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Old 03-12-2021, 06:03 PM   #1
lt4camaro


 
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LT2 Intake Manifold on Today

As the title says, I installed my LT2 intake manifold today. It really is a PITA to install initially, Should be a lot easier if I need to do it again though. 1st start up was good, a 7 mile aggressive drive was good also. Restart at home after checking stuff and tweaking harness connections , I got a cel. Drove it two separate times for a total of 25miles and still the cel is there. I need to borrow a scanner to see what code I have to determine problem. I also rechecked torque on all 10 intake bolts and it took quite a few turns to get them back to 75 in lbs, that bothers me. The car runs fine, but I do notice a slight loss in Idle RPM, may 50rpm, not even 100 rpm. Am using my stock air intake , that requires a little muscle to twist and stretch both ends and tightening the clamp to keep it where you want it. Various plastic vacuum lines need to be tweaked in different angles and positions and unclipping the pass side fat harness so it can be pulled foward a little to take pull off one of the clipped on wire harness connections. Positively cannot use the insulation piece that sits on top of the valley under the OE intake . Will be happy to answer anyone questions.
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Old 03-12-2021, 06:33 PM   #2
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Not being facitious, but why? I'm still learning.
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Old 03-12-2021, 06:36 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by BLACK21SS View Post
Not being facitious, but why? I'm still learning.
Because there is a proven gain of 20 hp between 5000 and 6500 RPM and no loss of HP or torque in the lower RPM ranges. Also the intake is less than $230.
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Old 03-12-2021, 06:43 PM   #4
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I do mine on Saturday and paid Pray Performance to optimize it all in a few weeks (backlog of work).
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Old 03-12-2021, 06:48 PM   #5
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You might want to torque them down to the correct torque values.
1. First pass 44 lbs
2. Second pass 89 lbs

Even if your saying 75 to In./Lbs. (Nm) that’s 102 lbs.
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Old 03-12-2021, 06:52 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lt4camaro View Post
Because there is a proven gain of 20 hp between 5000 and 6500 RPM and no loss of HP or torque in the lower RPM ranges. Also the intake is less than $230.
There you have it. Thanks for the info.
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Old 03-12-2021, 06:58 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackbeastSS2 View Post
You might want to torque them down to the correct torque valves.
1. First pass 44 lbs
2. Second pass 89 lbs

Even if your saying 75 to In./Lbs. (Nm) that’s 102 lbs.
The 75 in lbs spec comes from the aftermarket intake spec sheet along with the torque sequence. Just not liking the feel of torqueing the intake that tight. I did 25, 40, 75 , than 75 again after driving and intake was fully warmed. The aluminum on aluminum throttle body torque feel is much better and what I am used to feeling.
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Old 03-12-2021, 07:01 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timbo-1LE View Post
I do mine on Saturday and paid Pray Performance to optimize it all in a few weeks (backlog of work).
Let me know how it goes for ya. I consider myself a decent wrench and it was a little bit of a bitch to get thinks so so.
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Old 03-12-2021, 07:09 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lt4camaro View Post
As the title says, I installed my LT2 intake manifold today. It really is a PITA to install initially, Should be a lot easier if I need to do it again though. 1st start up was good, a 7 mile aggressive drive was good also. Restart at home after checking stuff and tweaking harness connections , I got a cel. Drove it two separate times for a total of 25miles and still the cel is there. I need to borrow a scanner to see what code I have to determine problem. I also rechecked torque on all 10 intake bolts and it took quite a few turns to get them back to 75 in lbs, that bothers me. The car runs fine, but I do notice a slight loss in Idle RPM, may 50rpm, not even 100 rpm. Am using my stock air intake , that requires a little muscle to twist and stretch both ends and tightening the clamp to keep it where you want it. Various plastic vacuum lines need to be tweaked in different angles and positions and unclipping the pass side fat harness so it can be pulled foward a little to take pull off one of the clipped on wire harness connections. Positively cannot use the insulation piece that sits on top of the valley under the OE intake . Will be happy to answer anyone questions.
Now you should get a Roto-Fab CAI for your LT1!
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Old 03-13-2021, 12:35 AM   #10
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Yeah I’m definitely interested in what is causing the cel. Got my intake ready to go on.
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Old 03-13-2021, 12:39 AM   #11
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low idle and codes? vacuum leak?
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Old 03-13-2021, 06:49 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LT4Greg View Post
Now you should get a Roto-Fab CAI for your LT1!
Thank you for the suggestion. I opened up my OE air box by smoothing out the upper and lower halfs from all the fins and opened the front of the air box so it draws cool air under and in addition to the OE inlet. The additional air inlet source is sealed like the OE inlet so it has no chance of drawing under hood heat air. I also removed the snow block rubber and trimmed the lower flange on the left headlight so now I can look thru the grille and see right into the air box. My air box is cold to touch as is the throttle body (Same as ambient air temp) on a cool day after a drive proving it draws outside ambient air only. Not so sure the Roto Fab totally isolates under hood hot air from being inhaled and so far no cost.
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Old 03-13-2021, 06:53 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s346k View Post
low idle and codes? vacuum leak?
Yeah, I am thinking along those lines also and the cel was not immediate or even during the first 7 mile drive. Cel after 1st restart when it was shut down for about 15-20 minutes.
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Old 03-13-2021, 09:57 AM   #14
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So much cheaper than msd— very tempting!
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