-80 times. Then look at the 5.14 run 60-80 times. I spun quite bad 60-80 which hurt my 60-130. So it would if been even faster if you subtract that.

I run consistent 1.15 to 1.20 or so 60-80 when I don’t spin.

Now to discuss some other runs in 2000+ DA in 90F weather I have times in the 5.8s range. The hottest so far this year we had was an 86F day and I did a 5.27 thus far. The nice thing about this is, I can turn off the AC get the MAT Temps to where they were prior to the chiller and then do a pull. I’ll do this when I get 2 runs in same air.

With the chiller on an 80F plus day my MAT temps are just above ambient, and a hard pull MAT temps may drop by 10F on the hit and maybe end at 100. Then go right back down.

Just some food for thought for people that are questioning one. My power numbers also coincide with my times. I’ve dynoed in hotter weather with the chiller and didn’t lose power like before.

Lowest I’ve seen my MAT temps fully warmed and driving is 65F. (Cool weather) as temps increase it follows suit. But instead of 30-50F difference in ambient to MAT it stays within 0-10F of ambient. Even on my Maggie a 95F day I would be in the 135F+ range just cruising.

Yea I have a million of them that you text me. That and MATs, HAHAHA!!

The chiller does it's job really well. It gives you cool weather performance on hot muggy humid days. I'm a believer in them.

Had one on my Hellcat, they work extremely well except for road racing.

Thanks for posting, I am having an interchiller installed with the next round of upgrades. Looking forward to the cool temperatures.

Some shops are so dark on these.

It seems if it's good enough for a Demon (as specialized as it is), it's probably good enough for a similar purpose for us.

I know I typically see IAT2s around less than 20* higher than ambient while cruising. But MATs hover a good bit higher than that. However - once there is throttle and airflow, the MATs drop immediately. For my purposes - an Interchiller would probably be a good idea, if I didn't live in CA...

Thanks for posting the info!

Looks like a great mod if you don’t road course your car. Those are nice gains.

Great info, thanks for sharing. Got one going in over the next couple of weeks, really looking forward to it!

So, you're almost 4/10th of a second faster with the chiller. In the world of drag racing, isn't that like an eternity? Awesome! I would like to know what your routine is to capture these times. Are you cruising at 60 and hit it - or do you start your run at, say, 40 and hit it? I think I remember reading in an older thread that some advocated the former way and others the latter.

I am eager to test my new build! I got the Dragy and a drag pack - R2's and 17" Weld beadlocks and a bunch of BMR stuff for the rear. But, the drag pack/BMR stuff are awaiting installation. Actually, I can't even finish the tune because the 20" G2s and cold weather won't allow me any traction. Summer is close and I am excited to join you high horsepower fellas:thumbup:

I Start at about 55, sometimes I leave it in 3rd and hit it or leave it in drive. For whatever reason leaving it in drive and hitting it at 55 seems to always be the best. I think when I’m in manual mode and then move it over to drive it short shifts.

My best so far is 4.97. When I Get back to track I’ll see what it can do with my drag pack.

Maybe I’m missing something here… why wouldn’t this be good for road course/racing?

AC turns off at WOT and wont be able to keep up on a road course. If you have a large expansion tank it may offset this.

It won't be able to. FI Interchiller makes a bypass valve to allow you to retain your HX in the event that you want to road course the car, although leaving a HX in the loop means the chiller won't be quite as efficient. A large expansion tank has more benefit in a 1/2 mile or full mile event, or hot lapping the 1/4.

Yeah i thought about keeping mine, but i just dont track it. Its easy to make a bypass valve yourself though.

Is your fender tank in leu of a trunk tank? Am I understanding that correctly? I've been thinking about this, too, but I can't do anything obvious. I've seen some say those will hold heat as much as they can help cool in certain situations.