[Lerch98]

My 2017 2SS M6 sat for 5 weeks and fired right up. (Cold start sounds bad ass).
Also, I never use the Parking brake in the garage. I just put it in gear. I don't know if this is an issue with battery drain as it as an electric parking brake.

But when in storage I use that Camaro battery tender. It works really well. I connect it up for a week every month or so.
I would definitely recommend this battery tender as it works very well. I am a electronics tech by trade so this electric #### is down my alley.

As for the poster whose battery is dead after a week, I would measure the parasitic drain from the battery when parked and car off. You will need to disconnect a battery terminal (the neg will work) and insert an ammeter and see what the drain is. As I was taught it should be less than 100 milliamps. But I have never done this on my Camaro (at least not yet) but did this measurement on other cars with issues of battery drain. (interesting stuff found).
Also there are hall effect current meters, but you will need one with significant sensitivity to measure 100 mA or less.
And yes, some batteries are defective and have an internal drain them selves. I believe that somebody posted that their battery was changed under warentee.
As for Dealerships, mechanics and electronics....Good luck. If you can find a dealer with a mechanic who is good with this stuff he (or she) is worth his weight in Platinum. And tell us so we can go there too.

[AmericanMike]

Originally Posted by Gunkk

There’s a keyhole on the top of the back seat to pop the trunk.

See:
http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showpo...03&postcount=5

yes used it once before. Not that urgent to swap the bulbs so easier to just jump it then take care of them. Thanks for the suggestion.

[AmericanMike]

Originally Posted by Lerch98

My 2017 2SS M6 sat for 5 weeks and fired right up. (Cold start sounds bad ass).
Also, I never use the Parking brake in the garage. I just put it in gear. I don't know if this is an issue with battery drain as it as an electric parking brake.

But when in storage I use that Camaro battery tender. It works really well. I connect it up for a week every month or so.
I would definitely recommend this battery tender as it works very well. I am a electronics tech by trade so this electric #### is down my alley.

As for the poster whose battery is dead after a week, I would measure the parasitic drain from the battery when parked and car off. You will need to disconnect a battery terminal (the neg will work) and insert an ammeter and see what the drain is. As I was taught it should be less than 100 milliamps. But I have never done this on my Camaro (at least not yet) but did this measurement on other cars with issues of battery drain. (interesting stuff found).
Also there are hall effect current meters, but you will need one with significant sensitivity to measure 100 mA or less.
And yes, some batteries are defective and have an internal drain them selves. I believe that somebody posted that their battery was changed under warentee.
As for Dealerships, mechanics and electronics....Good luck. If you can find a dealer with a mechanic who is good with this stuff he (or she) is worth his weight in Platinum. And tell us so we can go there too.

My dealer here in NC has been stellar. I'll be passing this problem over to them on Monday. I'll have a loaner in my possession as hostage until they get it fixed.

[AmericanMike]

Originally Posted by JeffFox

OP,

If the battery is dead and you open the car door I assume the window will not "index"(ie lower itself by an inch or so when you pull on the door handle). I also own a vert and wonder if this would cause the door to stick shut, the window to pull out part of top or even cause the window to break. Wha happened with yours?

yes the window does not index. I can open the door fairly easily but I don't close the door the whole way because the window will not clear and would really stress it.

Two weeks ago when I had the issue, as soon as the jumpers are connected the car comes to life and the window comes down even before its started.

[JeffFox]

Originally Posted by AmericanMike

yes the window does not index. I can open the door fairly easily but I don't close the door the whole way because the window will not clear and would really stress it.

Two weeks ago when I had the issue, as soon as the jumpers are connected the car comes to life and the window comes down even before its started.

Great info -thanks for sharing

[Memphis SS]

Originally Posted by thomaswatk

I'm glad I'm not the only one with dead battery problems. My car could sit for a month or more with no problem. A couple of weeks ago I tried to start it after sitting for 10 days, and it was completely dead. After charging it, I took it to the dealer who said they could find nothing wrong and said to watch it and see what happens. ( it's a 2016 SS ) They said I could get free towing under warranty so no problem. I guess losing all the time and the inconvenience caused by "nothing wrong" doesn't enter their minds. I can't see having to use a battery tender all the time. Not much place to plug one in if you're in a motel attending meetings for a few days............

