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Old 11-18-2017, 06:03 PM   #1
RXtacy
 
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How To: Install Extended Wheel Studs

This is pretty straight forward, but figured I would throw this guide together to give people more confidence in what to expect.

Note: I have a SS 1LE so standard SS, RS, and LT may be slightly different. Proceed at your own risk, etc.

Required tools:
  1. Large hammer
  2. 1/2 or 3/8 drive ratchet (I used both)
  3. 13, 15, and 18mm sockets
  4. Lug nut socket (22mm for stock lug nuts)
  5. T30 torx bit
  6. 15mm box wrench
  7. punch
  8. large C-clamp or coat hanger
  9. Torque wrench (150 ftlb capable)
  10. Hydraulic press or open end lug nut and impact gun (not pictured)



I chose to use ARP 1/2" extended studs. ARP also makes 1" longer studs if you want to run some large spacers.

1/2" extended:
ARP part # 100-7736

1" extended:
ARP part # 100-7737



Step 1: Jack up front of car and place on jack stands
Step 2: Remove front wheels

Step 3: Remove brake pads

For the 1LE/ZL1 style brakes use the punch and hammer to knock out the two pins in the caliper holding the brake pads and spring clip in.





Next use the 13mm socket to remove the remaining bolt holding the pads in. Once the bolt is out slide the retaining pin out towards you.





With that removed you can now slide the pads out of the caliper.





Step 4: Remove caliper

With the pads removed you can now remove the calipers. Two bolts hold the calipers on.



Use the 18mm socket to remove the two caliper bolts. These are tight and have a thread locking compound on them so it will take some effort to remove. A breaker bar would come in handy here.



When removing the second caliper bolt, make sure to support the caliper so it does not fall when the bolt is removed.



Once the caliper is free, use the C-clamp (or coat hanger) to hang the caliper on the spring and out of the way.



Step 5: Remove the brake rotor

With the caliper out of the way you can remove the one assembly screw holding the rotor to the hub. Use the T30 bit to remove the assembly screw.



With the assembly screw removed the rotor is free to come off the hub.



With the rotor removed we finally have access to the hub and wheel studs.



Step 6: Hammer out the wheel studs

Rotate the hub so that the back of the studs have clearance to be hammered out.



Hammer the first stud out.





Rotate the hub so the next stud has clearance and repeat until all 5 have been removed.



Step 7: Remove the hub (or install studs depending on methods discussed below)

Note:
There are two methods to install the new studs. You can remove the hub and press the new studs in with a hydraulic press, or you can hammer them in with the hub still on the car and use the open end lug nut and an impact gun to seat the stud.

I feel that using a lug nut/impact to seat the studs often leads to marring the hub surface. The hub is only held on with three bolts so I chose to remove the hub and use a press.

Use the 15mm socket/wrench to remove the three bolts holding the hub on the spindle.



With the three bolts removed the hub pulls out of the spindle easily.

Step 8: Press in new wheel studs.





Stock vs. new studs



Congratulations! You have now installed extended wheel studs.
Reassemble in the reverse order of removal.

Step 9: Reinstall hub on spindle.

Slide the hub back into the spindle and secure with the three bolts. Use the torque wrench to torque the three hub bolts to 100 Nm (74 lbft)



Step 10: Reinstall the rotor

Slide the rotor back onto the hub and secure with the assembly screw.



Step 11: Reinstall caliper

Remove the caliper from the C-clamp and reattach it to the spindle with the two caliper bolts. Torque the caliper bolts to 150 Nm (111 lbft).

*Torque values differ for standard brakes.

Step 12: Install brake pads

With the caliper secured, slide the brake pads between the caliper and rotor. You may have to compress the caliper pistons to allow the brake pads to slide in.

With the brake pads in place reinstall the bolt in retention pin. Next install the upper pin followed by the spring clip and lower pin.

Step 13: repeat steps for other side.

Step 14: Reinstall wheels
Step 15: Lower car off jack stands
Step 16: Torque lug nuts to 140 lbft

Last edited by RXtacy; 11-18-2017 at 06:53 PM.
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Old 11-18-2017, 11:09 PM   #2
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nice write up
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Old 11-20-2017, 09:47 AM   #3
RXtacy
 
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nice write up
Thanks
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Old 11-21-2017, 10:04 AM   #4
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THAT is how you do a write up. Excellent contribution sir.
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Old 11-21-2017, 01:40 PM   #5
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thums up for the nice and detailed write up
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Old 11-22-2017, 09:58 AM   #6
RXtacy
 
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Originally Posted by slick3 View Post
THAT is how you do a write up. Excellent contribution sir.
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Originally Posted by glamcem View Post
thums up for the nice and detailed write up
Thanks, hopefully it helps someone down the road.
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Old 12-08-2017, 10:39 PM   #7
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Great DIY write-up > thanks for sharing. If you're going to us a hydraulic press to install the new studs, why not use the same hydraulic press to remove the old studs ? That way you're not hammering the crap out of the old stud and unnecessarily putting that hammering force on the wheel bearings.
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Old 12-12-2017, 08:08 PM   #8
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good quality how to. great job!
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Old 12-13-2017, 09:51 AM   #9
RXtacy
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tachitup View Post
Great DIY write-up > thanks for sharing. If you're going to us a hydraulic press to install the new studs, why not use the same hydraulic press to remove the old studs ? That way you're not hammering the crap out of the old stud and unnecessarily putting that hammering force on the wheel bearings.
You definitely could use the press to knock the studs out as well. I found them to knock out rather easily, so using the hammer was faster for me. The studs hardly even flattened at the end from the hammering so still perfectly usable.

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good quality how to. great job!
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Old 12-13-2017, 10:23 AM   #10
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Nice and detailed. Thank You Sir!
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Old 12-14-2017, 11:49 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RXtacy View Post
Thanks, hopefully it helps someone down the road.
Great post and timing my studs just came in today! Is there a specific torque spec for the rotor assembly screw?
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Old 12-15-2017, 09:54 AM   #12
RXtacy
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TEX1LE View Post
Great post and timing my studs just came in today! Is there a specific torque spec for the rotor assembly screw?
If there is I don't know it. All that screw does is hold the rotor to the hub during assembly so it's by no means critical. Once the wheel is installed with the lug nuts that's what really hold the rotor on. Those screws were pretty loose on my car.
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Old 12-15-2017, 02:30 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RXtacy View Post
If there is I don't know it. All that screw does is hold the rotor to the hub during assembly so it's by no means critical. Once the wheel is installed with the lug nuts that's what really hold the rotor on. Those screws were pretty loose on my car.
Sounds good thanks for the feedback.
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Old 12-16-2017, 12:29 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TEX1LE View Post
Great post and timing my studs just came in today! Is there a specific torque spec for the rotor assembly screw?
9Nm
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