CAMARO6 - Bad Drive Belt Tensioner=Low Voltage, Bad Charging System, Dead Battery

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Bad Drive Belt Tensioner=Low Voltage, Bad Charging System, Dead Battery

So I hope this post helps alot if people track down charging problems the cheap way first..

To start off with if the piston on your belt tensioner looks oily and gunked up beneath the rubber boot...it needs to be replaced. Main symptom i had was after night time if i turned off my headlights my alternator voltage would drop to 11v-11.5v (on nGauge)and the car would start to stutter(erratic MAF)with rough idle.

I had taken tensioner off to replace the alternator (and belt) and it had ALOT of snap to it so I didnt see any reason to replace at the time.. but the problem remained so I went ahead and bought a new tensioner (like 80 bucks). After I had installed the new tensioner it came time to break the pulley over to route belt.... it took both hands and much, MUCH more effort..

Cars is a world apart now,.. all accessories and charging system working A1.

Moral of the story.. if your having problems with charging/battery dead and tensioner looks to have been dripping replace tensioner FIRST.....

Pics are of old tensioner on box of new tensioner with good current part#

thank you so much you share such a great tips i must follow this your thread is help all people which are facing this issue

Quote:

Originally Posted by rock45 (Post 10452403)

thank you so much you share such a great tips i must follow this your thread is help all people which are facing this issue

This tip was just too good not to pass on

Thanks, its posts like this that keep this community awesome.

Do you think it was mileage related or just a part failure?

I have the exact same symptoms? How big of a job is it to change the belt tensioner? I have air tools and cordless impact tools.

I was thinking that I could buy the Helm manuals for the cost of the repair at the dealership.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KirkH (Post 10560079)

It's super easy.. 2 bolts I believe. The alternator was the bbiiiitch... tensioner is pretty tough to break over though I felt like I was going to break it

Thank you. This is very helpful. I am replacing mine because it is leaking. I'm not having any other symptoms for now though.

Update: changed for 3rd time today.. they have updated the part no plunger on exterior now thicker piston and hard plastic... maybe this one will last more than 15k

Quote:

Originally Posted by SanDMaN2091 (Post 10922828)

Update: changed for 3rd time today.. they have updated the part no plunger on exterior now thicker piston and hard plastic... maybe this one will last more than 15k

Do you know if the bolts are reusable or just go ahead and buy new ones?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Puddin (Post 10926130)

Do you know if the bolts are reusable or just go ahead and buy new ones?

I've reused them everytime. You dont have to get too crazy tightening them they hold and you dont want to snap one off in the block

So when it starts getting cold outside I get alot of questions on replacing this tensioner. I figured a picture is definatly worth a thousand words.

DO NOT REMOVE BOLT IN CENTER OF BLACK PULLEY(It is stationary, and ONLY ment to be tightened)

The Manual says 16 ft/lbs(192 in/lbs) torque spec.. I just snug them down and give them a little bump.. the bolts are large, but lightweight and I dont trust them. It's not worth snapping one off in the block.

Hope this helps everyone out. Winter IS typically when electrical issues like to emerge.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SanDMaN2091 (Post 10926384)

I've reused them everytime. You dont have to get too crazy tightening them they hold and you dont want to snap one off in the block

Cool appreciate the help.