Well, I would hope after a few days it would start big diff between a month a few days..

A week should be fine, a month you need to put a tender on it.

[Memphis SS]

Originally Posted by AmericanMike

Had it jump started and then planned on taking it out for a ride to charge it up. Got in it and realized the dash display was messed up. Wish I took a picture but my performance option was gone. My MODE button wouldn't work. Then I noticed something I never thought I would see. At the very top of my DIC options was a green leaf and the word HYBRID. I threw up in my mouth a little.

Took it to the dealer. They saw it as well. As soon as the tech put the scanner on it the display came back to normal. I'm not liking this at all.

Service Manager tried to tell me 2 weeks is about what to expect. I laughed and said I'll go home and if it happens again we'll have a different conversation.

Mike,

I've owned Corvettes and Camaros for 20 years plus that I take to car shows and cars & coffee that spend a lot of weeks just setting until the next event. I use a product from Battery Butler that works great. I would recommend getting one, it is only about $20.00.

Part # BBFC100 (12 Volt) - $17

[keon718nyc]

Originally Posted by AmericanMike

Well....another Friday and another dead battery. Not quite two weeks ago I had the problem. Today I bought a battery tender on sale at Costco and thought I would install it but realized the car was dead when I opened the door. ugh. Tomorrow I'll call roadside assistance for another boost after I install the cables under the hood.

Any chance my LED backup lights with a resistor attached is draining this thing? That is the only rogue mod I have done.

I think it just may be this for some, i had the resistors on my back up bulbs and to be honest i think i can now blame that as both times my battery went dead they were hooked up and there was no bleeding leds either, i didn't think it was that at first and still might not be the issue but after i put the stock ones back i had no more dead battery problems... Give it a try and remove the resistors/led's and see from that point if the battery goes dead again. I hate to even blame this as the mod was passed onto me and even had a thread on how to DIY reverse leds. Maybe should have went the harness and not the cheap route with the resistors, Kicking myself in the ass here.

[AmericanMike]

Originally Posted by keon718nyc

I think it just may be this for some, i had the resistors on my back up bulbs and to be honest i think i can now blame that as both times my battery went dead they were hooked up and there was no bleeding leds either, i didn't think it was that at first and still might not be the issue but after i put the stock ones back i had no more dead battery problems... Give it a try and remove the resistors/led's and see from that point if the battery goes dead again. I hate to even blame this as the mod was passed onto me and even had a thread on how to DIY reverse leds. Maybe should have went the harness and not the cheap route with the resistors, Kicking myself in the ass here.

hey keon718nyc, no finger pointing from here. I was more than happy you sent the resistors and loved the look. I did pull the bulbs yesterday so we'll see what's going to happen. Where I'm baffled is that I thought there were electronics installed to cut off power to things to give the battery enough power to crank the engine.

It was a real challenge getting the beast started. Put the heavy duty cables on it and it just groaned. It was a real fight to get enough juice to get the thing to crank but when it did it fired right up.

Now have installed the battery tender cables under the hood and have things hooked up. Its been charging over 12 hours and now indicates its over 80% and still going.

Heading to the dealer in the morning since it's thrown a code and the check engine light is on.

[AmericanMike]

Just got back from 90+ minutes at the dealer. Battery checks out under load. Doesn't seem to be an excessive draw. I wish I measured the draw with the LED's in place. So now the car sits and we'll see in a week.

[danhr]

Bump to see if there was any resolution.... mine just started doing this

[Nitefall17]

I use the 400
https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/battery-charger.

[danhr]

I was mostly addressing the messed up dash and not having mode select anymore.

Figured out on my own.... drive it for a few miles and a few key cycles, and it no longer has the hybrid/pickup truck dash.

[c4racer]

Mine died too. Two years old and 9K miles so obviously sits more than it’s driven.
I had voltage issues with my Porsche too and dealer recommended a battery tender. Neither car is driven daily but both are driven several times a week normally.
Anyway I picked up a griots garage smart charger and using it on both cars at least one charge a week to keep the batteries topped off. So far so good on both cars.