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#1 |
![]() Drives: 2012 45th anniversary edition 'vert Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 277
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Cost effective sound upgrade
Hey guys - i'm planning on upgrading my sound system with the goal of making it sound like that of bmw or lexus sound system. Nothing too crazy - don't need huge rumble or anything. i do listen to a variety of music from dance to rock to hip hop and pop - the whole gambit really.
i'm wondering what your thoughts are would be in terms of the most cost effective way of upgrading. I"m thinking switching the stock BA amp. Would there be any recommendations with regards to amp? how about for sub? and does it need its own designated amp or maybe best to get an amp that is powerful enough to power sub and all speakers? any other recommendations? if you could, to throw in links to website of equipment so that i can order direct. thanks everyone!
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MightyGrasshopper
www.mightygrasshopper.com Into health, wellness and fitness? Check out my site for natural health product reviews, health articles and industry news. Want to get into summer time shape? I'm a former fatty who's lost the weight - "Train With Me" for FREE - sexy abs in 16 weeks! Just follow along! |
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#2 |
Aural Assault Vehicle
Drives: 2010 IBM 2SS/RS, 2015 Sierra Denali Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Garner, NC
Posts: 792
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I would start by replacing the stock amp with the JL Audio XD600/6. Also, get some Dynamat, Focal BAM, or other sound deadening.
Amazon Crutchfield SonicElectronix When wiring up the XD600/6, disconnect the center channel up front. Channels 1 & 2 you run to your front component speakers. Channels 3 & 4 you run to your rear tweeters. Channels 5 & 6 you run to your rear woofers. The rear woofers can put out a decent amount of bass if the deck has proper sound deadening. This is a start, but I would highly recommend a processor (like the JBL MS-8) to go with the amp, but the project will really start to snowball once you put in a processor. The factory Boston speakers aren't that bad, but the stock amp is really terrible.
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#3 |
![]() Drives: '10 Camaro LS - M6 Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 550
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darkrider01,
Can you make a similar recommendation for people with non-BA systems? I'm undecided between adding an amp and: 1) replacing just the front speakers and adding a sub. 2) replacing front speakers and back but with no aub, hoping that better rear speakers will give me the bass I need. Also, the entire wiring difficulty and variety of harnesses has me overwhelmed - there seems to be no one clear guide on what should hook up to what. Thanks!
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#4 |
![]() Drives: Would only drive GM Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Southeast Kansas
Posts: 190
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I've always put sound deadener in the doors of my vehicles. Makes a big difference in speaker sound.
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#5 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2023 Black ZL1 Auto Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: FEMA Region 4
Posts: 2,935
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Will the XD600/6 fit on a ******** mounting board in the stock location? It's less expensive than the XD700/5.
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#6 | |
Aural Assault Vehicle
Drives: 2010 IBM 2SS/RS, 2015 Sierra Denali Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Garner, NC
Posts: 792
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Quote:
You would have to connect the amp to the front channels of the head unit, so you would need a Line Output Converter (LOC) for that. The more I think about it, you could do that pretty cheap (around $1K). Amp - $500 (Orion HCCA10004) LOC - $20 (any 2 channel will do) Sub - $130 (Orion XTRPRO104 10" for around $130) Sub Box - $40 (Basic 10" box from Sonic is $40 shipped) Front components - $140 (Infinity Reference 6030cs for around $140) Misc. Wiring - $100 Total: $930 Obviously the total is based on whether you do it yourself or take it to a shop. I'd bet that little system would sound awesome. Hope that helps!
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My amplifier pop/click/thump solution thread
Power Mods * K&N Typhoon CAI, Flowmaster American Thunder cat-back exhaust, Hurst Short Throw Shifter Exterior Mods * Black Phantom Grille * 22" T.I.S. 537MS wheels w/ Nitto INVO rubber * OEM body kit Suspension Mods * BC Racing Coilovers * Lakewood Strut Tower Brace Audio Mods * Stinger SPP 2250 Battery * Mosconi 6to8v8 w/ RCD * Pioneer AVH-X7500BT * Scosche Dash Kit * 2 - Mosconi AS200.4 * 2 - JL Audio 13W6v2 * Focal 165KRX2 Power (active) * Mosconi Gladen One 240.2 * Rockford Fosgate Power T1692 |
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#7 | |
Aural Assault Vehicle
Drives: 2010 IBM 2SS/RS, 2015 Sierra Denali Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Garner, NC
Posts: 792
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Quote:
__________________
My amplifier pop/click/thump solution thread
Power Mods * K&N Typhoon CAI, Flowmaster American Thunder cat-back exhaust, Hurst Short Throw Shifter Exterior Mods * Black Phantom Grille * 22" T.I.S. 537MS wheels w/ Nitto INVO rubber * OEM body kit Suspension Mods * BC Racing Coilovers * Lakewood Strut Tower Brace Audio Mods * Stinger SPP 2250 Battery * Mosconi 6to8v8 w/ RCD * Pioneer AVH-X7500BT * Scosche Dash Kit * 2 - Mosconi AS200.4 * 2 - JL Audio 13W6v2 * Focal 165KRX2 Power (active) * Mosconi Gladen One 240.2 * Rockford Fosgate Power T1692 |
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#8 |
![]() Drives: 2013 Inferno Orange Camaro 2SS Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 27
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Darkrider,
Do you recommend the JL Audio XD600/6 over the XD400/4? I was going to get the 400/4 for the amp replacement for BA speakers. I have a kicker zx750.1 I was going to power a single JL W3v3 with from my old car in a ******** stealth box. Do you know the RMS wattage of the BA speakers offhand? I'm worried these JL amps could blow them. |
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#9 | |
Aural Assault Vehicle
Drives: 2010 IBM 2SS/RS, 2015 Sierra Denali Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Garner, NC
Posts: 792
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Quote:
The reason I was suggesting the XD600/6 is because in the Boston system, the factory amp is 7 channels. You have front left and right (2), front center (1), rear right and left highs (2), and rear right and left lows/woofers (2). If you disconnect/discard the center channel, you would be connecting back 1 for 1. Does that make sense?
