[vtirocz]

Originally Posted by waterman

subscribed for torque specs.

What specific torque specs do you need? See post 56 for the trans crossbrace ones. If you need others, just post up what you’re looking for.

[oneredry]

Originally Posted by vtirocz

What specific torque specs do you need? See post 56 for the trans crossbrace ones. If you need others, just post up what you’re looking for.

were you the one who referenced the dimple plug for our TR6060 transmissions? on http://www.drainplugmagnets.com/gmchevybuick.php

Is the thread pitch the same for the oil and transmission? I'm not sure exactly what you did, sorry.

[waterman]

Originally Posted by vtirocz

What specific torque specs do you need? See post 56 for the trans crossbrace ones. If you need others, just post up what you’re looking for.

For specs that were posted by cwebster on post 56. So that I can easily access this tread and find it.

Thanks for your concern.

[oneredry]

well I did perform the trans fluid exchange using the RP syncromax fluid as the OP posted. the process is a BITC* in my opinion. Then again I didn't have a rack to work with either. car was jack up about 4" inches with one rear tire slightly elevated as I could barley squeeze under the car. I ended up having a floor jack hold the trans in place while I removed the cross member. (a lot easier IMO to do it that way) used the large fluid sucker and it was a PITA to use, so I bought the pump as OP posted as well, much easier to use. all in all I probably lost about 25% of fluid between the sucker, spilling on the floor and just plain being messy.
I didn't let the car run yet as its still technically in winter mode. Today I had planned on letting the car run for about 30 mins as one of the GM directions have said and re-check the fluid. but from what I can tell its close to the 1/8 inch below the fill line... Wonder how "exact" it has to be?

[FSST_LAP]

Does anyone know if there is any harm to removing the transmission brace temporarily without holding the transmission in place with a jack. I ask this because I want to remove it to get to the oil drain plug of the transmission. as mentioned, multiple times in this thread, people remove it to reduce the mess of the fluid going every where. I want to remove it as well, but not sure if I need to hold the transmission up?

I know you should hold it up, but I want to know if I can just remove it for 30 minutes of so while I replace the fluid without any ill effects to the drive train.??

Thanks in advanced

[cwebster]

Originally Posted by oneredry

well I did perform the trans fluid exchange using the RP syncromax fluid as the OP posted. the process is a BITC* in my opinion. Then again I didn't have a rack to work with either. car was jack up about 4" inches with one rear tire slightly elevated as I could barley squeeze under the car. I ended up having a floor jack hold the trans in place while I removed the cross member. (a lot easier IMO to do it that way) used the large fluid sucker and it was a PITA to use, so I bought the pump as OP posted as well, much easier to use. all in all I probably lost about 25% of fluid between the sucker, spilling on the floor and just plain being messy.
I didn't let the car run yet as its still technically in winter mode. Today I had planned on letting the car run for about 30 mins as one of the GM directions have said and re-check the fluid. but from what I can tell its close to the 1/8 inch below the fill line... Wonder how "exact" it has to be?

That doesn't sound like fun at all... Do you have jack stands and a level place to raise the car? I'd try and jack up each corner and put jack stands under strong lift points. Be sure it's level! That should get you more room to work.

I think no matter how you do it it's going to be a little messy. The suction gun I linked helps a lot. You could use it to drain down a lot of the old fluid through the fill hole to minimize the volume coming out the drain. You can also use it after you refill to suck out enough to back off to 1/8" below fill hole - maybe just 1/2 to 3/4 of the flexible tube. I wouldn't worry about exact measurements. I used a bent piece of bailing wire to check if I was in the ballpark.

I'm getting ready to do this again soon. This time I'll try the method removing the cross-member and update with photos. I don't doubt it'll be cleaner. I'm just wondering how much more time & effort it takes. The self-help shop I use should have a suitable jack to use under the lift.

--Cal

[cwebster]

Originally Posted by FSST_LAP

Does anyone know if there is any harm to removing the transmission brace temporarily without holding the transmission in place with a jack. I ask this because I want to remove it to get to the oil drain plug of the transmission. as mentioned, multiple times in this thread, people remove it to reduce the mess of the fluid going every where. I want to remove it as well, but not sure if I need to hold the transmission up?

I know you should hold it up, but I want to know if I can just remove it for 30 minutes of so while I replace the fluid without any ill effects to the drive train.??

Thanks in advanced

I would not recommend removing the cross-member without supporting the tranny. At least wedge a 2x4 under it or something that's not going to slide out. I know it's bolted to the engine so there's little chance of it falling out but that's going to put a strain on both the motor mounts and drive shaft mounts.

--Cal

[JCunningham]

do not remove the trany mount with out the trany supported. There no way really of knowing what all will happen but most likely you will have alot of damage. That cross members supporting alot of weight that is going to drop a few inches. its keeping your engine and trany in its place.

[oneredry]

Originally Posted by JCunningham

do not remove the trany mount with out the trany supported. There no way really of knowing what all will happen but most likely you will have alot of damage. That cross members supporting alot of weight that is going to drop a few inches. its keeping your engine and trany in its place.

agreed. Now, when I did mine, I have always been super anal about this to begin with. So prior to removing the tranny mount I jacked the floor jack to the tranny just enough pressure that I thought would be fine when the tranny rested when I removed the brace. Upon removing the brace. I used hand tools so I slowly wrenched away to make sure there was no movement. There was not. I feel safe that I did a good job when it came to that point. my only concern was the level of the fluid.
I ended up starting the car and let it run for about 10 or so minutes. turned off (yes made sure it was level) cooled down for about 15. with a mirror I could see the fluid right where the threads where on the fill hole. so I used a fluid transfer sucked aprox 8-10ML (if I recall). Again, have not driven it.

[MatthewAMEL]

FYI - did a Redline fluid swap today.

Servicing this Tranny is a PITA.

I am using it as an excuse to get a ‘low profile’ ratchet, though. So there is that.

The fluid pump the OP linked to is completely worthless. The tubing is so thick, it won’t make the bend. I wound up using my $6 fluid pump (same one I use for diff).

Redline has really made a difference in shifting feel. Especially when cold.

[Th3Beast]

Originally Posted by MatthewAMEL

FYI - did a Redline fluid swap today.

Servicing this Tranny is a PITA.

I am using it as an excuse to get a ‘low profile’ ratchet, though. So there is that.

The fluid pump the OP linked to is completely worthless. The tubing is so thick, it won’t make the bend. I wound up using my $6 fluid pump (same one I use for diff).

Redline has really made a difference in shifting feel. Especially when cold.

Which Redline fluid did you use? I'm debating on using Redline or RP. Both probably similar right?

Good call on the low profile ratchet, I'll snag one of those prior to doing this.

I was planning on using this pump... http://a.co/aLxbJOj as it worked well for me for my diff fluid change.

[MatthewAMEL]

Originally Posted by Th3Beast

Which Redline fluid did you use? I'm debating on using Redline or RP. Both probably similar right?

Good call on the low profile ratchet, I'll snag one of those prior to doing this.

I was planning on using this pump... http://a.co/aLxbJOj as it worked well for me for my diff fluid change.

Redline D4.

Yes, my handy $6 fluid bottle pump saved the day. Kind of a chore to pump in 3.6 qts, but it worked.

[carguy55]

Don't know if using a non GM approved fluid would cause warranty issues or not. May have to change it to the GM stuff if you take your car in for tranny issues just to CYA.

[Pollock]

Originally Posted by carguy55

Don't know if using a non GM approved fluid would cause warranty issues or not. May have to change it to the GM stuff if you take your car in for tranny issues just to CYA.

Dont tell them and they will never know.