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Old 07-19-2012, 11:49 PM   #15
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I would try a little DC-DC step up conveter. regulate that at say 14v.
Actually that was going through my head as well since I just finished putting together a 12v - 5v regulator. 12v-14v converters are small, cheap and easy to install. And just run it on a "switched" circuit.
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Old 07-20-2012, 05:58 AM   #16
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I would try a little DC-DC step up conveter. regulate that at say 14v.
Thanks for the idea. I'll give that a shot.
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Old 07-20-2012, 07:02 AM   #17
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I just looked at the instructions again and I'm not sure if these ideas will work totally. The "higher" voltage turns the system on and the "lower" voltage puts it in calibration/adjustment mode. After 10 min. at "lower" voltage it automatically turns off. I don't know if it will retain calibration if it looses voltage. It's supposed to be hooked to an always "hot" circuit.
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Old 07-20-2012, 09:06 AM   #18
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Yeah I just re-read the instructions and saw that as well. Here's what you can do. Install the DC-DC converter (12v-14v) on a "switched" circuit and wire the Curb Alert control box to it as normal. Then also run a hot wire from any 12v(+) circuit to the control box as well. That way when you turn the ignition key "on" the converter will power up and supply the 14-15v to keep the Curb Alert awake and operating but when you turn the key off it will only see the normal 12v coming off the battery and will allow it to shut down and/or enter calibration mode.
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Old 07-20-2012, 07:46 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by RoketRdr View Post
Yeah I just re-read the instructions and saw that as well. Here's what you can do. Install the DC-DC converter (12v-14v) on a "switched" circuit and wire the Curb Alert control box to it as normal. Then also run a hot wire from any 12v(+) circuit to the control box as well. That way when you turn the ignition key "on" the converter will power up and supply the 14-15v to keep the Curb Alert awake and operating but when you turn the key off it will only see the normal 12v coming off the battery and will allow it to shut down and/or enter calibration mode.
Sounds great. I'll give it a shot one of these days. In the mean time I'll try and keep my distance from the curbs.
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Old 07-20-2012, 08:56 PM   #20
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Talking

OK. Height of a ZL1 front splitter versus a ZR1 splitter is roughly the same. Low. Very low. When traversing roads, inclines, or any upward or downward plane or surface you may drive upon or encounter it is wise to make a visual check of the angle you will approach prior to doing so. Avoid overtly high or low angles if one can otherwise you will smack your nose <I'd like to say to spite ones face, because it's freakin' common sense...>Then one will not have an "ooopsie" and cause damage.
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Old 07-20-2012, 10:57 PM   #21
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Actually a ZR1 is considerably lower but thanks for the info.
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Old 07-20-2012, 11:01 PM   #22
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.
Right back at ya bro......hold your breath.....
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Old 07-20-2012, 11:09 PM   #23
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Right back at ya bro......hold your breath.....
(insert sticking out tongue smiley here)
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Old 07-20-2012, 11:17 PM   #24
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(insert sticking out tongue smiley here)
wow....great comeback, thanks for sharing....
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Old 07-21-2012, 09:07 AM   #25
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Old 07-21-2012, 03:22 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by RoketRdr View Post
Yeah I just re-read the instructions and saw that as well. Here's what you can do. Install the DC-DC converter (12v-14v) on a "switched" circuit and wire the Curb Alert control box to it as normal. Then also run a hot wire from any 12v(+) circuit to the control box as well. That way when you turn the ignition key "on" the converter will power up and supply the 14-15v to keep the Curb Alert awake and operating but when you turn the key off it will only see the normal 12v coming off the battery and will allow it to shut down and/or enter calibration mode.
Will this work or will the 12v(+) circuit backfeed the switched circuit when the car is off? If backfeed is an issue will a diode in the "switched" wire solve the problem? If so what size?
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Old 07-21-2012, 04:40 PM   #27
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I smacked mine the other day. Ordered new one, reusing bolts
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Old 07-21-2012, 06:04 PM   #28
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Will this work or will the 12v(+) circuit backfeed the switched circuit when the car is off? If backfeed is an issue will a diode in the "switched" wire solve the problem? If so what size?
You could always throw in your own diode just for peace of mind but I doubt you will need it since most DC-DC converters almost always have circuit protection built into them to protect against relay voltage spikes. You can pick up an IN4004 diode from Radio Shack for about $3 that will be plenty strong enough to handle any voltage spike this little thing could throw at it as I'm sure it only draws 100-200ma if even that much. Just make sure you point the cathode end toward the Curb Alert module and not the other way around. Also keep in mind that you will see a .6-.7v drop across the diode. I would use either a Current Logic or Vellman DC-DC converter because they are small, inexpensive and easy to install. If you blow one up its only $10. And you have the option of getting them with output voltage adjustment as well so you can set the regulation at exactly 14v if you wanted to. I'm going to use a Current Logic 12-15v unit myself.
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