Clutch Tamer Hitmaster. Who has one in their car?

[Jayjellyfish212]

Getting ready to button up everything in the engine bay following finishing up the clutch tamer controller install. Just have to tap the wire line into the ECM for the signal wire that will eventually be the mph pulse wire to the stov controller. Had to order the female pin terminal pin so I could get it done. The delivery waiting game starts now since I just ordered 2 terminals. I also did some wire prep work on the solenoid by installing a lingenfelter solenoid diode recommended by lingenfelter. I had one laying around from my 2step install that I didn’t put on the 2step. I added the diode and wrapped the solenoid wires with fire sleeve.

The install on our cars to use the lingenfelter stov controller requires you to add a terminal and wire into the ECM C1 pin 57. The info is in the instructions that comes with the stov controller. As for actually learning how to pull the C1 connector apart to access and install the terminal in pin hole 57 I found a great YouTube video 2 part video that was perfect and kept me from breaking the connector and any of the fragile plastic tabs. I’ll post a video link on here for you all. Really was helpful. I got everything apart easy and now just waiting for the terminal to arrive.

[Jayjellyfish212]

Part 1

https://youtu.be/w0cv6LwCDjg

Part2

https://youtu.be/oTEfNvHJcI0

Link to ECM how to add or remove terminals in the connectors. Nice videos!

[Jayjellyfish212]

Clutch system all bleed and purged. Pedal is back to normal. No leaks so far. Hope it stays like that..lol. I tried the pedal with the main on and then with main off and works smooth.

I temporarily set up a spare battery and basic switch so I could test the tamer system out to see just the pedal return in action. With the main line valve off and just using the tamer system the pedal feels about the same either way. When I hit the temporary switch arming the solenoid and pushing pedal in it seemed almost the same pushing in the pedal but with just a slight more resistance ( due to the solenoid closed and only pushing through the needle valve) When i let the pedal come out it worked great and allowed the pedal to return slowly and smooth. I currently have the needle on the lowest setting but can tell it already can be opened up some more allowing the pedal to return faster etc. The unit and lay out works great. I am very confident this will allow the car to launch consistent and more precise compared to me using my foot that is not going to be the same each time. Works very smooth and steady return of pedal and is adjustable so it can dial in as weather and track conditions change.

I will post a YouTube link once i can shoot a video of the pedal testing so you guys can see the pedal return differences.

[stratman2SSRS]

I got stuck at a point where I installed a new Tick adjustable master cylinder at the same time and it did not work properly for me. I've sent it back to get them to check it out. The stock master cylinder works fine when I put it back in.

[Jayjellyfish212]

Originally Posted by stratman2SSRS

I got stuck at a point where I installed a new Tick adjustable master cylinder at the same time and it did not work properly for me. I've sent it back to get them to check it out. The stock master cylinder works fine when I put it back in.

Bummer they are having so many issues with those. Seems many people are having issues bleeding the Tick A.M.C. Looks like such a nice product. Kinda what deferred me from adding one on my car. I am still using the OEM one.

[Jayjellyfish212]

Here is a video I shot and put up on YouTube real quick so you can see the pedal in action. In the video I had the setting to where there still room for adjustment for slower or faster return on pedal.

https://youtu.be/mVvh-uR1sqQ

I will work on the electrical set up as soon as the female terminals arrive so I can finish up in the engine bay area. Just need to put the wire into the ECM C1 pin 57 so everything is wired to inside the cabin. From there I can start installing the MPH controller.

[NXTLEVL]

Excellent video finds Jay. I hadn't gotten that far yet but did read through the instructions and know it was going to have to happen. You mentioned installing the wire but how do you plan to "turn on" the VSS output of the pin? Lingenfelter mentions using Live EFI I believe but I think I'm going to invest in HP Tuners. I'm hoping that won't be a huge learning curve.

[Jayjellyfish212]

Originally Posted by NXTLEVL

Excellent video finds Jay. I hadn't gotten that far yet but did read through the instructions and know it was going to have to happen. You mentioned installing the wire but how do you plan to "turn on" the VSS output of the pin? Lingenfelter mentions using Live EFI I believe but I think I'm going to invest in HP Tuners. I'm hoping that won't be a huge learning curve.

I have HPTUNERS myself so hopefully that will do it. The instructions says EFI live but other software can probably be used. So I’m going to use HPTUNERS. I’m sure it’s the same and will activate the output pulse. I should know for sure probably next week if all goes well I’ll put the tuner on the car. My car battery is unhooked right now because I have the ECM C1 all open and ready to add the wire in pin 57 but the terminal to add it won’t be here till next week sometime. In the meantime I’ll probably work on figuring out the actual switch setup for it though. I plan to use a momentary switch to arm it and will use most likely 2 relays so it locks in an on position then the stov should trigger the relays causing full shutoff of the system. I also want to figure out on adding a small indicator light that I can put up in my pillar gauge column for the tamer and one for the 2step ctap... I think it will be a nice added feature having the 2 mini indicator lights so I can just look forward and never need to really look down or at anything else, plus I know when each is on and when they go off.

[stratman2SSRS]

I put my racing seat in today and the harness bar while I'm waiting for the Tick master cylinder to come back.

[dru21281]

Originally Posted by stratman2SSRS

I put my racing seat in today and the harness bar while I'm waiting for the Tick master cylinder to come back.

