[legendary70]

thank you all. Damn sprinklers!!! lolol

[ember1205]

Soak a soft cloth with white vinegar. Lay the rag over the water spot area and leave it there for a short time (experiment to see what works... 30 seconds, a minute, etc.) then wipe away with a soft cloth and clean water. You may have to lightly rub the affected spot areas a bit, too.

Don't use a lot of pressure, go easy, soft cloths only... YMMV but if this works, it's a cheap and easy way out of it. Re-apply any sealants or waxes afterward, and do this in the shade so that the panels on the car are cool.

[jamala00]

Find a local reputable detailer... That is probably what I'd be doing. Then avoid the sprinklers... LOL

[BlackKnight2SS18]

Since you are asking this question... you are not going to have the experience or knowledge to tackle the removal alone.

Seek out a pro. Not Joe the Mobile Detail and Pressure Wash guy.

Find someone that knows exactly what they are doing. The acidic water + sun + direct heat has etched the clear coat and needs to be polished at the least... paint correction at the most with a light compound.

[zaimer]

It is fairly straight forward using one of the previously mentioned techniques.

OP - it looks as though you may have a wrapped hood. DO NOT use any sort of polish or compound on that vinyl. You WILL have shiny spots/streaks that cannot be removed if you do. The vinyl would need to be replaced with new.

[ember1205]

Originally Posted by BlackKnight2SS18

Since you are asking this question... you are not going to have the experience or knowledge to tackle the removal alone.

Seek out a pro. Not Joe the Mobile Detail and Pressure Wash guy.

Find someone that knows exactly what they are doing. The acidic water + sun + direct heat has etched the clear coat and needs to be polished at the least... paint correction at the most with a light compound.

Water spots are commonly from minerals like calcium carbonate which are considered "basic" and not "acidic" - this is why something acidic like white vinegar may help break them down.

If this just occurred, AND there's at least SOME sort of sealant or wax on the paint, the ability to remove yourself is quite good. Taking your time and being careful will cause no real harm and could save hundreds (if not thousands) of dollars compared to immediately "seeking out a pro." Besides, every "pro" out there started out as a total amateur.

[atx_traveler]

99% sure you will need to polish it out. good news it will only take a second and barely harm your clear coat. bad news is, your clear coat will have taken some damage.

[396ssrat]

I used to use lime away on my Boat for mineral spots. Spray it on in the shade wipe with a wet cloth and immediately rinse it off and dry. Then wax the hell out of your car so they (water spots) wont stick next time.

[m6-lt1]

I just had this happen. Do not waste your time with a water spot remover as they do not work on the level 2 (etched in clear coat) type of water spots. I wound up taking it to a detailer who actually talked me into doing the removal myself. I bought a DA (dual action polisher). It’s actually really hard to harm your clear coat with one so don’t be scared like I was lol.

1) wash your car (not in direct sunlight or when the surface is hot of course)
2) dry your car immediately
3) clay bar the panels with water spots. You’ll notice this will remove quite a bit of the stains. I was surprised it removed any but it will remove a decent amount
4) use a spray/ degreaser on the panels you clayed in order to prep your car for paint correction
5) compound the panels with the Da. There are plenty of videos for how to do this
6) polish the panels (always) after compounding them
7) wax the car for protection

My first time doing this I removed about 80% of the water spots. It was too my liking. I was not able to remove much of the little fine scratches in my paint that I could see under my garages lighting unfortunately. Quite honestly is was because I did not compound as much as I should have because I was terrified of hurting my clear the whole time. Going back if I do it again I will be more aggressive. It truly is difficult to burn through clear with a DA. You would basically have to burn through it on purpose.

Anyway don’t be scared to try this. I was and it came out fine. Next time I paint correct it should come out better than fine because I won’t be as scared. By the way this will take a pretty big chunk out of your time. I did it over the course of a few days because I wanted to paint correct my whole car.

[BlackKnight2SS18]

Originally Posted by ember1205

Water spots are commonly from minerals like calcium carbonate which are considered "basic" and not "acidic" - this is why something acidic like white vinegar may help break them down.

If this just occurred, AND there's at least SOME sort of sealant or wax on the paint, the ability to remove yourself is quite good. Taking your time and being careful will cause no real harm and could save hundreds (if not thousands) of dollars compared to immediately "seeking out a pro." Besides, every "pro" out there started out as a total amateur.

Completely disagree.

He might was well take some sandpaper and water with your advice and have at it.

OP: Do not do this. Find a pro detailer with lots of verifiable reviews and go from there. A brick and motor detailer is a safer bet as well.

[Pupilbone]

Originally Posted by Seventh Camaro

These products work well, but I have had excellent luck with a clay bar. Clay bars were sort of a detailers secret for many years, no you can find them at most auto parts stores. Mother's is the brand I see most often. Clay bar quickly removes tar, water spots, rail dust, etc.

Good luck.

Many suggestions here but a basic claybar IMO is the true detailer’s go to first step. Apply specialized product after breaking away what the clay will take.

BTW your car probably needs a full clay. Grab a microfibre and try to slide it across the hood or roof of your car. If it doesn’t slide off the other side - you need a clay, and this should be done at least every few years (for a garaged car). Don’t try your car first, but this isn’t difficult - just use lubricant (YouTube will help).

Follow up claying with a good wax (personal preference - they’ll mostly all do a good job).

I detail my cars myself, and clay them all once a year, when I park them for winter and cover them up. Start each season fresh!

[Chevelle vs Camaro]

Originally Posted by BlackKnight2SS18

Completely disagree.

He might was well take some sandpaper and water with your advice and have at it.

OP: Do not do this. Find a pro detailer with lots of verifiable reviews and go from there. A brick and motor detailer is a safer bet as well.

It’s not that serious. A good polish by hand should take care of it or better yet spend that money for the pro on a Griots G8 dual action polisher. You’ll be able to tackle those eater spots by yourself and polish your car up whenever in the future.

Don’t let this machine fool you. Watch a few videos. Make sure to keep machine moving and you’ll be good. Give her a good polish and LSP yearly and you’ll appreciate the paint more.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[shoe5163]

Soap and water, rinse and repeat until they are gone. This is what fixed mine. It usually takes 3 times.

[ember1205]

Originally Posted by BlackKnight2SS18

Completely disagree.

He might was well take some sandpaper and water with your advice and have at it.

OP: Do not do this. Find a pro detailer with lots of verifiable reviews and go from there. A brick and motor detailer is a safer bet as well.

You can disagree all you want. The reality is that you (and I) do not have any first-hand knowledge of the specifics. NOTHING that I have suggested will do any harm and your comment about taking sandpaper to the car being the same as what I suggested is straight-up asinine.