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Old 08-02-2017, 12:00 PM   #15
Alpha1BC

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomiboy View Post
Sounds like something as simple as a paper gasket would stop the galvanic corrosion
For light driving, yeah I had the same though. That or a thin sheet of plastic or something. But, I'd think it'd become problematic when you get high temps during hard braking. I was also thinking of some 0.005" shim stock of some metal that would be less reactive with the steel and aluminum if such a metal exists. Or, some kind of coating on a metal sheet to keep the corrosion from happening and is durable enough not to get damaged when used. I could be completely wrong, but if I ever get the noise on mine I'll experiment with it
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Old 08-02-2017, 12:09 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpha1BC View Post
For light driving, yeah I had the same though. That or a thin sheet of plastic or something. But, I'd think it'd become problematic when you get high temps during hard braking. I was also thinking of some 0.005" shim stock of some metal that would be less reactive with the steel and aluminum if such a metal exists. Or, some kind of coating on a metal sheet to keep the corrosion from happening and is durable enough not to get damaged when used. I could be completely wrong, but if I ever get the noise on mine I'll experiment with it
It exists, it called Tef-gel...used it a ton on boats:

http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=tefgel_infor
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Old 08-02-2017, 09:30 PM   #17
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sounds like teflon pipe dope used by plumbers!

https://www.staples.com/RECTORSEAL-T...xoCuuEQAvD_BwE
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Old 08-03-2017, 02:06 AM   #18
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I didn't have this noise until I installed spacers on the rear wheels. Bah

Last edited by WhyUMad1LE; 08-03-2017 at 02:19 AM.
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Old 08-03-2017, 02:42 PM   #19
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Check your owners manual, On my Gen 5, the owners manual specifically states to clean the mating surfaces and add a light coating of grease to the wheel hub area, not the flat mating surface but the raised "register" that centers the wheel. I use CRC brake lubricant.cWhile I have lubed the mating surfaces of my other vehicles (that see all weather duty) I do not on my Camaro. Lug studs are not to be lubricated.
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Old 08-04-2017, 11:55 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by cdb95z28 View Post
Check your owners manual, On my Gen 5, the owners manual specifically states to clean the mating surfaces and add a light coating of grease to the wheel hub area, not the flat mating surface but the raised "register" that centers the wheel. I use CRC brake lubricant.cWhile I have lubed the mating surfaces of my other vehicles (that see all weather duty) I do not on my Camaro. Lug studs are not to be lubricated.
I completely agree with that statement. Wheel lugs are not to be lubricated. And there is a definite reason for that.
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Old 08-04-2017, 11:57 AM   #21
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I have kept my lugs properly torqued and never had the issue again after I heard about it. I now have 16k miles on my car. Just FYI.
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Old 08-19-2017, 05:06 PM   #22
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I just noticed this same ticking on my front driver side wheel, when making right hand turns starts to click, first time I pulled over to see what was up thought something was loose.

OP has your fix held up?
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Old 08-20-2017, 06:17 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Alpha1BC View Post

I couldn't say why this doesn't happen on all cars, though. Maybe has something to do with the wheel/rotor coating process variations?
That's Part of it, but is truly based in the types of dissimilar metals, (ie grade of aluminum and grade/type of Steel) and the working environment.

I doubt most performance guys are driving their Gen6 in the Sleet and Mud for extended periods without servicing them. Plus, The higher the salt/moisture content the added galvanic corrosion.

But you have a good grasp of things than most ppl.
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Old 08-20-2017, 06:26 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Alpha1BC View Post
For light driving, yeah I had the same though. That or a thin sheet of plastic or something. But, I'd think it'd become problematic when you get high temps during hard braking. I was also thinking of some 0.005" shim stock of some metal that would be less reactive with the steel and aluminum if such a metal exists. Or, some kind of coating on a metal sheet to keep the corrosion from happening and is durable enough not to get damaged when used. I could be completely wrong, but if I ever get the noise on mine I'll experiment with it
You need to insulate the electric charge between the two dissimilar metals. A metal shim might act as a sacrificial anode but you'll still have the galvanic corrosion(i.e. voltage).

There are Industrial Coasting used in Turbines and other Industries that address galvanic corrosion.

Painting or coating the rotors' hubs is the easier and most efficient way to insulate them from galvanic corrosion.
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Old 08-21-2017, 07:37 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by RedDragonSS2.0 View Post
I just noticed this same ticking on my front driver side wheel, when making right hand turns starts to click, first time I pulled over to see what was up thought something was loose.

OP has your fix held up?
Yes still going strong! Had another AutoX this weekend and still no hint of clicking.
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Old 08-21-2017, 01:21 PM   #26
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Had been waiting for mjk3888's update before performing myself. Now just need to "get 'er done!"...
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Old 08-23-2017, 08:51 PM   #27
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FYI the rotor hub is Aluminum and the wheels are aluminum no dissimilar metals there.

Here is the mating surface of the front wheels, mine had grease on the inside chamfer from the factory I reapplied grease there as well. Make sure to recheck torque of your lug nuts after some miles.

Also notice the asymmetric pocketing which is interesting...

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Old 10-26-2017, 09:49 AM   #28
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This is really helpful; going to give this a shot this weekend.
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