What is MAX RWHP before needing to build the bottom end of the engine?

[Jontall]

Run it until it let's go and then rebuild using forged parts. You'll be surprised at the amount of abuse the LS engine can take with a good tune and lot's of fuel. Also consider methanol injection because it really helps a lot.

[Milk 1027]

426HP

[GQ4Life]

Originally Posted by VADER SS L99

who blew at 812?

no one just pulled a number out my a$$ LoL
there is one shop that built stock engine to 800 something wHP then the stock clutch gave out..

[dracer98]

Clearly there is no right answer. When you think about a stock motor making 700 at the crank - that is a ton. Sure you can make 650 or 700rwhp but that is like 750 to 825 at the crank and that is a ton and not a good idea

[srstewart03]

When in doubt go forged!!! You can do alot with stock bottom end but if I personally would never recommend hypereutectic pistons with some kinda boost. I believe you build it to do what you want it to do and stay together. Otherwise alot of time and money wasted. So build it right the first time

[scites]

Originally Posted by old motorhead

Yes....and it depends on the pilot a little too. If you're a ham fisted mullet who's always tearing sheet up, you need to be forged or maybe find another way of getting your jollies (you know who you are). If you aren't hell bent on destruction, and have a slight clue about machinery, I think 650rwhp is doable with a spot on tune. 650 will be a little tough on the rest of the drivetrain though .

You talkin sh#t about me...LMFAO

[Tampa Tuning]

I think some guys are being mislead believing they can just throw on a supercharger, make 650-700 RWHP on intern parts rated for 200 RWHP less and have nothing to worry about. Then their engine blows and the shop gets paid again for rebuild.

Yes its an expensive sport, but if you want a sub 10 second car, build it right so its more than a 10 second run and a tow back to the shop.

[realcanuk]

Originally Posted by Tampa Tuning

I think some guys are being mislead believing they can just throw on a supercharger, make 650-700 RWHP on intern parts rated for 200 RWHP less and have nothing to worry about. Then their engine blows and the shop gets paid again for rebuild.

Yes its an expensive sport, but if you want a sub 10 second car, build it right so its more than a 10 second run and a tow back to the shop.

I agree.

[SSBUSDRVR]

Lasted app 17 months at 650s no Meth on 93 and a hell of a lot of fun until now lol.
Someone just hit 900s on stock bottom. Takes the right tuner and fueling and imho a lot of luck with those pistons and rods.

Run it until it let's go and then rebuild using forged parts.

Unfortunately in some cases and in mine here the grenade took out the block too so an extra 2-4k in the bottom and/or less than 1k for Meth is going to end up costing 10-15k now. But it definitely will be stronger and better.

[2SS45th]

650 if you can honestly afford a rebuild if it lets loose. If this is one of those, stretch to supercharge it and hope nothing goes wrong, better stay around 550 to help it last. Also, AFR doesn't really lean out at high horsepower, you continue to fuel and air in the same ratio.

[1 BADD 1LE]

We turned 800rwhp on mine (Only thing left stock under the hood is the Crankshaft, Bearings, Connecting Rods, Pistons/Rings)...We have it tuned to 700rwhp for the street...keep in mind I don't drag my car, it is a Sunday driver and my show car...It sees about 200 miles/month...We fully intend on forging the motor with a higher displacement without blowing the current stock internals, BUT, if it so happens that while I'm out on the street playing and it goes BOOM, so be it - that is the risk I have accepted and know very well of...The customer needs to know and fully understand these risks when he/she gets their car built - that's why the raceshops have their Disclaimer Forms to protect them against lawsuits by individuals who don't do their homework before getting Go Fast parts added! Too many variables to add into the equation of what can go wrong - Pump Gas quality, ECM Tune, Driver's Heavy Foot, etc. There are many 500-650rwhp cars out there that have last many miles with a stock bottom end, but that doesn't mean your car will last 100 miles!

[realcanuk]

Its clear from another thread running now that 919 rwhp is no problem for a stock short block. I am sure it will be reliable for years to come.

[Matt @ FSP]

It is mechanical parts, anything can fail. Just try to do what you can to protect them, octane, good parts, conservative tuning. We have had numerous cars in the big HP territory stock bottom end, overall a good amount of them live but like anything I have seen motors pop at 550rwhp and at 750rwhp. What I can tell you is that my personal full weight Camaro went 9's stock bottom end, that bottom end is now in a 04 c5z that is still boosted to this day. There are also 20+ ECS cars alone just in the 9-second stock bottom end range, then add in the TT kits/A&A/Procharger kits also in that neck of the woods (Yes they are Corvettes that go faster due to the weight/suspension factor, but still stock bottoms). Look at Shawn C he is in the 9.1x range on a Stock LS1 bottom end, and Albert is in the same range on a Stock LS6 bottom end.

Learned how to put these things together and protect them from many years of experience.

[Bo White]

Well said Matt. Its like throwing 800 watts at a speaker that's rated for 400. Put a good amp and wires with a good install and play clean music and it will live if its not on 11 all the time. Add some distortion to it though.......pop.