[MatthewAMEL]

Greetings, fellow track rats.

In the past, I have used Hawk pads on street and track. One of the benefits was no cleaning/bedding required when I would switch between pads after events.

On this car, I would like to use the OEM pad for street/autoX (to keep costs down) and the Hawk DTC-70 for track.

Do I need to 'de-glaze' the rotor after a track session? Or just re-bed the street pad?

Eventually, I'll get a set of Hawk street pads, but for now, I gotta keep an eye on costs.

Thanks.

[mbar]

Re-bedding the street pads after a track session might or might not work. You might get brake judder from hot spots on your rotor.
it's luck/coin toss.

[TheMaGikDucK]

you shouldn't randomly mix and match street and track pads from different brands without turning the rotors, you will get very bad shaking. I believe Ferrodo makes our stock pads, call them and see if they have a track pad that are compatible (I know you can normally mix and match their pads on the same rotor). Or go with G-Lock, their race and street pads can be mixed and matched on the same rotor.

[DFW1LE]

I would think a compromise street/track pad would make better sense than switching back and forth between street and track pads.

[Thor142]

I go back and forth between stock pads and race pads on the same rotor. Never had an issue. I don't re-bed the brembo pads after I take off the race pads and have zero issues. I do however Bring the race pads up to temp and make sure they don't need re-bedding before I hit the track with them. SO far they havent

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by DFW1LE

I would think a compromise street/track pad would make better sense than switching back and forth between street and track pads.

A true "compromise pad" might be a unicorn, certainly as far as the street duty side is concerned unless you can tolerate relatively heavy dusting, at least occasional squealing, and in some cases vastly increased rates of rotor wear.

Never mind that the higher up on the track pad tree you pick from, the weaker cold bite gets, with street stopping performance suffering as a result.


Norm

[DFW1LE]

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

A true "compromise pad" might be a unicorn, certainly as far as the street duty side is concerned unless you can tolerate relatively heavy dusting, at least occasional squealing, and in some cases vastly increased rates of rotor wear.

Never mind that the higher up on the track pad tree you pick from, the weaker cold bite gets, with street stopping performance suffering as a result.


Norm

If its for autox vs road courses with higher speeds, maybe not, unless you can't live with a little dust/squeal or you don't mind doing pad changes.

[TheMaGikDucK]

Really, for a novice driver the OEM pad is fine. However, if you plan on doing a few days a year, I recommend getting a second set of pads and rotors/a pad that is compatible. As you get faster and become a better driver, the OEM pads will wear very quickly and not be cost effective. I was able to eat the front pads in a single day instructing/expert group. Obviously that is extreme, but in the long run I would at a minimum be switching

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

A true "compromise pad" might be a unicorn, certainly as far as the street duty side is concerned unless you can tolerate relatively heavy dusting, at least occasional squealing, and in some cases vastly increased rates of rotor wear.

Never mind that the higher up on the track pad tree you pick from, the weaker cold bite gets, with street stopping performance suffering as a result.


Norm

Something like a Ferrodo DS1000 is actually an okay double duty pad for less experienced driver, but theres no such thing for track rats.

Originally Posted by Thor142

I go back and forth between stock pads and race pads on the same rotor. Never had an issue. I don't re-bed the brembo pads after I take off the race pads and have zero issues. I do however Bring the race pads up to temp and make sure they don't need re-bedding before I hit the track with them. SO far they havent

What pads specifically are you mixing and matching? Every serious track pad Ive heard of being mixed with a street pad of different basic compound makeup has caused juttering.

[Provoste]

Originally Posted by TheMaGikDucK

Really, for a novice driver the OEM pad is fine. However, if you plan on doing a few days a year, I recommend getting a second set of pads and rotors/a pad that is compatible. As you get faster and become a better driver, the OEM pads will wear very quickly and not be cost effective. I was able to eat the front pads in a single day instructing/expert group. Obviously that is extreme, but in the long run I would at a minimum be switching



Something like a Ferrodo DS1000 is actually an okay double duty pad for less experienced driver, but theres no such thing for track rats.



What pads specifically are you mixing and matching? Every serious track pad Ive heard of being mixed with a street pad of different basic compound makeup has caused juttering.

I've for 10+ years I've swapped in track pads in all my cars and interchange with stock pads, ive never ever had any issue. I've used Porterfield, Carbotech, Hawk, Pagid (mult different compounds) and multiple brands of street pads.

[MatthewAMEL]

Originally Posted by DFW1LE

I would think a compromise street/track pad would make better sense than switching back and forth between street and track pads.

This car is heavy and capable of generating such high speeds, I'm not considering a 'dual-purpose' pad.

I'll report back with observations.

Thanks, all.

[ggaites]

I used Raybestos ST43 pads for a few days before going to the track. Setting them to the rotor was done with very light use. The bite of these pads was phenomenal. Wished it felt like that all of the time!

I changed the fronts only, left the stock pads on the rear. The brakes never faded at all. I did get slight pulsing in the pedal, I thought I warped a rotor. But I haven't noticed it since leaving the track.

After putting in the race pads and flushing with Motul RF600 my brakes were so powerful with such light pressure, it was amazing. However I put the stock pads back in right before driving home from the track and everything seems fine. I just miss the power of the Raybestos pads.

My pedal does seem to still feel more firm after going back to stock, perhaps flushing with Motul RF600 helped with that.

The dust and the noise were both increased, but way tolerable. My rotors are already looking like they could use resurfacing after 7000 miles. Just figured the racing pads would accelerate the wear. I will put them back in before my next track day.

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by ggaites

The bite of these pads was phenomenal. Wished it felt like that all of the time!

Easy to get spoiled by that . . .


Norm

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

With wilwood pads on my 5th gen. I went from bp-10 and bp-20 street pads. Then on track days or autox, I switched to the polymatrix E pads at the track. Then before I drove home, popped back in the pad wear spacers and pads and never had any issues.

Unless I had alot of pads transfer to the rotor, or had to get home quick, I never had any issies. To be honest, I drove on the polymatrix E pads a few weeks cause I was too lazy to change. Outside of how loud those pads are, and the amazing braking compound. No issues at all.

[Thor142]

Originally Posted by TheMaGikDucK

Really, for a novice driver the OEM pad is fine. However, if you plan on doing a few days a year, I recommend getting a second set of pads and rotors/a pad that is compatible. As you get faster and become a better driver, the OEM pads will wear very quickly and not be cost effective. I was able to eat the front pads in a single day instructing/expert group. Obviously that is extreme, but in the long run I would at a minimum be switching



Something like a Ferrodo DS1000 is actually an okay double duty pad for less experienced driver, but theres no such thing for track rats.



What pads specifically are you mixing and matching? Every serious track pad Ive heard of being mixed with a street pad of different basic compound makeup has caused juttering.

Power stop track day pads. Stock rotors. Switching back to stock pads after. No jitters jutters shimmies shakes or otherwise. The track day pads are a true track pads with performance peaking when hot. I always re-bed new track pads but never bother when going back to stock. Been through a few sets on the same rotor. This is track duty too. Not autox