Issues after battery died on 2013 LS3

[jethrobandit]

I've got a big issue on my 2013 all of a sudden and I'm not sure where to start. I finally got headers and a BTR stage 3 installed with a good/decent tune applied about 8 weeks ago. I've not been super happy with it due to some minor issues, but it has been running strong since I've had it. However, the tuner decided to go out of business the week after my installation due to high volume...

So, I haven't been able to get an answer from the guy on the issue I'm having and hoping someone may point me in the right direction. Not a lot of speed shops in my area either.

The issue is I left her sitting for 2 days without driving and come out and the battery is dead. Have a Forza 3-way controller and had heard that can drain the battery, but never that quick. Put it on a charger for several hours until I can crank it. Once cranked, I get the service stabilitrack notice on the DIC and not exactly a smooth idle. Also all the nanny icons are lit up showing they are off. I go to drive around the block to get some juice in the battery and there is a hesitation/bump-bump-bump when I accelerate. And nonstop decel pop any time I let off the gas (no cats, but this is abnormally bad). That's when I look down and the tach isn't moving either—just stuck at the bottom like the engine isn't running.

Bring her home immediately, shut it down, and try to start again and it really struggles to start. Shut it down and put the charger back on it and that's where I've left it until I get some answers.

Could be battery is bad.. still original battery. But that doesn't explain all the other issues once I got it started. Oil pressure, trans, temp, battery gauges were all showing normal-ish once started and moving. Couldn't possibly have lost or reset the tune to base when the battery died, right?

Don't know what to do or where to take now...

[Russell James]

If you're going to work on it yourself, will need a scan tool and service manual. Anyone not using those two things and the diagnostic charts for whatever DTC codes it has is guessing.

Without a scan tool and manual, you could start with a global power reset, D&C battery for 10 minutes. Check all related fuses. Fault still there, scan tool and manual time.

[Olddudesrule]

RJ is right. Get an OBDII code reader, a manual, and I would add a voltmeter. Low voltage issues in modern cars can cause a number of seemingly unrelated issues. Coupled with the fact you have a non-OEM tune, and who knows at this point. Start with the simple stuff like what is your resting battery voltage. If it's below 12.2-12.3 (yes, even that low), have it tested under load and get rid of it if it's failing. Once you know you have a functional battery, check connections, specifically grounds and plug wires. Troubleshooting, even for a novice like me, is all about having a checklist of sorts and starting with the simple solutions first. Then I would have the tune checked by a professional. Don't chase parts......

[jethrobandit]

No codes currently and none stored. Actually started up normally just now and service stabilitrack was gone from DIC and tach was working normally. I'll take it to Autozone or somewhere in a bit and have the battery tested.

I don't necessarily want to do the work myself on that part of it. Electrical isn't my thing. I just wanted to figure out if this was a battery issue, tune issue due to battery, or worse an engine issue - was scared I could harm it by driving it.

[Hippy]

Without a doubt if u leave your 3-Way controller on C open flaps it drains your battery fast.. When parking leave it on A managed by ecm you'll have better luck..
Best bet would be to hook the power source up to a circuit controlled by the key.
If you tried to crank it with a week battery.. Nothing but problems.. Low voltage will overheat your starter etc
Voltage needs to be 14v when running, after fully charging your battery check altenater for proper voltage output
Low voltage isn't good.. Coils will miss fire etc injectors don't fire correctly.. Everythihg is off
Good luck

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[jethrobandit]

Ah, thanks, I usually don't leave it on open (neighborhood) but I did when last driven. I planned to eventually wire it to a crank circuit, but was happy just to get the original install done. Also need to be better about turning the unit off if I know I'm going to leave it for a couple days. Just didn't think I'd have to worry about it for 2 days.

[frankwjr]

If/when you replace the battery make sure it is an AGM version...good luck!

[jethrobandit]

AGM version? Was planning to use a AAA battery until they said they don't service the area I'm in any longer.... seriously. So, I'm researching and shopping for one right now.

No speed shops, no good garages, no AAA service... you'd think I was in the middle of the desert not the fastest growing suburb of Nashville.

[jethrobandit]

Sorry, I just did research on AGM, should have done that before asking. Thanks for the help.

[hou30guy]

U got 4 yrs out of that battery if ur car is a 2013, get a new battery problem solve watch. Most batterys are 3 to 4 yrs if u get more count urself lucky especially on a strock battery

[hammdo]

Add a trickle charger to keep the battery charged:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=915

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=916

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=920

-Don

[lbls1]

Realize also that once you drain the newer type batteries, their power holding ability becomes compromised. If the battery went dead two or more times since you've had it, I'd tell you to get another battery. The other issues such as your analog gauges, computer, etc., will normally go haywire when your battery dies. Everything should go back into place once you resolve your dead battery issue.

Aftermarket items have been notorious for draining batteries (a lot of experience with my 4th gen). If you are going to leave the car parked awhile with the accessories, then either un-cable the battery or put a tender on it.

Good luck.

[waybadsrad]

Dont worry the same thing happened to me. When the voltage is low the car does strange things stablitrack, no tach and low power. Drive the car for a little bit till the battery gets charged then let the car sit for a little bit then start it again and you should be fine. If your batterty is still dead it might be time for a new one

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by jethrobandit

I've got a big issue on my 2013 all of a sudden and I'm not sure where to start. I finally got headers and a BTR stage 3 installed with a good/decent tune applied about 8 weeks ago. I've not been super happy with it due to some minor issues, but it has been running strong since I've had it. However, the tuner decided to go out of business the week after my installation due to high volume...

So, I haven't been able to get an answer from the guy on the issue I'm having and hoping someone may point me in the right direction. Not a lot of speed shops in my area either.

The issue is I left her sitting for 2 days without driving and come out and the battery is dead. Have a Forza 3-way controller and had heard that can drain the battery, but never that quick. Put it on a charger for several hours until I can crank it. Once cranked, I get the service stabilitrack notice on the DIC and not exactly a smooth idle. Also all the nanny icons are lit up showing they are off. I go to drive around the block to get some juice in the battery and there is a hesitation/bump-bump-bump when I accelerate. And nonstop decel pop any time I let off the gas (no cats, but this is abnormally bad). That's when I look down and the tach isn't moving either—just stuck at the bottom like the engine isn't running.

Bring her home immediately, shut it down, and try to start again and it really struggles to start. Shut it down and put the charger back on it and that's where I've left it until I get some answers.

Could be battery is bad.. still original battery. But that doesn't explain all the other issues once I got it started. Oil pressure, trans, temp, battery gauges were all showing normal-ish once started and moving. Couldn't possibly have lost or reset the tune to base when the battery died, right?

Don't know what to do or where to take now...

Likely need a new battery, but I suspect you also have another problem with Misfire or Skip, which caused the Stabiltrak to flash.

Check your plugs and wires carefully.

If you need Help with Tuning I can set you up with a tuner and I can remote tune it for you via email and an SCT X4 device.

Ted.