Looking good. Why did you have to send your Tick mc back?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[stratman2SSRS]

Originally Posted by dru21281

Looking good. Why did you have to send your Tick mc back?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

I sent it back because it was not working.
I either couldn't get the car to shift into gear, or the car would not start.
I put the stock one back in, and everything worked.
We will try it all over again.

[dru21281]

Originally Posted by stratman2SSRS

I sent it back because it was not working.
I either couldn't get the car to shift into gear, or the car would not start.
I put the stock one back in, and everything worked.
We will try it all over again.

Interesting, I also have the Tick adj master. Installed it prior to doing my clutch and it worked as expected.

After replacing my clutch and slave it was almost impossible to bleed the system. I had to use a vacuum bleeder on both ends to get any fluid moving through the system, and it came out very dark. Then another 2hrs of bleeding manually to get a decent pedal feel. I think there was an abnormal amount of grease put onto the slave fittings/oring connections causing blockage...

After that it took almost a month(about 2 qts) of bleeding every other day to get clear fluid coming out of the Tick bleeder line. Otherwise it would be black w/in a day or less(even w the fluid in reservoir still looking new). But the Tick master cyl has been great!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[NXTLEVL]

Was finally able to get some time to put stuff together. Although not as pretty as other installations on the thread , I think it will get the job done. I used the same number of fittings in the original configuration simply swapping the 3an equivalent hardline out for some 4an steel braided PTFE hose and fittings. The adjustment is right on top for easy access allows for some flex so I can access things easier. I went ahead and added new lines from the master cylinder and the transmission as well and wrapped them in some incredibly think fire covers from DEI. This stuff looks serious! Given my mass of pipes under the hood for the turbos I had to get a little creative with the hard line routing for the line lock so it’s a little close to the headers but I went ahead and wrapped all of the lines as well. Hopefully that, along with the incredibly high temp fluid I used, should keep my brakes from fading. I experienced that last year during a very hot, slow cruise (Woodward Dream Cruise if you’re familiar with it) and it was a little scary.







Of course I’ll need to control everything as well so I decided to put the boxes in the glove box to keep them away from the heat of the engine bay and make tuning them a completely in-car job. You’ll see I’ve got the 2000-2SR for my 2-step and them a CTAP and STOV to control turning them on and off at appropriate times. That took quite a bit of planning to ensure it would function as planned given the clutch release valve needs to stay on after the 2-step turns off so I couldn’t simply activate it off of the CTAP. Let me know if you guys have any questions about the wiring. I’m sure there are other ways to do it, and this may not even be correct or the best way but as far as I can tell it’s going to function how I envisioned it.

I’ve yet to get into the ECM to activate the VSS signal for the STOV but it seems pretty simple. Once that’s done it’s going to be a lot of trial and error on the street and the track to get it to work efficiently. Hopefully I’ll have some company in that endeavor come spring time.

[Jayjellyfish212]

Originally Posted by NXTLEVL

Was finally able to get some time to put stuff together. Although not as pretty as other installations on the thread , I think it will get the job done. I used the same number of fittings in the original configuration simply swapping the 3an equivalent hardline out for some 4an steel braided PTFE hose and fittings. The adjustment is right on top for easy access allows for some flex so I can access things easier. I went ahead and added new lines from the master cylinder and the transmission as well and wrapped them in some incredibly think fire covers from DEI. This stuff looks serious! Given my mass of pipes under the hood for the turbos I had to get a little creative with the hard line routing for the line lock so it’s a little close to the headers but I went ahead and wrapped all of the lines as well. Hopefully that, along with the incredibly high temp fluid I used, should keep my brakes from fading. I experienced that last year during a very hot, slow cruise (Woodward Dream Cruise if you’re familiar with it) and it was a little scary.

Attachment 1023166

Attachment 1023167



Of course I’ll need to control everything as well so I decided to put the boxes in the glove box to keep them away from the heat of the engine bay and make tuning them a completely in-car job. You’ll see I’ve got the 2000-2SR for my 2-step and them a CTAP and STOV to control turning them on and off at appropriate times. That took quite a bit of planning to ensure it would function as planned given the clutch release valve needs to stay on after the 2-step turns off so I couldn’t simply activate it off of the CTAP. Let me know if you guys have any questions about the wiring. I’m sure there are other ways to do it, and this may not even be correct or the best way but as far as I can tell it’s going to function how I envisioned it.

I’ve yet to get into the ECM to activate the VSS signal for the STOV but it seems pretty simple. Once that’s done it’s going to be a lot of trial and error on the street and the track to get it to work efficiently. Hopefully I’ll have some company in that endeavor come spring time.

Attachment 1023168

Nice job brother
You got me reconsidering placing my stov and ctap now in my glove box to. I like the convenience of access to the controllers there. I had my ctap in that driverside panel where the interior electrical fuse panel is. I haven’t had a chance to put the stov controller in yet but I did get the wire installed in the ECM and feed into the cabin of the car. Work stuff got busy past week and a half so I haven’t had much energy after hours to get the stov box wired in. Hopefully next week sometime I can get it finished up and set the signaling with the HPTuners. In a sense it was almost great I didn’t get it finalized since seeing yours wired in the glove box I think that’s a perfect idea and better location for the controllers.