Ram Clutch Pedal Adjuster

[forklord]

Sounds like you have the opposite issue i have. Youre too far away and my pressure plate and csc are way too close so shimming for me would be worse.

[gofastscottb]

Here are the instructions. This might help.

http://www.ramclutches.com/instructionshydraulics6.html

[gofastscottb]

Here is a install video.

[forklord]

just got the car back. the ram clutch adjustor worked!! way better. clutch pedal is still stiffer than stock but eases in way better. no more chatter or bucking. love it!

did a flush with wilwood fluid, ram adjustor, monster clutch billet release bearing support.

check out the thread of my specific issues if you wish http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=407190

[gofastscottb]

It is hard to convince people that this makes a big difference. Once you drive the car with it you wonder why it would not come from the factory with one of these. Chevrolet of course is going to design the car so it is easiest on the drive train for warranty purposes. So for years they designed the car so you had to shift it slowly to get it in gear. They don't really care if it annoys you when you drive it. So the after market has an opportunity to make performance enhancing parts. Oh well GODD JOB RAM.

[forklord]

Actually after some more testing its never fixed my issue completely. But it certainly helped. Something else is going on with my car. Thanks for the info though!

[camguynj]

Some guy posted in another thread that "All it does is create dead pedal until engagement. It feels like the clutch pedal is broken" For those that have it installed is that the case? Is that the "free play" the product material mentions?

[hesster]

I love mine and it works perfectly. Yes - you have to bleed it real good, and I recommend getting the GTO remote MC. OEM plumbing into the MC is just dumb and contaminates the brake fluid.

[forklord]

Originally Posted by hesster

I love mine and it works perfectly. Yes - you have to bleed it real good, and I recommend getting the GTO remote MC. OEM plumbing into the MC is just dumb and contaminates the brake fluid.

mine is still a little tiny bit dirty from little use even tho i have the gto piece. the shop says it will happen with the way the slave is made and the type of clutch. i honestly dont know if that makes sense nor do i think its possible from what knowledge i do have on the subject. they also say they didnt see anything wrong that would make my clutch this touchy feely as opposed to stock feel. they figure its the lightweight flyweel and application the clutch is really better suited for which is a moderate amount of race time. although i did take a 14 1le for a test drive (why not!) and the clutch was a better overall feel and dead easy to drive. it did suffer some pretty major chattering and not quite grabbing like i figured it should, albeit not often enough to bother you much. brand new car tho. it should be noted that it was my first time with a stock clutch in a LONG time and first time driving a completely stock car ever in a 5th gen.

seems like nobody has drivability issues with other brands at all really. so my speed shop would seem to be correct on their assessment. i did all the supporting mods to be done at the time as well like tick lines and idealg master cylinder, gto res, etc. seems like i rubbed in some snakeoil somewhere along the path?

for the poster saying it just makes the clutch engage/disengage sooner/later....well thats half the problem i have before the kit. it does help it engage at the right spot, slightly smoother..... lessens chatter and low rpm bucking ever so slightly. so...were both right i guess? lol. they have a video that explains the operation and it makes sense to me. not boasted and hyped like a lot of other junk around. its not a completely new advanced technology thats 100% better for every application that every car manufacturer is gonna make a performance option. its there for who needs it.

it was worth the small amount of money and time. you shouldnt need it on a stock car as much but every stock clutch/tranny seems to be a little different with these cars from what i hear.

[CamaroCracka]

Originally Posted by camguynj

re "It also keeps the bearing from being in contact with the pressure plate until the clutch pedal is applied" Isn't that the position the throw out bearing is supposed to be in until the clutch pedal is depressed ?

Actually, with our cars (and I believe with the T56 too) the bearing rides on the PP with minimal pressure behind it even when the clutch is depressed. When you measure for clearance, there should only be about an 1/8th inch between the PP and the compressed slave cylinder.

[camguynj]

Finally got around to installing mine ...why did I wait so long From day1 I hated how high the clutch released. I felt like my knee was touching my ear before it released, and I'm 6'3" Pedal feel is great. NO dead/soft pedal free play as someone mentioned which is the result of a poor bleed. I had mine power bled. Sooo much more enjoyable to drive. It releases nice and smooth & low with no bucking ...as Goldylocks would say "just right" like the feel in my '66 GTO

Here's a pic of it installed. The adjuster is zipped tied to one of the brake master lines . I got an Earls 16" braided SS line to connect it to the master, the 13" line that comes with the adjuster just wasn't long enough.

[Powhusku]

Got mine put in and it is for sure a big improvement. Now to tinker and get it dialed in so it's as close to stock as possible.

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by Powhusku

Got mine put in and it is for sure a big improvement. Now to tinker and get it dialed in so it's as close to stock as possible.

How bout a pic

[Powhusku]

Originally Posted by camguynj

How bout a pic

I'll get one tomorrow.