Fuel line, check valve question
 

I plan to replace the factory check valve with the one from Lingenfelter. If I cut the crimped, braided hose from the hardline, is is it possible to use a quick connect fitting on the hardline? Is there already a bulge on the hardline that accepts a quick connect female fitting?

Did you find an answer on this? I have the same question.

Yes, there is a bulge on the hardline, but it is not safe with just a new hose clamp, and to short for a quick connect. I ended up cutting the hardline and making a new quick connect flare with a flaring tool.

Or you could also just use a AN hardline adapter like this one. (No flare tool needed) https://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-AT165086ERL

Awesome! Thank you for the detailed response!

Could anyone share part numbers for this conversion? Did it work for you guys?

Thanks.

Yes it works.
I only have the part number from my link in my post above.
& I used some of those AN quick connect adapters
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...-quick-connect

Thank you very much!!!

Hey Swiss, is this the crimp tool you used? It sure looks the same.

https://www.amazon.com/MASTERCOOL-72...s%2C431&sr=8-1

Yes that is the one. I suggest to make some test crimps first on an old line, to get the feel for it. If I remember correctly you have to use the 3/8 quick connect die set, not the 3/8 GM, that is the old style.

So the line and fittings are 3/8"? I thought someone said somewhere it was 5/16". I think that's part of my confusion. What size is on the car? Being a possible failure point (pointed out in another thread), I'm giving this option a little more though. I could be completely wrong on this one.

Thanks for any more information.

I just read the thread you referenced, too. Is the check valve necessary? It sounded like the car actually ran (started) better without the check valve? I am having Ted's (JRE) 2650/cam package installed and am wondering if I should swap out the fuel line with the SS one?

One thing I don't see mentioned in this thread is where whp wise this check valve is actually a concern/restriction... I see 3400-3700 psi (with 70-74 psi feeding it) WOT on my fuel rail pressure during pulls so I haven't found it yet.

I know there are many of us in the 700-900 whp range w/o touching this. Seems easy enough to change but to what value?