__________________
My amplifier pop/click/thump solution thread
Power Mods * K&N Typhoon CAI, Flowmaster American Thunder cat-back exhaust, Hurst Short Throw Shifter Exterior Mods * Black Phantom Grille * 22" T.I.S. 537MS wheels w/ Nitto INVO rubber * OEM body kit Suspension Mods * BC Racing Coilovers * Lakewood Strut Tower Brace Audio Mods * Stinger SPP 2250 Battery * Mosconi 6to8v8 w/ RCD * Pioneer AVH-X7500BT * Scosche Dash Kit * 2 - Mosconi AS200.4 * 2 - JL Audio 13W6v2 * Focal 165KRX2 Power (active) * Mosconi Gladen One 240.2 * Rockford Fosgate Power T1692 |
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#10 | |
![]() Drives: 2012 45th anniversary edition 'vert Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 277
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Cool - thanks! So no need for a sub! Cool.
With this amp, can it power a sub too or do I need a separate sub? Finally, are recommending dynamat if I use the stock woofers for base but not need dynamat if I have a stealthbox or similar setup? Quote:
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MightyGrasshopper
www.mightygrasshopper.com Into health, wellness and fitness? Check out my site for natural health product reviews, health articles and industry news. Want to get into summer time shape? I'm a former fatty who's lost the weight - "Train With Me" for FREE - sexy abs in 16 weeks! Just follow along! |
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#11 | |
![]() Drives: '10 Camaro LS - M6 Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 550
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Quote:
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#12 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2012 Camaro 2SS 45th Anniversary Ed Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,220
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Great info!! Thanks!
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#13 | |
Aural Assault Vehicle
Drives: 2010 IBM 2SS/RS, 2015 Sierra Denali Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Garner, NC
Posts: 792
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Quote:
Dynamat is never a bad idea. If you're looking for BMW-like performance, you're going to need to add Dynamat or BAM everywhere you can afford it. GM put very little sound deadening (almost none) in these cars, presumably to keep the weight down. If you went with a stealthbox and it was your primary source of sub bass, then you could possibly get away without any dynamat. However, with the sub being in the rear of the trunk, you'd probably have to have it turned up to get any effect from it. Once you start pumping more bass in your trunk, rattles almost always show up. Hell, they will probably show up anyway. The rear deck is only slightly thicker than an aluminum can.
__________________
My amplifier pop/click/thump solution thread
Power Mods * K&N Typhoon CAI, Flowmaster American Thunder cat-back exhaust, Hurst Short Throw Shifter Exterior Mods * Black Phantom Grille * 22" T.I.S. 537MS wheels w/ Nitto INVO rubber * OEM body kit Suspension Mods * BC Racing Coilovers * Lakewood Strut Tower Brace Audio Mods * Stinger SPP 2250 Battery * Mosconi 6to8v8 w/ RCD * Pioneer AVH-X7500BT * Scosche Dash Kit * 2 - Mosconi AS200.4 * 2 - JL Audio 13W6v2 * Focal 165KRX2 Power (active) * Mosconi Gladen One 240.2 * Rockford Fosgate Power T1692 |
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#14 |
![]() Drives: 2012 45th anniversary edition 'vert Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 277
|
Great feedback! I don't think it can get any more cost effective than just adding a better amp!
Now, next question - do I need that harness for the upgraded amp? Anything else?
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MightyGrasshopper
www.mightygrasshopper.com Into health, wellness and fitness? Check out my site for natural health product reviews, health articles and industry news. Want to get into summer time shape? I'm a former fatty who's lost the weight - "Train With Me" for FREE - sexy abs in 16 weeks! Just follow along! |
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