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Phastek Performance


View Poll Results: Should i Seperate Street & Drag Radial/Slicks?
Yes 12 92.31%
No 1 7.69%
Voters: 13. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 10-23-2017, 01:57 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Evil-Bee-NH View Post
I'll leave this poll up til Christmas at that time i'll go with whatever option won. This is just a general consensus question that popped into my head randomly and stayed there for some reason.
If you're looking for maximum traction and have the money, the answer is yes.

How many 4cyl drag cars run street tires in Class Drag Competition?

That should give you an idea.

With that being said, I'd set up an inspection interval to watch for axle twist and rear diff issues.

You're stepping into areas where parts aren't meant for repeated MAX Torque launches.

Like Mr T said, "Chit Breaks"
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Old 10-23-2017, 09:54 AM   #16
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Mr. T i think got what i was asking here. Clearly every SS owner who needs an opinion did not read the purpose of this thread and poll, though i do value your opinions and i also understand them because i did do my research this time before i made this thread. Let's please try to keep this closer to the original intention of this thread for the 2.0T drivers that race their cars.
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Old 10-23-2017, 11:49 AM   #17
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Honestly I think I'm the range of power most of us are making street tires are fine, as long as the track is prepped well
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Old 10-23-2017, 12:00 PM   #18
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Honestly I think I'm the range of power most of us are making street tires are fine, as long as the track is prepped well
My Bad. I didn't realize where I was.
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Old 10-23-2017, 12:41 PM   #19
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My Bad. I didn't realize where I was.
Happens all the time.
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Old 10-23-2017, 03:37 PM   #20
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Honestly I think I'm the range of power most of us are making street tires are fine, as long as the track is prepped well
Street tires are fine for a stock car if you don't launch it in boost. If you launch an auto over 3000RPM, you're gonna really wish you had a pair of drag radials. If anyone is even remotely serious about getting a good ET, drag radials are a MUST!

I'd think with the tiny rear brakes on the non-brembo cars that one would be able to run a 17 inch rim. 275/40/17 Nitto NT05R's are $189 from Jeg's, and I'm sure some cheap 17 inch rims could be had for under $200 a pair. So you'd be around $600 mounted/balanced for a pair of new drag radials that could take just about all the power and abuse you could throw at them. Sure beats burning up your tires you drive on daily!
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Old 10-24-2017, 07:33 AM   #21
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Street tires are fine for a stock car if you don't launch it in boost. If you launch an auto over 3000RPM, you're gonna really wish you had a pair of drag radials. If anyone is even remotely serious about getting a good ET, drag radials are a MUST!

I'd think with the tiny rear brakes on the non-brembo cars that one would be able to run a 17 inch rim. 275/40/17 Nitto NT05R's are $189 from Jeg's, and I'm sure some cheap 17 inch rims could be had for under $200 a pair. So you'd be around $600 mounted/balanced for a pair of new drag radials that could take just about all the power and abuse you could throw at them. Sure beats burning up your tires you drive on daily!
I can vouch for this! Even in 95 degree sweltering summer Kentucky heat and a drag strip that resembled molasses, I took TCS off and launched at 3500 and spun the SHIT out of my tires. Scared the hell out of me because I was getting ZERO wheel spin launching at 2k, where TCS limits boost build. If/when I put some more power down, I will certainly invest in those Nittos. I did not realize it would be that inexpensive for radials and 17s.
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Old 10-24-2017, 09:26 AM   #22
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I can vouch for this! Even in 95 degree sweltering summer Kentucky heat and a drag strip that resembled molasses, I took TCS off and launched at 3500 and spun the SHIT out of my tires. Scared the hell out of me because I was getting ZERO wheel spin launching at 2k, where TCS limits boost build. If/when I put some more power down, I will certainly invest in those Nittos. I did not realize it would be that inexpensive for radials and 17s.
Shouldn't you square up with same size wheels in the front as well or does that matter?
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Old 10-24-2017, 09:55 AM   #23
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Shouldn't you square up with same size wheels in the front as well or does that matter?
Doesn't matter in the least on a RWD vehicle. Look at any drag car, the fronts and rears are never the same size. Ideally you'd want to run skinnies in the front with a dedicated racing tire to decrease drag. You could run 26 inch rims in front, and 17's in back if you wanted to look like an idiot and create massive rolling resistance in the front.

