No, it was kinda my fault. I used a weak impact gun to put the nut back on and it tightened down much sooner than with the OEM hats and because it tightened down where the shaft is hollow it flipping snapped.

Took the manual down until we figure this out, dont want this happening to others, Eric, I will call you soon

Ok

Ouch! Sorry to see that. ...and on a Friday.
When things go sideways when it is supposed to be simple it Sux.
I know it will figured out.

OK, I spoke to Justin and got it all sorted out. The nut does only go just past the top of the threads so DO NOT use an impact to put it back on. I did the second one and you can twist the perch enough (because of the spherical bearing) to get an open end wrench in there to tighten it down with a torx on the top. I think I'm going to use a drop of blue Loctite. I didn't take out the ride height spacer because I'm already lowered and am currently happy with the ride height.

Also per Justin the perch is going to be tighter and not spin as freely as the OEM perch so that's good to go.

I'll say that Justin has been awesome through this whole process and has been a class act. I'm very glad I got these and am having another strut shipped in so hopefully I'll have it back on the street some time next week. I have a race in 2 weeks to win :thumb:

Updated manual is on the website (CLICK HERE).

Eric is correct, do NOT use an impact wrench to tighten the strut nut, too much torque too fast, and the bolt will shear off! Instead, use a T40 torx and open wrench to tighten the strut nut to ~30 lbs.

We'll be prototyping a custom nut to replace the OEM strut nut that will engage the threads where the shaft is solid and not hollow to make the kit more robust. I'll send these out to those who have purchased the kit already for no additional cost, however they will probably increase the price of the kit a bit.

Thanks for the update, how far down the shaft does that hollowness go? I guess I will have to guesstimate 30lbs with a box wrench, ha.

HO LEE SHIT! That blows Eric. Sorry man. Sincerely. I'm doing the drop and didn't notice the threads disappear. I guess this is the difference??

The drop will not change the thread engagement at all, to drop the ride height, you just need to remove the 1/2" spacer that is included in the assembly, and make sure to use the included shorter bolts!

Also, to those who are installing, I'll be by my phone all weekend, so feel free to holler if you need any guidance. 951-595-5142

My install seems to be going smooth. I must be doing something wrong? JK. I just think it's a sucky thing that Eric ran into this problem. I'm glad it is getting squared away but I know the feeling. Best of luck brother. You can drive my rig while I'm away on vacation! Lincoln, ca is beautiful this time of year! I hope those replacement nuts are coming expedited!

Thanks man, and don't tempt me! ;)

Will the nuts be able to be replaced while the struts are on the car or will we need to disassemble everything? I hate to keep pounding the lower strut bolts out of the knuckles and then running them back in. I might just leave it up on stands if they are coming soon.

Sexy! Is everyone running no caster change? So plates are clocked all the way counterclockwise.

From concept to reality...... in our quest to make our product more robust and durable, we designed and machined a new two in one nut/spacer to take the place of the factory nut and our spacer.

With the new design you'll have the advantage of clamping the damper in the solid area of the shaft vs the hollow area. Providing great durability and strength.

Speaking of strenght, we had the raw material harden prior to machining. This process might be over kill but we believe in not cutting corners. There's several benefit. Here are a few:

• More durable product.
• Steel becomes tougher, stronger.
• Becomes more flexible.
• Increases its wear-resistance.
• Increase in overall lifetime of the part.

FYI, for all the guys who have purchase our camber kits, we will be sending a set for free of charge. We should be done with the machining by the end of the week.


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Awesome! That makes me feel better. Your company rocks. Do we have to take the struts out or will we be able to change the nuts while they are in the car still? I'm thinking I'll probably need to remove them to remove the top of the camber plate to be able to get enough leverage and angle to swap the nut. Thanks.