[red70tvhs]

Hey guys! I'm still relatively new to the LT series and I'm trying to learn all I can. I'm not looking to break records with this thing. My end goal is a fun, reliable street car that casually runs 10s without gutting it on pump gas (93) as e isn't readily available here. So no crazy boost numbers.

My current ideas are
2" headers back to the stock NPP
Blower cam (a bit stronger than mild but not completely wild)
Whipple/procharger

My questions are where does the stock lt1 fuel system run out? Is the stock system capable of hitting my goals safely or am I going to need to upgrade to the Lt4 system.

Drop in pistons and rods. I'm about reliability but as long as I have a good tune and conservative boost, should I be alright with the stock junk? I've read conflicting stuff.

The car won't be a daily driver at all. I've only put 1000 miles on it since January. I'll also be picking up a dragpack, driveshaft, axles, and clutch to handle the launches at the track.

What's everybody experienced? Is there anybody else that wants just enough to have some fun with driving around and at the track vs going all out racecar?

I've already got the ARH long system sitting here waiting for me to install it. If I go procharger, ill be picking up a ported msd. If whipple, I'll be getting a rotofab to replace the gm performance intake.

Thanks for the advice and help!

[laynlo15]

You should take a look at the Magnuson 2650 also. Don't limit yourself to just two options. Right now its making serious hp and you'll see the very low intake temps and the fastest Gen6 is running a 2650 Magnuson Heartbreaker.

[Puddin]

If your going to do a PD blower id use the Magnuson 2650. If you decide to do the Procharger I wouldn't waste the money on a ported MSD and just upgrade the fuel system with the money saved. Either way do the fuel system or else your not going above 600hp.

[KingLT1]

The Whipple or either Maggie(2300/2650) will run 10's with a set of drag radials and a custom tune on the entry level setup. So you don't really need to do a lot to get there. You can even squeak by on the stock fuel system for 7psi and pump gas. I personally would still do the LT4 fueling which will give you some fuel headroom and overall make the system more reliable opposed to running right on edge. I don't see a issue with longevity of a SLB LT1 until you get up into the 7xx whp range. Cleetus C7 made it 30k miles on a SBE LT1 @ 850whp with a F1a. That doesn't mean I think they all will handle that, but there are some out there making big numbers and handling it.

If you plan on doing rods/pistons/cam/fuel system and turning it up to 15+ psi, then yes the 2650 has some advantages for sure. Otherwise the 2300 or 2.9 will work just fine.

I run a Whipple currently pushing 9psi and my MAT's are pretty low which is to be expected with lower boost. The main thing is getting all the air out of the system. Mine went from 110 degree temps on a 40 degree day, to 100 degree temps on a 75 degree day. I have been pretty happy with the setup. Car runs mid 10's on the street with a 20" DR.

If you want to drag race, then build a dedicated car. I wouldn't take my nice weekend car and turn it into a race car. jmo

[laynlo15]

I'd do a Whipple like King has before the Procharger. If you go PC and want to drag race your going to need a stall converter. They are turds until 2500 rpms and then they'll start making power from there and that's another 1300.00 plus labor to pull the tranny.
I ran 9.83@141 with the 2300 so it can make plenty of power to go fast as the Whipple can.

[red70tvhs]

Thanks for the info guys! I've looked at the Maggie and gave it consideration, the whipple looks so good under the hood though with that red finish. I suppose the lt4 fuel system is a must if I throw in a camshaft. With what you guys have experienced that should put me where I wanna be with some room to spare. Then if the sbe gets tired, I can forge it and up the cubes later on! This is a weekend car that I can beat on a few times a year at the strip.

[red70tvhs]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

I'd do a Whipple like King has before the Procharger. If you go PC and want to drag race your going to need a stall converter. They are turds until 2500 rpms and then they'll start making power from there and that's another 1300.00 plus labor to pull the tranny.
I ran 9.83@141 with the 2300 so it can make plenty of power to go fast as the Whipple can.

I'll need a clutch This car is all about fun and and an auto just doesn't do it for me. A few tenths at best is negligible to me when compared to the fun factor of rowing gears.

[wnta1ss]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

The Whipple or either Maggie(2300/2650) will run 10's with a set of drag radials and a custom tune on the entry level setup. So you don't really need to do a lot to get there.

With an auto trans like KingLT1 was probably assuming, I will add that other entry-level setups like ECS, Procharger, etc also could run in the 10s. My ECS/Paxton with the base pullies and a stock torque converter ran 10.92 on a hot day for example. The SS autos don't have the computer bog that the M6 does, so it's easier to run the ETs when you don't have that going on. With your M6, you will need to find a tuner that can fix the bog (most don't seem to) or you will likely be disappointed with a blower on the dragstrip. The bog pulls power in 1st gear, have watched an M6/Magnuson 2300 launch on drag radials and I could see it happen.