I wouldn't recommend driving the NT05's on the street much, as they are absolutely terrible if you get caught in the rain, and they wear very rapidly on the street.
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Old 10-24-2017, 10:02 AM   #24
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Doesn't matter in the least on a RWD vehicle. Look at any drag car, the fronts and rears are never the same size. Ideally you'd want to run skinnies in the front with a dedicated racing tire to decrease drag. You could run 26 inch rims in front, and 17's in back if you wanted to look like an idiot and create massive rolling resistance in the front.

I wouldn't recommend driving the NT05's on the street much, as they are absolutely terrible if you get caught in the rain, and they wear very rapidly on the street.
So your saying i'm fine with leaving my 20's in the front? I'm asking because I do not know and would like good informed information I was looking into radials or slicks for next year.
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Old 10-24-2017, 02:59 PM   #25
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Your stock front 20's have an OD of 27.7" If you want to avoid possible stabilitrac/abs/shift point problems, you should consider something like a 305/45/17 -27.8 OD.
I believe it's {2?} fuses you can pull out at the track to avoid the stabi/abs problem. Not sure how much shift points will be affected by running the 275/40's, but they are a full 2" shorter than stock OD. They would yank you out of the hole though
This is great info that totally skipped my mind this morning! It's a non-issue for me because I have HPT and can change the tire size.
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Old 10-24-2017, 08:37 PM   #26
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Your stock front 20's have an OD of 27.7" If you want to avoid possible stabilitrac/abs/shift point problems, you should consider something like a 305/45/17 -27.8 OD.
I believe it's {2?} fuses you can pull out at the track to avoid the stabi/abs problem. Not sure how much shift points will be affected by running the 275/40's, but they are a full 2" shorter than stock OD. They would yank you out of the hole though

So your suggesting a rear 305/45/17 for drag radials/slicks if i'm keeping my 245/40/20's up front. I'm just making sure I understand everything your saying trying to go down that better route with dragstrip mods then just slapping things on and crossing my fingers.
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Old 10-24-2017, 11:12 PM   #27
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I see in your sig. that you are HPTuned, if your able to make the appropriate changes yourself, than go the cheapest route possible for track only changes. A 2" shorter tire will feel like a 373 gear swap, and will require tuning.
If you keeping the stock fronts, and don't want to tune, the 305/45/17's are a better fit.

To answer the second 1/2 of your post..If you want to go down the better route, I suggest you take some more time making a drag set up decision. You really should consider a big~skinny set-up like ChicagoTommy mentioned. Your already buying rears, fronts can be had cheap... Heck, even stock 18" would be better...We used to run GTO spares on the fronts ... If you do fronts and rears, YOU decide what OD tire you use.
FYI for anyone thinking about doing GTO spares!!!! YOU HAVE TO REPLACE THE TIRES!!! Any tech inspector with enough brain cells to rub together will boot you if you try to make a pass with spare tires! Replacement tires are CHEAP! Those spare tires are only rated to 55MPH!
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Old 10-24-2017, 11:22 PM   #28
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So your suggesting a rear 305/45/17 for drag radials/slicks if i'm keeping my 245/40/20's up front. I'm just making sure I understand everything your saying trying to go down that better route with dragstrip mods then just slapping things on and crossing my fingers.
I'm with Coop on this one, get skinnies if possible. Pushing those big heavy wide wheels down the track is going to hold you back. Easy way to pick up at least .2 in the quarter for another few hundred bucks. At this point you have all the mods besides an upgraded turbo and E85. If you REALLY wanna get drag oriented, the next thing I'd do after wheels is adjustable shocks. Going to QA1's on my 4th gens made a massive difference in the 60'.

I'm glad to see you're asking questions before just buying random parts and hoping! Hopefully the group knowledge will help you accomplish your goal! I've seen MANY MANY instances of random parts purchases over the years that do not net results. I've seen hundreds of 12 second heads/cam LS1's. It's not just parts, but combination optimization that drives results! A few of the RIGHT tweaks can make all the difference.
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