JANNETTY RACING FORCED INDUCTION Q&A

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by MS7

last run it was 557 rwhp i asked my tuner to make the tune extra safe because we have very nice weather 86f(_) & 91 octane with 8psi. so what i have to do to be around 600rwhp.
if i add 3.0 pulley it will be ok with my mode below?. i think the psi will be 11 or 12.

SLP jackshaft supercharger
ls9 cam
cai intake
LT headers
x pip with stock exhaust
3.4 pulley
JRE Super Tensioner
ID850
ZL-1 fuel pump
FPC ADM
ZR-1 3 bar Map sensor
TR7IX plugs
91 octane
AEM methanol without timing up

thank you

With the jackshaft model your better off moving back to a 3.8 up front then adding the overdrive cog on the back, Belt traction is much better and will give you more range.

You will have to inject more Meth than water probably 75-25 mix to have enough octane to run 11 psi and reach your goal since you are on 91 to start.

Ted.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by CyberPredator

I have the IPS kit on my car. I believe the fabberage kit is the same. Since IPS is no longer around do you happen to sell the GT3794s designed for the kit?

I don't believe the 3794 will work on this application as it is geared toward Diesel engines with Twin Scroll

What turbos are you currently running, and what is your power goal.

What other supporting mods do you have?

[Shake & Bake]

Hey Ted,

I have a built 416 stroker with 76mm turbo pushing 650rwhp/700rwtq which seemed to shift (6l80e) ok until I recently added 3.73 gears and a 3400 stall converter. My shop played around with shift points to no avail. I basically hit the rev limiter going from 2nd-3rd at WOT. So, I've been manually shifting with the paddles at the track.

My shop thinks the motor is overpowering the tranny, but how can I manually shift if this is the case? Recommendations?

Thanks,
Mark

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Shake & Bake

Hey Ted,

I have a built 416 stroker with 76mm turbo pushing 650rwhp/700rwtq which seemed to shift (6l80e) ok until I recently added 3.73 gears and a 3400 stall converter. My shop played around with shift points to no avail. I basically hit the rev limiter going from 2nd-3rd at WOT. So, I've been manually shifting with the paddles at the track.

My shop thinks the motor is overpowering the tranny, but how can I manually shift if this is the case? Recommendations?

Thanks,
Mark

At your power level you should be running a 3.45 gear.

Stock trans can easily handle 650 RWHP with proper tuning.

Converter efficiency plays a huge roll in how the trans will respond.

We have cars running well in to the 9s with our trans and our converters.

Ted.

[Shake & Bake]

Found that out a bit late some I'm stuck with 3.73 for now. Can the tranny be remotely tuned by you? If so, what data do I need to log? If not, any recommendations in the Chicago northwest suburbs?

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Shake & Bake

Found that out a bit late some I'm stuck with 3.73 for now. Can the tranny be remotely tuned by you? If so, what data do I need to log? If not, any recommendations in the Chicago northwest suburbs?

I would have to tune both the ECM and TCM in order to accomplish sucess.

The ECM and TCM must be tuned together to work properly and report torque properly.

Ted.

[CyberPredator]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

I don't believe the 3794 will work on this application as it is geared toward Diesel engines with Twin Scroll

What turbos are you currently running, and what is your power goal.

What other supporting mods do you have?

gt35/82r. I think I have supporting mods covered.(don't feel like making a list) Maybe 1300-1400. I thought when IPS was around they had a GT37/94r option. Maybe I was wrong. Thanks anyway.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by CyberPredator

gt35/82r. I think I have supporting mods covered.(don't feel like making a list) Maybe 1300-1400. I thought when IPS was around they had a GT37/94r option. Maybe I was wrong. Thanks anyway.

Those turbos can support up to 1200 Crank HP depending on Housing options, Headers design, down pipe size, intake size filter dimensions etc.

A set of 4088 would be your next option 1400 capable but also depending on above.

Or you can go to GTX 3582 they have more range.

How much power are you making now and how fast have you gone?

Ted.

[kyrebel]

Ted i have a 2011 SS procharged with 625 rwhp.it has the 6L80 with an FTI 3200 trple disc converter.i recently got a deal on a complete drop out ZL1 cradle with a 3:73 gear.will this be too much gear or do i need to get one with a 3:23 as them 2 ratios are all thats offered.Thanks Charlie

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by kyrebel

Ted i have a 2011 SS procharged with 625 rwhp.it has the 6L80 with an FTI 3200 trple disc converter.i recently got a deal on a complete drop out ZL1 cradle with a 3:73 gear.will this be too much gear or do i need to get one with a 3:23 as them 2 ratios are all thats offered.Thanks Charlie

Being a centrifugal with a cam I suspect.

The 3.73 will work very well, of coarse tuning the trans is required to hit your shift points.

Ted.

[1FAST SS]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

Sorry I missed your question, the darn notifications still aren't working on this site.

If 650 is your max end goal then the 1.9 will do a good job for you.

We all know that in this game our current goal will continue to rise, in that case the 2.9 will have a lot more head room for growth.

The whipple also has a much larger intercooler system and will run cooler under all conditions.

For your 650 RWHP goal, your cam profile will play a big role in reaching it or not.

You will also need.

Injectors, I suggest ID-850s again they will leave you more head room and do a perfect job.

Fuel pump, the ZL-1 pump FPCM combo is good to 650 RWHP and 700 RWHP with a Voltage booster added.

My personal preference would be the Whipple for the reasons above.

Ted.

Thanks Ted.

I am still on the fence about which way to go. I think the LSA setup would do the job, but I agree that goals constantly change.

[redirish]

Hi Ted,
I am researching the benefits of running a water/meth kit on my car. I have a 2010 LS3 with a V3 with the 3.33 pulley upgrade kit. I got the V3 and upgrade kit from you and Jerry from Ideal Garage installed and dyno logged it and you tuned it. I took the car to a track day and the heat n humidity is very high. The car ran slower im sure do to the higher IAT and I would think the water/meth kit would help to keep the IAT in check.
What is you thoughts on this and if I did go with a water/meth kit would I have to have to have the car retuned?

Thanks Brian

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by redirish

Hi Ted,
I am researching the benefits of running a water/meth kit on my car. I have a 2010 LS3 with a V3 with the 3.33 pulley upgrade kit. I got the V3 and upgrade kit from you and Jerry from Ideal Garage installed and dyno logged it and you tuned it. I took the car to a track day and the heat n humidity is very high. The car ran slower im sure do to the higher IAT and I would think the water/meth kit would help to keep the IAT in check.
What is you thoughts on this and if I did go with a water/meth kit would I have to have to have the car retuned?

Thanks Brian

Hello Brian, ET is in the chassis clutch, gears, suspension, wheels tires and driver.

MPH is in the Horsepower and driver.

Logging your car at the track is the best thing you can do then we can analyze the data and pinpoint where improvements can be made.

This combined with time slips is incredibly valuable.

It seems that most everyone thinks the solution is Throw more power at it, when in 99% of the cases they are not using the power they have to move the car down the track.

We are known for going fast on less power than most due to our way of applying that power.

Feel free to give me a call or email me your logs and time slips.

Ted.

[redirish]

Can I use the SCT 3 scanner to log when I go to the track?

I'm not looking for more power my thoughts on the water/meth was to keep the IAT down in hot weather to fully utilize what I already have.