[laynlo15]

Hp tuners working on a fix for that and its well know on the HP Tuner forms as I know several guys had this problem. I don't know if that's been resolved or not.

[L78toLT1]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

Hp tuners working on a fix for that and its well know on the HP Tuner forms as I know several guys had this problem. I don't know if that's been resolved or not.

Assuming you're buying new, what's the price difference between the 2300 maggie, Whipple and 2650 maggie? Unless you're on a very tight budget, I'd go with the current state of the art which is certainly the 2650, maggie or Edelbrock.
2300 maggie or Whipple are fine, and I'm perfectly satisfied with my 2300 but i certainly would have gone 2650 if it had been available at the time.

[red70tvhs]

Originally Posted by wnta1ss

With an auto trans like KingLT1 was probably assuming, I will add that other entry-level setups like ECS, Procharger, etc also could run in the 10s. My ECS/Paxton with the base pullies and a stock torque converter ran 10.92 on a hot day for example. The SS autos don't have the computer bog that the M6 does, so it's easier to run the ETs when you don't have that going on. With your M6, you will need to find a tuner that can fix the bog (most don't seem to) or you will likely be disappointed with a blower on the dragstrip. The bog pulls power in 1st gear, have watched an M6/Magnuson 2300 launch on drag radials and I could see it happen.

I always overcame bog with gears and a high rpm clutch dump. Gears doesn't seem to be an option with these cars and I don't think a clutch dump with a roots blower would lend itself well to traction. Ill be hitting the track on bias plys. I'm undecided if I want to go ahead and do the 15" conversion or not. I'm afraid if I do, I'll go all racecar and defeat my own goals. The 15" would give me much better slick options, though. Other than a mostly stock lnf cobalt, this will be my first car with boost. I've always played with N/A, so launching the car after the blower will deff be a fun challenge! I'm excited.

Edit: I'm guessing you mean something in the predicted torque junk in the programming causes it to cut power. A friend of mine was explaining it to me a bit the other day and how everything is getting so complicated he doesn't really want to fool with anything new anymore. I know about the pull in timing on no lift shift, so that needs to be turned off as well. These new ECMs are a pain. So many nannies.

[wnta1ss]

Originally Posted by red70tvhs

I always overcame bog with gears and a high rpm clutch dump. Gears doesn't seem to be an option with these cars and I don't think a clutch dump with a roots blower would lend itself well to traction. Ill be hitting the track on bias plys. I'm undecided if I want to go ahead and do the 15" conversion or not. I'm afraid if I do, I'll go all racecar and defeat my own goals. The 15" would give me much better slick options, though. Other than a mostly stock lnf cobalt, this will be my first car with boost. I've always played with N/A, so launching the car after the blower will deff be a fun challenge! I'm excited.

Edit: I'm guessing you mean something in the predicted torque junk in the programming causes it to cut power. A friend of mine was explaining it to me a bit the other day and how everything is getting so complicated he doesn't really want to fool with anything new anymore. I know about the pull in timing on no lift shift, so that needs to be turned off as well. These new ECMs are a pain. So many nannies.

Yes, it seems that the computer is the cause of the M6 bog. What I'm talking about was not exactly at the clutch hit, when he engaged the clutch, the car started moving, then it kind of fell on it's face in 1st gear. Noticeable hitch in the getup.

[EDFHOBBIES]

Originally Posted by wnta1ss

Yes, it seems that the computer is the cause of the M6 bog. What I'm talking about was not exactly at the clutch hit, when he engaged the clutch, the car started moving, then it kind of fell on it's face in 1st gear. Noticeable hitch in the getup.

Once its gone and tuned out the car is fun to drive again..

[DorkMissile]

Most of the guys here are going to steer you towards a PD blower - but in the manual cars I think the centrifugal is very viable. Im not going to debate about it other than the power comes on a lot more linear, especially if you are doing a cam and drop in pistons with lower CR.

If you lower the compression you could step into a F1 hear unit and run 15lbs no problem as long as you can keep it fed (should consider a low side fuel system and LT4 injectors and HPFP)

I ran 9sih lbs on E85 with the stock cam and compression last year and the power really hit hard at 4000rpm. Even with 555R tires I could spin in second 70' out at the track.

Thru the winter I did internals (lowered CR to 10.5:1) and cammed the car out some (BTR Stg2) and pulleyd the car up 4lbs and it is making a lot more power everywhere (the boost comes in lower) but it is way more linear in power delivery now.

I haven't been to the track this year yet, but I struggled last year to get under 2 sec in 60' (car would still run 10.9s). I would imagine it will be .2 quicker at least out of the hole.